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easyily done, just need perserverance.
R35 GTR
thats why I have removed plenum today.lol. I'm giving myself a week to do it, studs should turn up by next weekend, then another week to refit.
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
it seems like you have a lot of trouble with this car? :S
piss easy mate, remove the manifold with the turbo attached.
you'll need an extension bar and a wobble socket.
you'll need an extension bar and a wobble socket.
R35 GTR
The problems are annoying things like exhaust rattles and studs breaking. Could cost hundreds to replace about £20 worth of parts so I'm doing it all myself.
Another one is a coolant pipe has been damaged, I only assume it was done by the last people I let near the car.
It's only silly little things apart from me having to get the car remapped to get through mot.
As for the wobbly socket, I was thinking of using a spanner, but that may change then.
Another one is a coolant pipe has been damaged, I only assume it was done by the last people I let near the car.
It's only silly little things apart from me having to get the car remapped to get through mot.
As for the wobbly socket, I was thinking of using a spanner, but that may change then.
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
ah, fair enough
the price of power i guess
the price of power i guess
the studs breaking is because of bb's design not having ny flexible pipework on the exhaust. so with the engine moving, it pull the whole system back and forward with it, and eventually the studs give way.
LY 182
I dont think you will find thats why the studs are breaking. Its more down to the way they are fitted.
on cossie YB engines you only torque the exhaust manifold studs to 10nm which is hardly nothing - if you torque them any more than that due to the expansion rates of the different metals after a few runs the massive heat the turbo gives off causes the manifold to expand and eventually it either snaps or pulls the threads out of the head.
supposed to use locking nuts (not nyloc as they will melt) and torque them to about 10/15nm with a new gasket
on cossie YB engines you only torque the exhaust manifold studs to 10nm which is hardly nothing - if you torque them any more than that due to the expansion rates of the different metals after a few runs the massive heat the turbo gives off causes the manifold to expand and eventually it either snaps or pulls the threads out of the head.
supposed to use locking nuts (not nyloc as they will melt) and torque them to about 10/15nm with a new gasket
if you saw the design of the stuff you'd see it is why they break, there is so much movement. but what you say also has a partial play in the breaking, as they get hot with the amount of movement they have it downt help what so ever.
R35 GTR
It's not the head to manifold studs, they are ok..touch wood.
I will try tightening up as loose as possible, but also getting some super strong ones custom made so they should take the strain when the everything starts expanding and contracting.
I am also looking at cutting the down pipe and putting in a bit f flex to help a bit more.
Does anyone know if the flex exhaust stuff loses much power? I dont mind if its a few bhp.
I will try tightening up as loose as possible, but also getting some super strong ones custom made so they should take the strain when the everything starts expanding and contracting.
I am also looking at cutting the down pipe and putting in a bit f flex to help a bit more.
Does anyone know if the flex exhaust stuff loses much power? I dont mind if its a few bhp.
doesnt loose any power, provided its a good fit.
^^ aye...
reminds me of my ex, she asked me to have a look at her mums car, i asked if she had tools, which she replied yes, so brilliant didnt need to take mine home from work, got there and that was all she had, a 10mm and a 13mm spanner.lol!
reminds me of my ex, she asked me to have a look at her mums car, i asked if she had tools, which she replied yes, so brilliant didnt need to take mine home from work, got there and that was all she had, a 10mm and a 13mm spanner.lol!
