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Quick question on bleeding coolant system
- Thread starter ClioRN
- Start date
MicKPM
ClioSport Trader
Clio16v/Zoe Z.E.50
In truth, the position of the heater controls makes no difference on a Renault as there is no thermostatic valve as found on some Fords and Vauxhalls for example.
Open the bleed point, slowly fill the reservoir until air free coolant can be seen pouring from the hole and then replace the bolt. Adjust the coolant level and then start the car and allow it to idle of a few seconds. Replace the cap to the reservoir and then jump in the car, then bring the revs to a stable 2-2.5krpm and hold it there until the temp gauge reads normal.
You may want the heater on full hot as I like to feel the car come up to temp but what you really should be looking for is the temp gauge needle doing a merry dance. It should come up gradually with no jumping. If anything is wrong, the heater will stop blowing hit air first, this is why I like it to blow hot air to as a good indicator of how things are going.
Mick
Open the bleed point, slowly fill the reservoir until air free coolant can be seen pouring from the hole and then replace the bolt. Adjust the coolant level and then start the car and allow it to idle of a few seconds. Replace the cap to the reservoir and then jump in the car, then bring the revs to a stable 2-2.5krpm and hold it there until the temp gauge reads normal.
You may want the heater on full hot as I like to feel the car come up to temp but what you really should be looking for is the temp gauge needle doing a merry dance. It should come up gradually with no jumping. If anything is wrong, the heater will stop blowing hit air first, this is why I like it to blow hot air to as a good indicator of how things are going.
Mick
Bit of a fail....
So My plan today was to change the thermostat and temp sensor as for a while the heater was only blowing cold and the temperature guage was showing that the car was not getting up to temperature. then a few days ago the temperature needle didn't move from the bottom that's why i was changing the sensor.
well i got the thermostat changed but i couldnt find the right sized socket to remove the sensor so i left that for another day. so i refilled the tank bled the thermostat and started the car for about 5 mins then put the rad cap on and ran it for 10mins at 2500rpm but the heaters never got hot. the rad fan kicked in after i stop revving it .
so i was wondering if the bad coolant sensor is causing the heater to still blow cold or do i likely have a bad heater matrix? im going to get a socket later and change the sensor at the weekend
Thanks
One last thing when i put the old thermostat in a bucket of warm water it exploded lol
So My plan today was to change the thermostat and temp sensor as for a while the heater was only blowing cold and the temperature guage was showing that the car was not getting up to temperature. then a few days ago the temperature needle didn't move from the bottom that's why i was changing the sensor.
well i got the thermostat changed but i couldnt find the right sized socket to remove the sensor so i left that for another day. so i refilled the tank bled the thermostat and started the car for about 5 mins then put the rad cap on and ran it for 10mins at 2500rpm but the heaters never got hot. the rad fan kicked in after i stop revving it .
so i was wondering if the bad coolant sensor is causing the heater to still blow cold or do i likely have a bad heater matrix? im going to get a socket later and change the sensor at the weekend
Thanks
One last thing when i put the old thermostat in a bucket of warm water it exploded lol
oo: