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TwentyValver Project Thread



  ValverInBits
right I've got a question about my cooling system.

The on the OEM setup, the header tank is plumbed in like this:
Bottom hose feeds to the water pump intake#
Top hose is Tee'd off the highest point in the system (in this case, the top rad hose).

Im wondering if I can do this:
Bottom header tank hose as normal feeding the water pump.
The highest point on my system will be the return line from the turbo. Instead of plumbing the return line from the turbo back into the back of the water pump, could I just send it straight to the top of the header tank.
The only catch is that this return line has to go down before it comes up to the header tank......but i'm thinking that could be ok.
If I can do this it'd be really handy.
Opinions and thoughts please.
 

_WILL_

ClioSport Club Member
  172 Cup
I don't know too much but the build is pretty complicated already, but seems to be going very well, so I wouldn't risk changing something relatively simple like this and setting the project back, or worst case damaging something!

edit - f**k just re-read, surely it has to be from the highest point of the system, whatever that is!
 
  ValverInBits
hmm. I kind of need to work out whether or not it's possible. I need to get onto ThinkAuto ASAP about it.

I don't really see an issue with it tbh. If theres no replys I think i'll just go with it and plumb the turbo return to the top of the header tank.
 
  ValverInBits
I've been meaning to bring this up to date for a few days now, so here goes.

I originally had a golf gear linkage, bought separately for the engine. Turned out to be the wrong cables for my gearbox (02J) not sure why.....but I found this one in a local scrappy off an old B4 passat.
It's old, but It's tighter than a nuns tw@t

P1020330.jpg


P1020334.jpg


I measured up the cable lengths and from lever to the end of the cables, it's no longer than the golf one. So I'm assuming these are the shortest cables I'm gonna get. Have to make do then!

Offering it up, it clearly had the potential to fit...... but it wasn't quite happy.
The back stuck out too far toward the handbrake.
.....so the back got the chop.

Having mounted it I found that one of the arms inside the shifter stuck too far out the back. I was just about to cut a slot in the trim for it, but then I put the grinder down, had a cup of tea, and decided to modifiy the arm instead.

Complete arm from inside the gear shifter:
P1020351.jpg



P1ss poor piece of welding. Some scrap 3mm plate I had. Never mind, it'll hold.
P1020352.jpg


Cut the new metal down to size:
P1020357.jpg


Remove the old metal that was getting in the way:
P1020359.jpg


I removed a touch more after that, but it's a perfect fit now:
P1020362.jpg


P1020373.jpg


P1020377.jpg


P1020378.jpg



Then there was feeding the cables through to the box. The cables are too long, but they were always going to be. I've looked into modifying the cables, and I couldn't do it. Not a chance. So I decided to send them over to the wrong side of the transmission tunnel, then bend them back across to take up the excess length.
That's why the hole went here:
P1020380.jpg


Cheap die grinder and a tungsten carbide bit (very usefull these things)
P1020383.jpg


Before too long:
P1020384.jpg


Fitted and shifting. The trim even fits in nicely!
Need to find some good cable clamps for the cables in the transmission tunnel so more on that later.

Made a little plate from some 1.5mm I had to cover the underside of the gear linkage. Using the OEM gasket too!
P1020388.jpg


Made a quick start on the water system, just saw something I could do with the top rad hose and thought i'd get it done while the thought was there.

Both the hose and the plastic joiner (a chopped down thermostat housing) are parts from my late polo SDI (RIP the lethal Diz).
P1020390.jpg


P1020391.jpg


P1020392.jpg



Oil Cooler, lines, turbo feed and water feed and return have all arrived in the post. Just working out a few things with the water lines (please see above). ThinkAutomotive are being very helpful (and fairly good value), but they are terrible at answering the phone!

P1020401.jpg


These Setrab coolers are stunningly crafted. Absolutely flawless. This is a super wide one, I think it's a 300mm core, 15 row.
I'm doing mounting atm. I'm trying to find some thick foam tape. I've seen it before. I want to bolt through it. You can't vibrate these coolers (ie bolt then down rigid) and I think this could be a good solution.

Cheers.
Any comments on the water lines in post 201 speak up. I've ordered it now!
 
Last edited:
  Williams20V-306BHP
Looks good, there is only one inlet into the bottom of the expansion tank... just T this into the Heater Matrix pipes. Then use a take of from the top hose to the top of the tank. I wouldnt return it from the turbo tbh.

the std Vag cars have a take of like this... Plastic hose joiner the same size as the top hose and about a 20deg angle but it has a 10mm take off built in.... perfect! I might have a spare if you need one?

Flan
 
  ValverInBits
Looks good, there is only one inlet into the bottom of the expansion tank... just T this into the Heater Matrix pipes. Then use a take of from the top hose to the top of the tank. I wouldnt return it from the turbo tbh.

the std Vag cars have a take of like this... Plastic hose joiner the same size as the top hose and about a 20deg angle but it has a 10mm take off built in.... perfect! I might have a spare if you need one?

Flan

The top rad hose is now not the highest point in the system. So if I T that off as an expansion line (to the top of the bottle), I'm almost gauranteed an air lock.
I agree with you on the bottom hose from the expansion tank, it makes no difference to send that into the heater matrix return.
I'm going to trial sending the turbo water return line straight to the top of the expansion tank. I think it'll be fine.
 
  ValverInBits
I lost my camera! so i've been pretty slack with the updates. Found it again now though, so i'll have to get some pics soon.

I've finally completed the VW engine loom, and the renault starting/charging loom. There's also the LC-1 Wideband lambda in there too. Wiring this car has truely been a PAIN IN THE ARSE.
Also managed to "make-fit" the existing renault rad fan, saving some monies there.

I'm sure theres other stuff i've forgotten to mention. But the interesting part is, I've started the car and driven it up and down the drive. Pretty fukin chuffed with that tbqfh.

What's left to do:
Bulkhead Plug for the Emerald - Always what I wanted to do. I've sourced socket and plug from a rover MEMs car (400 iirc) which Emerald borrows its connections from. The ECU will sit it the glovebox with a short connecting loom running to it.

Pin Down the battery in the boot - shouldn't be hard. Might just get a battery box, not sure where to source one cheap

Change the trackrods - It's currently running Williams widetrack using standard length track rods. This means the rods ends are wound out a long way with just a few threads holding them. I'm pretty sure that i'll want to put williams track rods in to sort this.

Gauges - RevCounter, anyone know what the pins are on the renault loom? I've got a gauge for the LC-1 Wideband that needs to go in too. The renault oil pressure is working a charm though - uses a valver pressure sender.....chuffed with that one.

Immobiliser - It's got an aftermarket alarm. I hate these things with a passion. The central locking works, but different parts of the immobiliser work sometimes, and don't work others. For instance the start solenoid works when it's supposed to, but the switched +12v wire in the engine bay only works sometimes. I'm going to be doing a lot of swearing chasing that fault.
I have to keep the aftermarket alarm for insurance purposes (as it's a Ph1 with no immobiliser as standard).

Then theres:
MOT
Insure
Tax
and mapping - I'm trying to contact Matt@TDF about that. The car will be limited by the compression ratio. With it being an AGU 150bhp block, it's quite high compression for a turbo car (9.5:1 I think). So I'll run it on tesco 99 and hope for the best.

I'll try and get some pics, but don't expect them before early next week!
 
  Iceberg 172
Feckin awesome mate!

I had a polo 6n2 running the KO4 setup maxxed out basically with 3" dp, Revo Stage 3 map, fmic, etc etc so probably a bit over 280bhp and it was bloody mental.

This thing with the 28rs will be utterly madness!

Good luck with finishing it, would love to see it one day at a meet / show!
 
  Williams20V-306BHP
Looking good dude... but dont even concider anyone other than dave to map it!!! It will end up like the Revo maps (way to lean) ive seen so many K04's white and cracked from revo mapps.

also Tesco 99? what you playing at. when i ran mine you could feel the difference with opti.

what intercooer you running dude?
 

wilky19

ClioSport Club Member
  Leon FR 184
Change the trackrods - It's currently running Williams widetrack using standard length track rods. This means the rods ends are wound out a long way with just a few threads holding them. I'm pretty sure that i'll want to put williams track rods in to sort this.

well done for getting it moving under its own steam. its a great feeling when it moves of for the first time.

also the track rods are the same length on both valver and williams, the extra width is gained in the arms of the steering rack.
 
  Renault Clio Super 1600
Hi mate. Why don't you consider Jabbasport for your mapping? I know people may not like them because they are VAG specialists but they are awsome with 20v's. I work with quite a few race cars with 20v's in and they all go to jabbasport.

They mapped my Clio S1600 Rallycross Car. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTHkDe2mVQ0

Nice project!!:D
 
  secret
Just read through this as i plan to do a 20v turbo on my ph1 172. Have u finished this now? Some fantastic work gone into all that
 


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