Phase1 172 - Advice on buying

[the grumpy one]

right, im going to look at a 172 this weekend...

it is on 82k & is a 2001 model.

i know the basics of buying a car...but want to know what to look out for with phase 1s.

obviously know the basics, sevice history, check when the timing belt was changed, check all paperwork ect

but would there be anything that a newbie owner/buyer could miss.

please let me know as im gagging to do some tri-poding as my miss's wont let me do it in her 172 cup lol

cheers for reading

 

[Russ_16v]

There is a buying guide matey als ocheck out the search function

 

[the grumpy one]

my bad lol

 

[Daniel]

Whats your budget?

I've got a minter going to be up for sale tomorrow.

 

[Russ_16v]

there is just a million buying buying guides matey, doesn't matter if its the 182 either the basics are the same

 

[the grumpy one]

there is just a million buying buying guides matey, doesn't matter if its the 182 either the basics are the same

i know, but being the older car...there might be lil teething problems that renault had sorted when the brought out the facelifts...

so i wanted to know if there were any glitches like that.

Whats your budget?

I've got a minter going to be up for sale tomorrow.

£2000ish

 

[Whisker biscuit]

Whats your budget?

I've got a minter going to be up for sale tomorrow.

Milage ? Colour ? Price ? Please

 

[Daniel]

Milage ? Colour ? Price ?

There will be a for sale thread. Its a bit special.

 

[Russ_16v]

nothing different than the rest really matey, apart from throttle sticking, which can be a few things, mostly the spring on the throttle body

 

[the grumpy one]

nothing different than the rest really matey, apart from throttle sticking, which can be a few things, mostly the spring on the throttle body

how could i check this...

 

[Russ_16v]

if it idles fine then nothing to worry about mate

 

[the grumpy one]

lol...so basic, but i wouldnt have known...lol

anything else...rust, maybe?

 

[Chrisjk]

if it idles fine then nothing to worry about mate

If it idles fine it must be one of a kind

Generally there a little ruff on idle, not too bad, if the air bag/serv light is on its usually the connectors under the seat, check the rear discs as they aren't cheap. Belt changes and proof its been well looked after with regular services is something to aim for.
The rear arches near the side skirt can show surface rust so check that, easily fixed though.

 

[the grumpy one]

If it idles fine it must be one of a kind

Generally there a little ruff on idle, not too bad, if the air bag/serv light is on its usually the connectors under the seat, check the rear discs as they aren't cheap. Belt changes and proof its been well looked after with regular services is something to aim for.
The rear arches near the side skirt can show surface rust so check that, easily fixed though.

ill hope its the conectors under the seat...lol

as for the rear discs...expensive as in labour or the actual discs?

 

[Russ_16v]

lol...so basic, but i wouldnt have known...lol

anything else...rust, maybe?

the only time it should have rust mate is either accident damage or its been parked in the sea lol

mines on 129,000 miles and doesnt have a spot of it

 

[Russ_16v]

discs are expensive as the ABS rings usually come with them, same as wheel bearings

 

[Chrisjk]

Parts, over £100 for a set of rear discs, not mega money but enough to sting the wallet.

 

[the grumpy one]

ok then thats cool then lol

------------------------

i work in a motor factors lol, so should get them cheaper than that...

------------------------

will also look for rust by the rear arches by the skirt

 

[Chrisjk]

Clunky gear changes could be worn mounts.

 

[The Chubby Pirate]

Make sure its cold when you get there, a warmed up car hides potential engine faults.

Make sure the idle isnt all over the place and constantly hunting. Also check the oil level and make sure its golden brown and not black as two in the morning.

Fsh a must with these, if its been cherished itll run forever, Russ's is a prime example to this!

 

[Russ_16v]

Make sure its cold when you get there, a warmed up car hides potential engine faults.

Make sure the idle isnt all over the place and constantly hunting. Also check the oil level and make sure its golden brown and not black as two in the morning.

Fsh a must with these, if its been cherished itll run forever, Russ's is a prime example to this!

i love you more and more every day xx

 

[The Chubby Pirate]

i love you more and more every day xx

loller

Some boy tbh x

 

[.GAZ.]

Make sure its cold when you get there, a warmed up car hides potential engine faults.

Make sure the idle isnt all over the place and constantly hunting. Also check the oil level and make sure its golden brown and not black as two in the morning.

Fsh a must with these, if its been cherished itll run forever, Russ's is a prime example to this!

Mines has nice golden brown oil

 

[Russ_16v]

loller

Some boy tbh x

 

[the grumpy one]

thanks for all the advice gays/guys (taking note from the gay posts) for your advice.....

lets hope its a gud'en

 

[Alex_X93]

As above and check ph1 buying guide out, theres few little nigglies to look for that can all add up.

 

[mag1caltrev0r]

To the OP, if you're seriously looking to spend £2k on one then £10 on membership will gain you access to the members areas and the buyers guides. It will be worth it as you'll get the full buyers guide which could potentially save you a packet.

 

[Crazychick]

discs are expensive as the ABS rings usually come with them, same as wheel bearings

Hi, sorry to crash a post but mine look like they have been done but how much we talking if I wanted to change them for something half decent? Its a phase 1 172.

thanks... and how expensive is expensive?

 

[Russ_16v]

for the rear discs supplied and fitted is circa £200, maybe a lil more depending on what garage you go to

 

[Crazychick]

I would fit them myself... so just need supplied.. although may see what the suppliers in derby have them priced up at.. was just curious..

 

[the grumpy one]

just go to your local motor factors...

on standard parts i use QH products