The everlasting ph1 ITB Build **GREEN-BUILD STARTS AT PAGE 100**

[Nafoff]

UPDATE

I managed to get some time on the car this afternoon and to look at what Race Technology had suggested. There suggestion was to down-spec the software I was using to v8.5 and to then re-flash the dash with a file they sent over. This was completed so I then look at calibrating the Oil Temp and Pressure as per previously attempted.

BEFORE

The dash was originally reading OIL TEMP - 137 and OIL PRESSURE - 18.
I looked at the inputs and equations and struggled a bit (I don't even know and struggled to find out how to change the equations).... but managed to change the equation for the OIL TEMP so it would read 0....

AFTER (note the change of equation for oil temp)
I did then also look to change the Oil Pressure to BAR, with this equation in also dropped it to -1, but for the life of me I couldn't edit the equation....

Now I am not sure what I have done is correct or not... but I am pretty sure no problems yet have been solved. When starting the car up there is still no input from the sensors so therefore no readings are changing.... also Race Technology have still not suggested how to input my ECU information. If anyone can advise it is most certainly welcome.... I am getting back with RT now also to seek advice on next steps.

Neil if you email me your dash 2 configuration file and what channels you have sensors wired I to I can check it for you.
ECU interface wise I'm not sure as your ECU isn't on the drop down so unless they are using a different option option that runs same settings.

@neil a I now have a configuration file downloaded and can email it over if the offer is still open?

 

[NorthloopCup]

UPDATE

I managed to get some time on the car this afternoon and to look at what Race Technology had suggested. There suggestion was to down-spec the software I was using to v8.5 and to then re-flash the dash with a file they sent over. This was completed so I then look at calibrating the Oil Temp and Pressure as per previously attempted.

View attachment 1436550

BEFORE
View attachment 1436549
View attachment 1436551

The dash was originally reading OIL TEMP - 137 and OIL PRESSURE - 18.
I looked at the inputs and equations and struggled a bit (I don't even know and struggled to find out how to change the equations).... but managed to change the equation for the OIL TEMP so it would read 0....

AFTER (note the change of equation for oil temp)
I did then also look to change the Oil Pressure to BAR, with this equation in also dropped it to -1, but for the life of me I couldn't edit the equation....
View attachment 1436553
View attachment 1436554

Now I am not sure what I have done is correct or not... but I am pretty sure no problems yet have been solved. When starting the car up there is still no input from the sensors so therefore no readings are changing.... also Race Technology have still not suggested how to input my ECU information. If anyone can advise it is most certainly welcome.... I am getting back with RT now also to seek advice on next steps.



@neil a I now have a configuration file downloaded and can email it over if the offer is still open?

Have the sensors been tested to prove that they’re working mate? Wired up correctly as well I assume?

 

[Chambers_RS]

Headache!

I can’t remember but is your dash taking the inputs from the sensors directly or via the ecu?

 

[Nafoff]

Have the sensors been tested to prove that they’re working mate? Wired up correctly as well I assume?

James and I pinned them out last week and they were both all good. Add to that the fact al the loom was working when it came out of James' car.

Headache! I can’t remember but is your dash taking the inputs from the sensors directly or via the ecu?

Headache for sure.... The Oil temp and pressure are direct to the dash, all else will come from the ECU (except the speed if/when I wire that in...)

 

[neil a]

UPDATE

I managed to get some time on the car this afternoon and to look at what Race Technology had suggested. There suggestion was to down-spec the software I was using to v8.5 and to then re-flash the dash with a file they sent over. This was completed so I then look at calibrating the Oil Temp and Pressure as per previously attempted.

View attachment 1436550

BEFORE
View attachment 1436549
View attachment 1436551

The dash was originally reading OIL TEMP - 137 and OIL PRESSURE - 18.
I looked at the inputs and equations and struggled a bit (I don't even know and struggled to find out how to change the equations).... but managed to change the equation for the OIL TEMP so it would read 0....

AFTER (note the change of equation for oil temp)
I did then also look to change the Oil Pressure to BAR, with this equation in also dropped it to -1, but for the life of me I couldn't edit the equation....
View attachment 1436553
View attachment 1436554

Now I am not sure what I have done is correct or not... but I am pretty sure no problems yet have been solved. When starting the car up there is still no input from the sensors so therefore no readings are changing.... also Race Technology have still not suggested how to input my ECU information. If anyone can advise it is most certainly welcome.... I am getting back with RT now also to seek advice on next steps.



@neil a I now have a configuration file downloaded and can email it over if the offer is still open?

I will PM you my email.
If they are the standard sensors provided by RT and wired with a resistor then you shouldn't need to adjust the equation just select the correct sensor from the drip down.
If your saying ash had the dash working with this wiring in the past I'm guessing they are wired correct unless he used the custom sensor setting where you have to manually enter readings to create an equation( you will need to do this for your fuel level)

 

[Nafoff]

I will PM you my email.
If they are the standard sensors provided by RT and wired with a resistor then you shouldn't need to adjust the equation just select the correct sensor from the drip down.
If your saying ash had the dash working with this wiring in the past I'm guessing they are wired correct unless he used the custom sensor setting where you have to manually enter readings to create an equation( you will need to do this for your fuel level)

They are indeed RT sensors but were showing the oil temp as above at 137 and pressure at -18psi or -1 BAR.

It is weird how it is not reading anything from the engine though. No reply from RT yet

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:
Well still struggling with the Dash2 connection.Race Technology have been great so far with email support, I am hoping we can sort it eventually going through this.
It is a step by step process over email, ticking things off. In the most recent email RT sent me a screengrab of what the serial/CAN wires should be wired too (seen below) and it was at this point I realised I didn't have the Terminator cable on my set-up.

The Terminator supplies the CAN interface with power and I can only assume that it wasn't in my loom set-up as BigAsh ran a data logger and that would of in-turn supplied the power for the CAN interface. When we realised I didn't have this RT sent me the cable free of charge, that was about 2 weeks ago... then...

well this kind of happened..

He was 1 month early so a little un-expected but he and his mum are doing great now. We didn't know what we were having so when he was born and we knew it was a little boy I was quite excited, now I have someone to complete the car for.... it may just be ready for him when he is 17... ha. I introduced him to the toyshop yesterday anyways.

As I am currently on paternity it gave me chance to get out and wire the Terminator cable in. Luckily (as previously mentioned) there was a data logger in the loom, the wires for that were still there so I wired the Terminator cable into that and fused it at the same as what the data logger was fussed at 5A (I hope that is correct).

I then spoke to RT again and they asked me to run a live monitoring test on the ECU... I did this today and to me it seems like it isn't reading anything... hmmmm

Hopefully they can make sense of that and we will move forward in the next email....

 

[Chambers_RS]

Congrats matey!!!

 

[Nafoff]

Congrats matey!!!

Thank you mate...

So, as I thought it does seem like power is not going to the CAN interface. I can't think that I have wired up the Terminator cable wrong as this was so simple... ir power and ground....

I am thinking i have either fused it too much/too little (currently at 5A).
OR I have wired it wrong. I somehow need to check this, I am thinking of using a multimeter and going across all the serial connector pins.

Any other suggestions?

 

[neil a]

Congratulations Neil
Also good to see things are progressing with the dash.

 

[Nafoff]

Congratulations Neil. Also good to see things are progressing with the dash.

Appreciated mate. How are things your end?

UPDATE
So today a remote working appointment was made with RT so they could remote into my laptop and try and diagnose.
RT have been really good over the past few days getting back to me over email so I was confident today would be useful in some way.

Once we got them remotely into my laptop they discovered the same issue and was unsure how to overcome it...
It was only then that the technical support noticed something about one of the images I sent back to him showing him my set-up.

I had previously gone back through wiring up the Terminator, I was pretty confident I got it right, as per my comment below:

I can't think that I have wired up the Terminator cable wrong as this was so simple... power and ground....

and when I got the multimeter out it confirmed to me that I was all good... 12v

or so I thought. without a plug pinout (that I couldn't find) I wasn't to know any better, but RT technical support told me this was (pin 5) infact the ground... so that very simple job that I had done I got wrong.... I have since sorted the wiring and tested it and I am now getting a reading, so thats good and one step closer... Now I need to connect the dash up and see how that goes.

I also need to find a 0.5A or 1A mini blade fuse for the terminator cable but am massively struggling unless someone knows better?

 

[neil a]

All good at this end thanks little Luke arrived last Wed, he is doing fine and his mum is recovering well. It's a shock to the system forsure buy he is starting to sleep longer already.

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:

I managed to get more time on the car this morning and time to look at the dash. It seems like I am now in a pretty good place with the dash. The Terminator cable has worked and I am now beginning to get data from the ECU to the dash. (see below)

I have continued speaking with RT and they are assisting me further. They sent over a base config file to use on the dash which I have then amended myself to suit.

I have up'd the rev range on the display to allow fo the 7600rpm but I have had to remove the speedo from the dash display as I currently do not have the wheel speed sensor wired in (I am still debating whether I will add this yet), this also means any trip computer is out/gone. On screen one I went for the vitals - Oil pressure and temp and then water/coolant temp,

On screen 2 - ambient temp, throttle position and fuel pressure.

I take it these all need calibrating?
Although I seem to be making good headway I feel there is still a fair bit to sort, as follows:

• Oil pressure & temp are currently taking input/reading from the ECU but they are wired direct to dash, I need to figure out what channel they are on and then amend their inputs. I think I have a way to do this thanks to @neil a

• As I do not run the wheel speed sensor currently it means it is more awkward to sort the gear indicator (the easiest way is by RPM and WPS), the other way is to map it from variable (as per screengrab below), I need to figure out what the value's are for this

• I need to figure out the shift lights and at what values they come on at (see below).

There is no rush but it would be good to get this figured out and sorted...
If anyone has any suggestions, or knowledge that would be a massive help.

 

[NorthloopCup]

UPDATE:

I managed to get more time on the car this morning and time to look at the dash. It seems like I am now in a pretty good place with the dash. The Terminator cable has worked and I am now beginning to get data from the ECU to the dash. (see below)

View attachment 1439438

I have continued speaking with RT and they are assisting me further. They sent over a base config file to use on the dash which I have then amended myself to suit.

I have up'd the rev range on the display to allow fo the 7600rpm but I have had to remove the speedo from the dash display as I currently do not have the wheel speed sensor wired in (I am still debating whether I will add this yet), this also means any trip computer is out/gone. On screen one I went for the vitals - Oil pressure and temp and then water/coolant temp,

View attachment 1439434

On screen 2 - ambient temp, throttle position and fuel pressure.

View attachment 1439435

I take it these all need calibrating?
Although I seem to be making good headway I feel there is still a fair bit to sort, as follows:

• Oil pressure & temp are currently taking input/reading from the ECU but they are wired direct to dash, I need to figure out what channel they are on and then amend their inputs. I think I have a way to do this thanks to @neil a

View attachment 1439440

• As I do not run the wheel speed sensor currently it means it is more awkward to sort the gear indicator (the easiest way is by RPM and WPS), the other way is to map it from variable (as per screengrab below), I need to figure out what the value's are for this

View attachment 1439439

• I need to figure out the shift lights and at what values they come on at (see below).

View attachment 1439441

There is no rush but it would be good to get this figured out and sorted...
If anyone has any suggestions, or knowledge that would be a massive help.

I would imagine that the values for the gears are the ratios mate? But I could be wrong.

 

[Nafoff]

I would imagine that the values for the gears are the ratios mate? But I could be wrong.

Not far off mate, I now have some time to do some research... as below:
KPH per 1,000 rpm. To calculate these you enter: GEAR RATIO's, FINAL DRIVE RATIO and ROLLING CIRCUMFERENCE of WHEEL (in meters or miles)

Just found some useful info too I think.... (the last red line as this relates to installing the 5th gear from a Megane box.)
View attachment 1424611

Car	Power	Weight	P/W	drag coe	Rev limit	ratio 1	ratio 2	ratio 3	ratio 4	ratio 5	ratio 6	ratio 7	FD	Wheel diam (M)
Clio	165	1.035	159.42	0.358	7250	3.09	1.86	1.32	1.02	0.79			4.07	0.576
					MPH	38.90	64.63	91.06	117.85	152.16

Apparently @massivewangers has a variable spreadsheet that I am trying to tap him up for...

 

[NorthloopCup]

@bashracing had a spreadsheet as well mate.

 

[NorthloopCup]

Not far off mate, I now have some time to do some research... as below:
KPH per 1,000 rpm. To calculate these you enter: GEAR RATIO's, FINAL DRIVE RATIO and ROLLING CIRCUMFERENCE of WHEEL (in meters or miles)

Just found some useful info too I think.... (the last red line as this relates to installing the 5th gear from a Megane box.)
View attachment 1424611

Car	Power	Weight	P/W	drag coe	Rev limit	ratio 1	ratio 2	ratio 3	ratio 4	ratio 5	ratio 6	ratio 7	FD	Wheel diam (M)
Clio	165	1.035	159.42	0.358	7250	3.09	1.86	1.32	1.02	0.79			4.07	0.576
					MPH	38.90	64.63	91.06	117.85	152.16

Apparently @massivewangers has a variable spreadsheet that I am trying to tap him up for...

Is your gearbox the original ph1 box? If so you’ll need to find the final drive ratio for the jc5 089 mate. It’s slightly taller than the 129/130 final drive.

 

[bashracing]

Some reading material


-----------------------------------

Clio 182
JC5- 130: 1st: 3.091 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.795
Final Drive: 4.067

Clio 172 phase 1
JC5-089: 1st: 3.091 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.795
Final Drive: 3.867

Clio 172 cup
JC5-129: 1st: 3.091 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.795
Final Drive: 4.067


------------------------------
Available gripper final drive Ratios

5.25
4.54
4.28
---------------------------------
All other JC5 ratios
JC5 Renault Gearbox Ratios / Relations
JC5-014: 1st: 3.091 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.794 Final Drive: 4.067
JC5-053: 1st: 3.363 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.821 Final Drive: 4.067
JC5-062: 1st: 3.364 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.795 Final Drive: 4.067
JC5-070: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.795 Final Drive: 4.067
JC5-072: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.738 Final Drive: 3.733 F9Q 736 Engine
JC5-089: 1st: 3.091 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.795 Final Drive: 3.867
JC5-090: 1st: 3.364 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.821 Final Drive: 3.867
JC5-100: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.393 4th: 1.097 5th: 0.821 Final Drive: 3.867
JC5-103: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.738 Final Drive: 3.733 F9Q 736 Engine
JC5-106: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.393 4th: 1.097 5th: 0.892 Final Drive: 3.563
JC5-107: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.738 Final Drive: 3.294 Megane 1.9dCi F9Q 105hp Gearbox
JC5-113: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.756 Final Drive: 3.563 F9Q 732 Engine
JC5-108: 1st: 3.364 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.821 Final Drive: 4.067
JC5-109: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.738 Final Drive: 3.733
JC5-119: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.795 Final Drive: 4.067
JC5-120: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.738 Final Drive: 3.867
JC5-125: 1st: 3.364 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.756 Final Drive: 3.867
JC5-126: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.756 Final Drive: 3.563
JC5-128: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.756 Final Drive: 3.294
JC5-129: 1st: 3.091 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.795 Final Drive: 4.067
JC5-130: 1st: 3.091 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.795 Final Drive: 4.067
JC5-131: 1st: 3.364 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.821 Final Drive: 3.867
JC5-132: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.756 Final Drive: 3.563
JC5-137: 1st: 3.364 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.821 Final Drive: 4.067
JC5-138: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.738 Final Drive: 3.294
JC5-140: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.756 Final Drive: 3.294
JC5-144: 1st: 3.727 2nd: 2.048 3rd: 1.321 4th: 0.971 5th: 0.756 Final Drive: 3.294

 

[bashracing]

Standard ph2 ratios on 195 50 15 tyres

 

[bashracing]

Ph2 Ratios on 5.25 CWP

 

[Nafoff]

Is your gearbox the original ph1 box? If so you’ll need to find the final drive ratio for the jc5 089 mate. It’s slightly taller than the 129/130 final drive.

It is indeed the original box. So looking at @bashracing posts below it should be:


Clio 172 phase 1
JC5-089: 1st: 3.091 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.795
Final Drive: 3.867

 

[NorthloopCup]

It is indeed the original box. So looking at @bashracing posts below it should be:


Clio 172 phase 1
JC5-089: 1st: 3.091 2nd: 1.864 3rd: 1.321 4th: 1.029 5th: 0.795
Final Drive: 3.867

When we putting a diff in it then? 😂

 

[Nafoff]

When we putting a diff in it then? 😂

You going to sponsor that? 😜
I will be coming to you for that though, I know how much you like doing them

 

[NorthloopCup]

You going to sponsor that? 😜
I will be coming to you for that though, I know how much you like doing them

You know I’d look after you anyway. 😉

 

[neil a]

For the shift lights i would use the numbers in the screen shot above +1000 on each one bar the last that i would put at 7400 , as i guess you will have a 7500 limiter set . This function will get the readings from the rev counter thats fed from your ECU.

 

[911lau]

If you need help with gearbox ratio ask me , I have a program to make diagram with rpm tiers ratio .....i make more gearboxes frankenstien

 

[Nafoff]

For the shift lights i would use the numbers in the screen shot above +1000 on each one bar the last that i would put at 7400 , as i guess you will have a 7500 limiter set . This function will get the readings from the rev counter thats fed from your ECU.

After looking
Cheers Neil, I was looking at my map (seen below) and it looked like the power/revs peak at 7200RPM so I was going to work to that.

On that basis I was thinking about setting my shift lights up at the below:

2nd - 5200
3rd - 5600
4th - 6000
5th - 6400
6th - 6800
ALL FLASHING - 7200

This also sits the flashing lights in the power bands of each gear/change (shown below)

What you reckon mate?

 

[Nafoff]

If you need help with gearbox ratio ask me , I have a program to make diagram with rpm tiers ratio .....i make more gearboxes frankenstien






View attachment 1439509

I think I am alright as have a graph similar (please see below). Thank you for the offer though.

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:
I have input the above details into the dash all ok but I am going to have to wait until I get the car back down on it's wheels to see if these are all ok.

I presume I am going to also have to calibrate all the sensors (coolant and ambient temps and fuel pressure).
I also need to look at if there is an input for some kind of fuel monitoring...

My main concern initially though is getting comms with the oil temp and pressure sensors. RT sent me a test file but this come back in-conclusive (see below).

Continuity has been checked on both sensors but there are still no comms coming through on these. RT have said it is very unlikely both sensors have failed, it is also unlikely the internal DASH2 analogue input circuit has been damaged. I have some next steps to look at with regards to this:

1) Both Black wires / GND wires from the DASH2 wiring harness, connected to a suitable GND connection on the vehicle, such as: battery negative terminal or GND point on the engine block.

2) The Red wire from both sensors, connected to the 5V ref wire on the DASH2 harness, the 5V ref wire is the Grey wire on Connector 2.

3) The Black wire from both sensors, connected to the same GND connection as the black GND wires from the DASH2 harness.

4) Finally the White wire from both sensors, connected to separate DASH2 analogue input wires, such as the white wire from the Oil Temp sensor, connected to the Green & Yellow wire on Connector 1 i.e. analog input 1. The white wire from the Oil Pressure sensor, connected to the blue wire on Connector 1 i.e. analog input 2.

Quite frustrating as the loom previously worked in BigAsh's car, this also means that loom is heat-shrinked etc so tough to follow. Northampton Motorsport did change the bulkhead connector so I am wondering if that is where I should start...

 

[vroomtshh]

A couple of things to consider

How many things have you run off the 5v reference feed? Once you take the resistors into account, it can't always run everything.

Are you checking the correct analog inputs. IIRC, input 1 is actually input 13 on the dash software. The first load of inputs are for if you connect the sensors via a datalogger

 

[Nafoff]

A couple of things to consider
How many things have you run off the 5v reference feed? Once you take the resistors into account, it can't always run everything.
Are you checking the correct analog inputs. IIRC, input 1 is actually input 13 on the dash software. The first load of inputs are for if you connect the sensors via a datalogger

Thank you mate,
I would need to check/ask what is run off the 5v (as previously mentioned this was a loom made and used by someone else). I would have thought it was ok as the maker was very clued up on what he was building/what for.

With regards to the correct inputs, I am pretty sure we checked the right pins, we continuity/current tested both sensors from the pins at the dash to the pins in the sensors

 

[vroomtshh]

Thank you mate,
I would need to check/ask what is run off the 5v (as previously mentioned this was a loom made and used by someone else). I would have thought it was ok as the maker was very clued up on what he was building/what for.

With regards to the correct inputs, I am pretty sure we checked the right pins, we continuity/current tested both sensors from the pins at the dash to the pins in the sensors

Sorry, I mean the input channels in the software, not the physical inputs. Input 1 (physical) is input 13 in the software from memory

 

[Nafoff]

Sorry, I mean the input channels in the software, not the physical inputs. Input 1 (physical) is input 13 in the software from memory

Ah gotcha, all checked and are correct.

I am currently at a bit of a stalemate. I got back in-touch with Northampton Motorsport to see if they could remind me what they thought the issue was. They said when they buzzed out the wiring from the sensors to the back of the dash there were some pins at the dash that all had continuity with the same sensor. They thought there was a fault within the wiring between the bulkhead connector and the back of the dash.

HOWEVER, the above contradicts the test files of Race Technology software as that is saying there is no voltage at all. Myself and BigAsh also checked the above and it was fine...hhmmmpphhh.

Not going to get myself super caught up in this yet, I am hardly getting any time on it anyways.

 

[Nafoff]

UPDATE:
No long after posting last week Race Technology got back in contact with me after doing a bit of digging their end. My Dash2 is a very early item and because of this it differs to some later models in that it does not have a 5V reference out voltage. This is normally used to power up Race Technology sensors, without this the sensors will not be powered from 5V, which our sensors require.

We talked over various ways to try and get around this issue, some of which involved purchasing a new dash (with 5v reference out in-built), the idea here was that the new Dash2 has GPS too which would solve my speedo issue. There were issues however with each other way to solve this and I also found out that you don't need a speedo on your dash for an MOT (meaning I can just use my phone for a speedo) this not only keeps things simple on the dash but also means I no longer will wire in my speedo sensor....

With that in mind Race Technology sent me a 5V regulator, once this has been wired into the system, it will supply the sensors with the 5V they require.

I'm struggling to find time to work on the car at the moment but this should be an easy fix now hopefully, looking forward to having the dash sorted and actually taking the car for a test-run.

 

[green]

Least you’ve got to the bottom of the problem. Good luck with the wiring!

 

[Nafoff]

So, its my birthday early in the new year and I am thinking about asking for some tyres and a wheel refurb... how exciting.The wheel side of things I know what I am doing but am considering which tyres I should be looking at... I have a few saved posts on facebook to check through but would be interesting to hear peoples thoughts on here...

I am after 15" road legal tyres, potentially track focused (they don't yet need to fit to any regulations)
I am thinking about getting a set for all weathers now and then potentially in future keeping these as wets and getting a more focused dry set on another set of wheels.

Whats your thoughts/experiences @Chambers_RS @Tomotek @pule333 @vroomtshh @neil a @bashracing and anyone else?

 

[JamesBryan]

Nankang AR1 or R888 for the road.

Yokohama A048/A050 or Dunlop DZ03G for all out track,

 

[Chambers_RS]

Purely down to price the only tyre I’ve ran on the Clio has been federal 595RS-R’s. I’ve managed to bag 4 205/50/15s twice for £200 delivered.
Value for money I couldn’t find anything close.
This was on the blue Clio when it was in the road and found them a perfect balance of track/road/value. Gone up abit now tho.
Now it’s a trailer queen I’ll look for something different to try like AR1s

 

[JamesBryan]

AR1's warm up really quick.

 

[massiveCoRbyn]

Buy some good all-weather tyres for road/wet track use, then just fit slicks for the dry track. Go hard or go home.