Sound deadening and Door Liner Removal

[sajc]

I have a 2002 Mk2 Clio Sport and I want to sound deaden my doors (and the rest of the car actually) something like this:

http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=35733

(Check the pics of the doors to see what I mean)

Im sure somebody has done something like this before... how hard is it? How is the card attached? Doesnt have screws etc. Is it clipped or glued on there?


[Edited by sajc on 12/5/2004 12:09:57 AM]

 

[Final Maxim]

LOT of extra weight just for a bit of sound deadening . plus those pads cost quite a bit each ya know!

FM

 

[Rorrie]

ive got about that much on my doors and bit more in my boot, well worth it IMO, but it depends how serious you are, i would defo do the doors

 

[sajc]

Yeah, I know how much they cost. Its not too bad. And yeah, Im serious about it.

Weight wise, yeah, it was a concern, but I really like my audio and cant stand the road noise. The stinger roadkill weighs in at about 4kg per square metre (for all you oudated people thats 9lbs per 10sq ft).

In actual fact, Im leaning more towards a closed-cell foam acoustic absorbent rather than a vibration dampener like dynamat or road kill etc. Maybe Ill just do both

Ive lost my spare wheel now anyhow, so my sub is going to go in there. So Ive got some weight that I can make up in sound deadening before im back to the factory weight

So... any ideas about how the door cards work and how much access is under there? The main reason Im asking is that I dont want to do it if its going to wreck the door cards in the process of getting them off. I konw renault uses some alternative methods for attaching all that stuff! Or maybe its just that Im not so used to European cars. I dont know. But its been a pain so far for installing audio gear!

Scott.

[Edited by sajc on 12/5/2004 12:31:30 AM]

 

[sajc]

Hey Rorrie... any info on how the cards come off or how theyre attached? Are they easy to get off and put back on without wrecking them? Are they clipped, screwed, glued?

Cheers,

Scott.

 

[Rorrie]

there are 4 tork screw on the bottom of the door card, and then you have to remove the 2 peices of trim above the door card (one that is where a manual wing mirror adjuster would be the other runs up the otherside of the window) and then there are a few clips that pop off and the card lifts out.

closed cell foam is good for certain places, but if you sound deadening properly you want to use a combinations of

dampening , absorbing and if your going full out blocking and isolating as well , but they are a little harder!!!

 

[Rorrie]

there is also a run of sticky stuff (cant think of a better way to describe it!!) that holds the card in place a bit more, i found once the card had been removed a few times it lost its stickyness(!) and so the card ratteled a bit more, so i added draft excluder to the card to cure it - works brill on ratteling trim! (sorry if you already knew any of this info!!)



rorrie

 

[sajc]

Ever done any under the carpet? Its hard to work out where the noise is coming in from, but it sounds like a lot is coming in near the footwells and between the seats. I have an aftermarket exhaust that isnt a stupidly loud one (nice and hidden too), but it does make more noise than the factory one... it drowns out my midbass too much.

Yeah, Ill probably do a combo of things, at this point i think itll just be dampening and absorbing with stinger roadkill and closed cell foam that ill get from a hardware shop. I have to do the boot as well, and maybe under the carpet too, so it might get a bit expensive! The isolation stuff... well, I dont know if I need it or could be bothered doing it

Thanks for the info.

 

[Rorrie]

ive done around the bulkhead and down to the footwells, but not on the flat section - as i ran out of dynmat extreme at that point.

Sounds like a good idea!!

Rorrie

 

[The Bear]

I take it you have to disconnect the electric windows when taking the door off as well?