ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
Racing blue 182 turbo :-)
It dont even get worm lol its no where near it
Racing blue 182 turbo :-)
Ye going very well was keeping with the evo's this time
ITB'd MK1
dont touch it. leave it where it's been mapped
is it 5 bar off vac?
Racing blue 182 turbo :-)
5 bar on the gauge on the side of the regulator thats what i thought they said anyway only just put a gauge on it thats why i'm saying this
ITB'd MK1
we'd normally use 3.5-4 bar on a boosted setup (we use a weber fixed FPR not an adjustable one as they're not as stable)
with very high flow rate injectors (700cc/min + ) some will use a higher pressure to get better atomisation of the fuel at low duty points (idle etc.) you should be ok around 3 bar, and it's where your car's been mapped. Just ask paul to raise it to 4bar when you re-map for higher boost
Racing blue 182 turbo :-)
Only a small bolt but that was fixed. Going great
Racing blue 182 turbo :-)
Not going to mess with it mate will be coming back to you soonI set the pressure to 3.5bar on it mate. Leave alone
Paul
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
Too right you are.
Needs more power!
Needs more power!
Racing blue 182 turbo :-)
Too right
seems slow to me now.
Racing blue 182 turbo :-)
Might sound pritty low but wow it makes a big difference. Like look at the price of a throttle body kit its around the 2,500 mark and only gives bout 30 bhp
VRS
yeah deffo, its all about little gains for big money on the clios unfortunately but what i generally meant was 7-8k can get you a good 400 brake if spent on the right parts
^^ half that maka
Ryan, now you say your used to the power here is a list I'd ''personally'' do to get what I consider value for money
1- change/modify/lengthen the OE manifold to bring the turbo round to ware the battery normally sits and weld a T3 4 both flange to said manifold
2- change the turbo you was supplied (far to small again IMO)
3- change inter cooler (again to small IMO)
4- purchase a Garrett gt30/35 turbo......maybe with a .64 housing to aid lag!
5- purchase a 44mm external waste gate..(this will help boost creep)
6- some RC 700cc injectors
7- run a standalone system ( this gives your more scope when your going for bigger power.
as i say this i what i would do mate (waits for the KTEC, usual our kits are the b****cks)
if your interested, i can give you company's and names in the states i have used and continue to use to this day, for the above listed, you could buy the lot for under 3k, yes its a lot of money but you'll have a car that to be frank would be an absolute weapon
norm
Ryan, now you say your used to the power here is a list I'd ''personally'' do to get what I consider value for money
1- change/modify/lengthen the OE manifold to bring the turbo round to ware the battery normally sits and weld a T3 4 both flange to said manifold
2- change the turbo you was supplied (far to small again IMO)
3- change inter cooler (again to small IMO)
4- purchase a Garrett gt30/35 turbo......maybe with a .64 housing to aid lag!
5- purchase a 44mm external waste gate..(this will help boost creep)
6- some RC 700cc injectors
7- run a standalone system ( this gives your more scope when your going for bigger power.
as i say this i what i would do mate (waits for the KTEC, usual our kits are the b****cks)
if your interested, i can give you company's and names in the states i have used and continue to use to this day, for the above listed, you could buy the lot for under 3k, yes its a lot of money but you'll have a car that to be frank would be an absolute weapon
norm
ITB'd MK1
my opinion..... prob agree with about 50% of that. Got to consider the fact it's still usable as a daily driver as it is, and it's a VERY fast car on that basis^^ half that maka
Ryan, now you say your used to the power here is a list I'd ''personally'' do to get what I consider value for money
1- change/modify/lengthen the OE manifold to bring the turbo round to ware the battery normally sits and weld a T3 4 both flange to said manifold
2- change the turbo you was supplied (far to small again IMO)
3- change inter cooler (again to small IMO)
4- purchase a Garrett gt30/35 turbo......maybe with a .64 housing to aid lag!
5- purchase a 44mm external waste gate..(this will help boost creep)
6- some RC 700cc injectors
7- run a standalone system ( this gives your more scope when your going for bigger power.
as i say this i what i would do mate (waits for the KTEC, usual our kits are the b****cks)
if your interested, i can give you company's and names in the states i have used and continue to use to this day, for the above listed, you could buy the lot for under 3k, yes its a lot of money but you'll have a car that to be frank would be an absolute weapon
norm
i no what your saying mate, but personally i dont mind sacrificing some usability for a quick/ big spec motor that i no ive got value for money for
everybody to there own tho and all that
ITB'd MK1
absolutely. Just know I've made my s13 about the limit of usable now and kind of wish i'd done less :S
As a second car/toy I'd be fitting a GT2876r 0.64 A/R (no need for a different manifold or link pipe then ) Biggest chinese made intercooler I could physically fit, Omex 600 (obviously ) 3 inch exhaust, and do some work to the cylinder head and inlets. should see 400+ as a guesstimate.
Driven a K-tec prep'd turbo car, scary fast for the chassis
As a second car/toy I'd be fitting a GT2876r 0.64 A/R (no need for a different manifold or link pipe then
) Biggest chinese made intercooler I could physically fit, Omex 600 (obviously ) 3 inch exhaust, and do some work to the cylinder head and inlets. should see 400+ as a guesstimate.Driven a K-tec prep'd turbo car, scary fast for the chassis
Racing blue 182 turbo :-)
Only spend just over 5k for bits the rest was tools etcyeah deffo, its all about little gains for big money on the clios unfortunately but what i generally meant was 7-8k can get you a good 400 brake if spent on the right parts
Racing blue 182 turbo :-)
No point in me changing the intercooler as it is at the min. The track day showed how good it worked exhaust was glowing and the intercooler was cold to touch the pipes where too. I would change all that if it wasnt a every day car i cant be giving it all this power and it break down. im getting a track car next year that i can do loads to coz it wouldnt matter if it blew up lol^^ half that maka
Ryan, now you say your used to the power here is a list I'd ''personally'' do to get what I consider value for money
1- change/modify/lengthen the OE manifold to bring the turbo round to ware the battery normally sits and weld a T3 4 both flange to said manifold
2- change the turbo you was supplied (far to small again IMO)
3- change inter cooler (again to small IMO)
4- purchase a Garrett gt30/35 turbo......maybe with a .64 housing to aid lag!
5- purchase a 44mm external waste gate..(this will help boost creep)
6- some RC 700cc injectors
7- run a standalone system ( this gives your more scope when your going for bigger power.
as i say this i what i would do mate (waits for the KTEC, usual our kits are the b****cks)
if your interested, i can give you company's and names in the states i have used and continue to use to this day, for the above listed, you could buy the lot for under 3k, yes its a lot of money but you'll have a car that to be frank would be an absolute weapon
norm
K-Tec Racing
ClioSport Trader
172LBT-172HBT-197-R2
^^ half that maka
Ryan, now you say your used to the power here is a list I'd ''personally'' do to get what I consider value for money
1- change/modify/lengthen the OE manifold to bring the turbo round to ware the battery normally sits and weld a T3 4 both flange to said manifold
2- change the turbo you was supplied (far to small again IMO)
3- change inter cooler (again to small IMO)
4- purchase a Garrett gt30/35 turbo......maybe with a .64 housing to aid lag!
5- purchase a 44mm external waste gate..(this will help boost creep)
6- some RC 700cc injectors
7- run a standalone system ( this gives your more scope when your going for bigger power.
as i say this i what i would do mate (waits for the KTEC, usual our kits are the b****cks)
if your interested, i can give you company's and names in the states i have used and continue to use to this day, for the above listed, you could buy the lot for under 3k, yes its a lot of money but you'll have a car that to be frank would be an absolute weapon
norm
Most of what is listed above would really make the car fly, GT35 would be rather OTT though. The main problems you will then have is the gearbox and getting traction. Not much point in having all that power if you cannot use it.
David.
Racing blue 182 turbo :-)
Had the turbo off again today because the bolts kept breaking and kept having to replace them. I've put some new stronger studs for the turbo to bolt onto these ones should be loads better. The Oil cooler was fitted, new heat shield on and exhaust welded up where it was leaking from where it was welded last.
Tomorrow i have to put the turbo back on the car, fit the drive shaft back in and put the exhaust back on. Fingers crossed it wont leak any more from the turbo where it is fixed to the manifold.
Will get some pics up soon of whats been done today.
Tomorrow i have to put the turbo back on the car, fit the drive shaft back in and put the exhaust back on. Fingers crossed it wont leak any more from the turbo where it is fixed to the manifold.
Will get some pics up soon of whats been done today.
i have to disagree there david, a freind of mine runs that exact spec 172 turbo lump in his R5gtt...........hes been running it for 2 years now, that has has 100's of runs up santa pod and its abused dayly...........his gearbox his fine upto yet, i must admit he will be using a vag item in the not to distant future tho
n0rm
R35 GTR
That has been one of my major problems. I got some stainless steel studs machined, nordlock locking washers and some lock nuts on there now.
if your on about scoff then thats not a 100% because he said the gearbox kept overheating at constant speed and would get stuck in 4th
ValverInBits
GT35 would be overkill IMO, but I do think a bigger turbo should be considered.
I think i'd personally go for standalone first so that I could tweak the map for any future mods i made myself. Something like emerald would also allow you to have 3 maps on a live switch.
Is that turbo the biggest you can get down the back of an F4R?
I think i'd personally go for standalone first so that I could tweak the map for any future mods i made myself. Something like emerald would also allow you to have 3 maps on a live switch.
Is that turbo the biggest you can get down the back of an F4R?
it got stuck once on the first day of USC that's the only time i no of!!, that was after quite a bit of abuse on the strip!! its never ever given up the goat on the road!!
i said gt 30/35......IMO i would got for the 35, has for the biggest turbo you can get down the back id imagine some sort of little t3.....either making a new manifold or chapping and re welding the OE item to bring the turbo round the the side is the way forward IMO...........plus it makes an easy life for maintenance to
A
ashy_gtt
I still stand by what i said back on page 3, no matter how big the turbo you fit the T2 flange will always be the restriction with big flow!!
you wouldn't break down if you took your time and built things properly
changing a turbo and or manifold would no way what so ever make the car unreliable
i do wonder if your physically able to take any kind of advise still Ryan.
