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TwentyValver Project Thread
- Thread starter Mark One
- Start date
Wow... love the engine colour scheme 
Christopher
ClioSport Club Member
Z4M
Great work!!
ValverInBits
Thanks for the kind words everyone
Phil really really liked that color, I hated it, so it went.
Update in a few ticks. I've basically been without internet for ages and the project has slowed up a bit as i'm back at uni now.
Phil really really liked that color, I hated it, so it went.
Update in a few ticks. I've basically been without internet for ages and the project has slowed up a bit as i'm back at uni now.
White ds3
looks like a sweet project m8
ValverInBits
First things first, the driveshaft story.
The idea is to end up with driveshafts of just the right length, that don't touch the chassis legs at any point in the suspension travel with a renault outboard CV and a VW inboard CV
Separated out the renault shaft from the outboard CV
Also managed to separate out the VW inboard
For the smaller shaft I borrowed a lathe and turned down the VW shaft so that it'd fit inside the renault.
For the larger shaft, I used a bit of sheet to bulk out the renault shaft and slot it into the VW.
Using a lot of trial and error, turning the wheels lock to lock and jumping on the car to get an idea of the full travel the shafts had to cover I eventually decided on a length and put a weld tack on each shaft.
The mock up shafts then went up to GB Engineering in Nantwich. The total cost of them in the end was a little over £300, this was reduced from about £380 because I had to wait for them so long. If i'd of known, i'd of used reco-prop in luton.
Heres the mock-ups and the finished shafts. I'm pretty pleased with them.
Just waiting to find another valver outboard CV (PM me if you have for cheap) before I put them on the car. The hub-nut threads are fubared on one of my originals.
Finally managed to source a G60 flywheel from winston (cheers mate)
Using a G60 fly ditches the standard dual mass flywheel. I didn't know what these were until I had a play. It replaces the springs in the clutch. The clutch surface of the flywheel is allowed to rotate inside the flywheel itself on dampers.
G60 left, Dual Mass right.
It's common practice to use G60 flywheels with VR6 clutches to give a peak torque capability around 380-390lbft
Brand new VR6 clutch
Clutch release bearing replaced
And refitted the gearbox
With the gearbox on I had the timing marks to do the cambelt. Auto-tensioners are bliss
Trying to work out how long my Aux belt needs to be. I'm ditching the power steering pump and the water pump is on the cambelt, so it's literally just for the altenator. I've measured it at around 906mm
Tried refitting the engine. The bracket that holds the PAS pump fowled on the subframe, so that had to go.
Grinding off cast ally is quite tough. I killed my beloved grinder.
Bought a new grinder and finished the job
Engine went back in without a glitch
And a big moment i've been waiting for - Had a cheeky trial fit of turbo and manifold.
Clearance.
It does clear. And there is enough room for engine movement (i intend to buy stiffer mounts anyway). The main worry is that the turbine is too close to the plastic vent in the bonnet :S
My current plan is to remove the vent and do a weld and smooth job on the bonnet. So the bulge will remain, but there won't be an indent or a vent. Initially however, I'm just going to move the bonnet catch up and have it sitting up (lovin it judd?)
Subframe
I've been sh1tting myself about this for ages. This is properly safety critical. If it's not strong enough, when I jump on the brakes, the wishbone will break loose. So i had to get it right. Its was never going to look nice, and in an ideal world i'd of designed and made a whole new subframe for the car.
This is what I've ended up with. It's similar to what flan has done with his 2. I've used a plate inside the subframe that extends the full length of the cutout. Then 2 more bits of plate bent round to cover the cut-out. Theres a further brace at the front where I was able to miss the sump. After that was done, I welded a 3mm wall thickness f*kin Girder on the bottom to make sure. I'm glad I left this till now, as my welding has really improved and i was pleased with the outcome. The box section will be closed to finish.
C+C welcome. I'm looking for a mongoose exhaust now as the downpipe needs to be started shortly (another job for Jon Deeley who did the manifold)
Work still to do:
Subframe finish/paint/powder-coat
Downpipe
Boost piping
Oil Circuit
Water Circuit
ECU and loom
The idea is to end up with driveshafts of just the right length, that don't touch the chassis legs at any point in the suspension travel with a renault outboard CV and a VW inboard CV
Separated out the renault shaft from the outboard CV
Also managed to separate out the VW inboard
For the smaller shaft I borrowed a lathe and turned down the VW shaft so that it'd fit inside the renault.
For the larger shaft, I used a bit of sheet to bulk out the renault shaft and slot it into the VW.
Using a lot of trial and error, turning the wheels lock to lock and jumping on the car to get an idea of the full travel the shafts had to cover I eventually decided on a length and put a weld tack on each shaft.
The mock up shafts then went up to GB Engineering in Nantwich. The total cost of them in the end was a little over £300, this was reduced from about £380 because I had to wait for them so long. If i'd of known, i'd of used reco-prop in luton.
Heres the mock-ups and the finished shafts. I'm pretty pleased with them.
Just waiting to find another valver outboard CV (PM me if you have for cheap) before I put them on the car. The hub-nut threads are fubared on one of my originals.
Finally managed to source a G60 flywheel from winston (cheers mate
)Using a G60 fly ditches the standard dual mass flywheel. I didn't know what these were until I had a play. It replaces the springs in the clutch. The clutch surface of the flywheel is allowed to rotate inside the flywheel itself on dampers.
G60 left, Dual Mass right.
It's common practice to use G60 flywheels with VR6 clutches to give a peak torque capability around 380-390lbft
Brand new VR6 clutch
Clutch release bearing replaced
And refitted the gearbox
With the gearbox on I had the timing marks to do the cambelt. Auto-tensioners are bliss
Trying to work out how long my Aux belt needs to be. I'm ditching the power steering pump and the water pump is on the cambelt, so it's literally just for the altenator. I've measured it at around 906mm
Tried refitting the engine. The bracket that holds the PAS pump fowled on the subframe, so that had to go.
Grinding off cast ally is quite tough. I killed my beloved grinder.
Bought a new grinder and finished the job
Engine went back in without a glitch
And a big moment i've been waiting for - Had a cheeky trial fit of turbo and manifold.
Clearance.
It does clear. And there is enough room for engine movement (i intend to buy stiffer mounts anyway). The main worry is that the turbine is too close to the plastic vent in the bonnet :S
My current plan is to remove the vent and do a weld and smooth job on the bonnet. So the bulge will remain, but there won't be an indent or a vent. Initially however, I'm just going to move the bonnet catch up and have it sitting up (lovin it judd?)
Subframe
I've been sh1tting myself about this for ages. This is properly safety critical. If it's not strong enough, when I jump on the brakes, the wishbone will break loose. So i had to get it right. Its was never going to look nice, and in an ideal world i'd of designed and made a whole new subframe for the car.
This is what I've ended up with. It's similar to what flan has done with his 2. I've used a plate inside the subframe that extends the full length of the cutout. Then 2 more bits of plate bent round to cover the cut-out. Theres a further brace at the front where I was able to miss the sump. After that was done, I welded a 3mm wall thickness f*kin Girder on the bottom to make sure. I'm glad I left this till now, as my welding has really improved and i was pleased with the outcome. The box section will be closed to finish.
C+C welcome. I'm looking for a mongoose exhaust now as the downpipe needs to be started shortly (another job for Jon Deeley who did the manifold)
Work still to do:
Subframe finish/paint/powder-coat
Downpipe
Boost piping
Oil Circuit
Water Circuit
ECU and loom
Renault Clio 16v
the vent in the bonnet is metal!
sweet update!
sweet update!
ValverInBits
Monaco 53/468
stonkin work
TVR Cerbera
all you have to do now is worry about the strength of the rest of the renault subframe, lol
Liking the driveshafts
turbo looks good, like i mentioned on msn perhaps put a bit of heat reflection shiz under the bonnet as its going to get reet hot.
As for lifting the bonnet up, dont think it would suit the look of this car with its none shiney FMIC and ghey wheels. Smooth over the hole is a better job, also stops drops of rain hitting your 1000 degree manifold and turbo.
But, those driveshafts... lol one is half the size of the other! you better beef up your forearms boy... this b**ch gonna squirm
As for lifting the bonnet up, dont think it would suit the look of this car with its none shiney FMIC and ghey wheels. Smooth over the hole is a better job, also stops drops of rain hitting your 1000 degree manifold and turbo.
But, those driveshafts... lol one is half the size of the other! you better beef up your forearms boy... this b**ch gonna squirm
ValverInBits
not straight answer really. The original spec was good for about 340, then I had money troubles, the new spec is good for around 280.
I hope to fit my forged rods, drop the compression, stronger clutch, and 430/440cc injectors and go for the limit of the turbo which is safely around 340, but that's when I've got the cash to do it. :dapprove: Plate LSD is on the list too
ValverInBits
I'm trying to get my hands on a drive belt (aux belt, alternator belt whatever. I'm not running the PAS pump so it's custom length
I went to halfords yesterday, but they said they can't search their database on length. I even had to point out to them the code system of the belts they already had on the shelf that gave length in mm and then "g" which means 6 rib.
I've measured it as a 6 rib 906mm, So I think I need some thing around 910mm, the 923 I got from halfords yesterday is too long really, it'd just work though.
Where can i buy a custom length belt? On the web or at a shop?
I went to halfords yesterday, but they said they can't search their database on length. I even had to point out to them the code system of the belts they already had on the shelf that gave length in mm and then "g" which means 6 rib.
I've measured it as a 6 rib 906mm, So I think I need some thing around 910mm, the 923 I got from halfords yesterday is too long really, it'd just work though.
Where can i buy a custom length belt? On the web or at a shop?
Renault Clio 16v
Tried GSF?
M
mini-valver
Ring Gates or similar directly?
TVR Cerbera
or just google it, that's how i got mine
Looking good so far... liking the turbo position.. very good!
for the belt. I cut the old one and wrapped it round the pullys to calculate the length. I think with your measurment it may be to short, then i laid it flat and measured it.
Halfords are retards!! it says what length they are on the box and on the belt... they have loads in stock.. i got mine from there.
intresting to see the cut out for the sump.. i had to cut a little more than that. Have you had to modify the other side. Its very close on mine to the bolts under the gearbox.
Flan
for the belt. I cut the old one and wrapped it round the pullys to calculate the length. I think with your measurment it may be to short, then i laid it flat and measured it.
Halfords are retards!! it says what length they are on the box and on the belt... they have loads in stock.. i got mine from there.
intresting to see the cut out for the sump.. i had to cut a little more than that. Have you had to modify the other side. Its very close on mine to the bolts under the gearbox.
Flan
ValverInBits
The cut-out is fairly tight. I'm banking on not a lot of engine movement, and I'm considering VF engineering mounts to replace the VAG ones.
The gearbox oil drain on the other side is currently sat on the subframe, and I've had to remove the N/S bolt. I'm going to have to take a slight nick out of the subframe to get it in properly, but it really won't be a problem.
910mm is about the shortest I'd go. I reckon a 915 would be about perfect, but the 923 is certinally too long.
yoof, thanks for the helpful comments :rasp: I'm considering a turbine jacket.
ValverInBits
Getting really busy now so progress is slowing massively. But I've managed to get the car 6 miles (don't ask) to John Deeley to have my downpipe made up. Car is now back again and the downpipe just came off to have the lambda boss put in.
It's all stainless, even the lambda boss. 2.5inch, then bolts straight onto the mongoose. No cat required as shell is 1992.
Next on the list is to sort the gear mech. It's a cable gear shift, the one I currently have was pulled from a B4 Passat. Flan did his first one very stealth and mounted up the gear mech in the OEM location even with a renault gaitor and gearknob. I've decided that i'd rather have the gearstick nice and high right up next to the steering wheel (more go than show). I've had a play with some mounting ideas, but not enough time to try any yet.
More on this when I'm less busy
It's all stainless, even the lambda boss. 2.5inch, then bolts straight onto the mongoose. No cat required as shell is 1992.
Next on the list is to sort the gear mech. It's a cable gear shift, the one I currently have was pulled from a B4 Passat. Flan did his first one very stealth and mounted up the gear mech in the OEM location even with a renault gaitor and gearknob. I've decided that i'd rather have the gearstick nice and high right up next to the steering wheel (more go than show). I've had a play with some mounting ideas, but not enough time to try any yet.
More on this when I'm less busy
This is a pretty damn awesome project
Though if you ever sell it, the person looking after it will have a b**ch of a time working out what replacement parts he needs LOL
Though if you ever sell it, the person looking after it will have a b**ch of a time working out what replacement parts he needs LOL
