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Tips & tricks for swapping inlet manifold?



Now that i've actually got the gasket and other little bits I will need, im going to be having another crack at this at some point in the week so i can finally get my exchange manifold back to Mark at jamsport.

I'm fine with getting the top plenum off, but ran into problems with the manifold before turning back last time.

Does anyone have any particular advice or tricks that make it a bit easier to do?

Cheers
Tom
 
  GSXR 600
Ditto, I would like to know this...

Do you have to remove the engine mount to get the lower manifold off?

cheers
Tony.
 
thanks for that man, was well aware of it already and used it to successfully guide me through getting most of the bolts out.

For what i can tell the difficult ones are the bottmo left one here:
Inletsideon.gif


and the bolt that is on the side of the engine next to the engine mount. To loosen the engine mount do i just need to undoe the 16mm bolt in the centre of the mount so i can jack the engine slightly?
 
  BMW M135i
The problem arises from the bolt that bolts through from the aux mounting brackets that threads into the lower inlet. The mount can stay put I think afaik, can't remember now.
 
The problem arises from the bolt that bolts through from the aux mounting brackets that threads into the lower inlet. The mount can stay put I think afaik, can't remember now.

From my first try, you can get at the bolt with a socket but can only turn it one click at a time, would very probably take hours to undo!
 
  BMW M135i
Cranked spanners would be my weapon of choice, can't remember it exactly from when I did the cambelt on the 172. Probably make it a whole lot easier to unbolt the left mount and the dogbone and jack the engine up to give you access to the bolt. b*****d may be if/when the aux belt tension pulls the mounts out of line a little.
 
  Ph1
Top engine mount off and raise the engine up to gain access to the side bolt is the easiest way by far. You dont need to take the dogbone off and the bolt dosent interfere with the tensioner or any pulleys
 
  Ph1
Yes mate. You can take the 4 bolts out if you prefer. Its your choice.

Obviously make sure you support the engine with the jack lol
 
  Ph1
You have to slacken the bolts off first ;) lol

The mount to body once the 4 bolts have been removed, if you choose to do it that way, just lifts off. You cant go wrong, either the single bolt or the 4 bolts will do the same job :)
 
  BMW M135i
It won't let the engine come free if you've only undone the engine bolts, otherwise your just jacking the engine up into the mount.

And while that top bolt doesn't deal with the tensioner or the idler it does hold the top brace off the top of the alternator.

http://gallery.getflat.co.uk/v/My_C...ambelt/DSC00249.JPG.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=2

You can see it in that pic, with that bolt out all the load will be on the crossbrace that goes to the block (not fitted in that pic) so just keep your eye on it for trying to move. And for the sake of one bolt i'd drop the dogbone out of the gearbox just to save putting any unnecessary load on it.
 
Success!

Just got back in from fitting and its all gone well.

Found in the process that my engine mount is completely fubar'd though! Going to order a new one now.

Thanks to anyone that offered advice
 


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