Rear engine mount

[squireb22]

Looking to replace the rear engine mount/ dog leg bottom mount.

2 questions

1. How do you modify the original one to be more supporting and not get wobbly beyond silicone in the gaps.

2. The one for the automatic gearbox looks way more stable, will it fit manual cars?

 

[Mr Underhill]

What car/model?

 

[squireb22]

What car/model?

The standard 1.2 mk2 clio

 

[TheBandit]

From my experience three options:

1. Buy genuine, rubber lasts way longer and stays tougher. I had an aftermarket (maybe Febi) break on me after two years. When braking the engine would shift forward meaning I lost reverse, 1st and 2nd... That was a fun drive back from work

2. Buy a cheap one every year and not care

3. Take the mount and remove the factory rubber to pour your own polybushes, as nobody sells a kit. You could fill it full of tiger seal if you want but it wont be the same

 

[squireb22]

From my experience three options:

1. Buy genuine, rubber lasts way longer and stays tougher. I had an aftermarket (maybe Febi) break on me after two years. When braking the engine would shift forward meaning I lost reverse, 1st and 2nd... That was a fun drive back from work

2. Buy a cheap one every year and not care

3. Take the mount and remove the factory rubber to pour your own polybushes, as nobody sells a kit. You could fill it full of tiger seal if you want but it wont be the same

I'm tempted to do my own poly job on it. Do you just make sure the bolt hole is centred and pour around it? It's not a moving part so I can't see why ya can't just do that.

 

[Martin_172]

The powerflex bushes completely solve the issue with excess movement but add in all the vibration that the rubber is there to solve.
Never tried the silicon method but it may be a good half way house.

As above genuine replacement is a good solution but IMO it's worth doing at the same time as the other 2 as well or you won't eliminate all movement.

Not sure if the 4th gearbox to subframe mount from the 172 will fit the JB1 but that's a good solution if it does, I fitted it to a JB3 with no issues

 

[squireb22]

The powerflex bushes completely solve the issue with excess movement but add in all the vibration that the rubber is there to solve.
Never tried the silicon method but it may be a good half way house.

As above genuine replacement is a good solution but IMO it's worth doing at the same time as the other 2 as well or you won't eliminate all movement.

Not sure if the 4th gearbox to subframe mount from the 172 will fit the JB1 but that's a good solution if it does, I fitted it to a JB3 with no issues

Well I've got a standard 1.2 so powerflex and front gearbox mount aren't applicable. It's not got too much movement in it, but always best to play it safe. Will get new top mount as well.

 

[TheBandit]

Well I've got a standard 1.2 so powerflex and front gearbox mount aren't applicable. It's not got too much movement in it, but always best to play it safe. Will get new top mount as well.

Would recommend genuine again. Aftermarket split after two years and leaked the gel-bush-fluid stuff inside. Genuine been on their three years and still doing a great job. (assuming its one of these)

And for the rear engine mount in principle yes, the bolt hole is offset so as long as you take measurements and replicate fitment it should work

All new mounts will tighten the engine position up but the gearstick will still be wobbly AF. I run a scenic shifter + Stiff Shift 1.0 which reduced most of it without going overboard - depending on what you are trying to solve by stiffening up the mounts

 

[Martin_172]

Well I've got a standard 1.2 so powerflex and front gearbox mount aren't applicable. It's not got too much movement in it, but always best to play it safe. Will get new top mount as well.

Just use the 172 mount with the powerflex bushes they are the same fitment. Later ones had them as standard