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The everlasting ph1 ITB Build **GREEN-BUILD STARTS AT PAGE 100**



bashracing

ClioSport Club Member
this is a diagonal spilt service brake system with load sensed (compensator) rear axle
main-qimg-717810d492f68f531ead2b6ee4e243ff.jpeg
 

bashracing

ClioSport Club Member
this diagonal circuit is preferred due to the fact that if you burst a front hose you still have some braking nfs our for example where as if you do a simple from treat split you will only have the rear brakes and we all know how poor they are.

should have read

this diagonal circuit is preferred due to the fact that if you burst a front hose you still have some braking nsf our for example where as if you do a simple front rear split you will only have the rear brakes and we all know how poor they are.

sorry for making a mess of your thread mate
 

Pauleds

ClioSport Club Member
  Merc Dueliner sport
this diagonal circuit is preferred due to the fact that if you burst a front hose you still have some braking nfs our for example where as if you do a simple from treat split you will only have the rear brakes and we all know how poor they are.

should have read

this diagonal circuit is preferred due to the fact that if you burst a front hose you still have some braking nsf our for example where as if you do a simple front rear split you will only have the rear brakes and we all know how poor they are.

sorry for making a mess of your thread mate

Yeah that is what's supposed to happen bit as most of us join the 2 rear lines to go through a bios valve, potentially all fluid could be lost. That's why I make sure my mechanical handbrake works well too!! ;-)
 

bashracing

ClioSport Club Member
Yeah I know matey but the trouble is the handbrake will typically pull 250 kgf total in a car weighing 1000kg travelling at 100 mph it's not efficient enough
 
Ahhh how did i nearly miss a good brake debate... lol

If you remove the compensator valve youll need something else, as a bias valve (ap racing) didnt reduce the braking effort enough.

I use 2 x inline Ford pressure reducing valves, along with a bias valve, now works perfectly at long last.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
If you are starting from scratch mate, I personally would pipe it all in with a bias valve. The compensator is piped up as a diagonal braking circuit, so it can cause headaches when you decide to get rid of it, not to mention money and time wasted!
Ahhh how did i nearly miss a good brake debate... lol

If you remove the compensator valve youll need something else, as a bias valve (ap racing) didnt reduce the braking effort enough.
I use 2 x inline Ford pressure reducing valves, along with a bias valve, now works perfectly at long last.

Sounds like its this route, or go the same way as what @Tony Hunter has then and keep the compensator and not run a bias valve
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
UPDATE:

So the car hasn't progressed massively over the past few weeks, but as said before any progress is good as it all needs to be done. I haven't touched the shell at all since the last update, just not something i have fancied, but i have carried on refurbing the many parts that will be bolted back on - these are all being stored back away once refurbed to fit once the car is prepared. Brake callipers are now all done, as is the cup brake compensator and mounting bracket and a few other bits i think.

IMG_4413_zpswjcnttwm.jpg


These cute little bits also turned up this week. Very excited about these.... cheers @NorthloopCup

IMG_4412_zpsdjhvn588.jpg


I have also spent a considerable amount of time trying to polish out my headlight lenses from the fog they had, its taking ages, they are a lot better than they were but still covered in minor scratches. I guess it just needs more time/effort.

IMG_4414_zpswwtfmoam.jpg


next up the pedal box, and getting on with the shell again....
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
little UPDATE:
Managed to get a bit more time on the headlights this week, proper effort to get these done, and although they are not 100% they are a hell of a lot better than they were, and fine for a track car... all sealed and drying.

IMG_4446_zpsjg9ddry6.jpg
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
UPDATE:

So got full day working on the car today, it doesn't seem like much looking back over the images but i have been solid all day.
First up was to finish off the headlights after letting the sealant dry, a final T-cut and then couple applications of Autoglym Super resin polish and extra gloss protection and then are all good, now packed up ready for the rebuild.

Next up was revisiting another item that i looked at a few weeks ago but couldn't complete. I needed to sort something to seal the holes that used to except the fluid lines in my steering rack as i have decided to run with just a looped normal rack. I had a couple options but i spoke to my neighbour nicely and he managed to weld them over quite nicely. Perfect.

IMG_4447_zps0incfvh1.jpg


A little bit of fluid into the system, then some locktight on the threads and tightening the now sealed unions down. Once this was dry, a touch of paint to tidy it all up and then to package this up to store for the rebuild.

IMG_4451_zpsw6tjtid9.jpg


Next up was a bit more painting, this time to make some very orange bits, a little less orange.

IMG_4452_zpsprgjbyj2.jpg


And then hopefully the final bolt-on item to clean, paint and store away ready for the rebuild. The pedal box. this largely just needed a very good clean up but the rear cylinder was a bit rusty/deteriorated so this needed bit of paint, along with a cup master cylinder (to replace the phase1 cylinder).

IMG_4455_zpsngbspyb7.jpg


Pretty happy that i think i am now fully prepped with all the bolt-on parts, these have all been stored away nicely so when the rebuild comes they are good to go. What this means is i only have the shell to sort, this will take a while but its a massive step forward. To keep me motivated and inspired with what is to come i decided to put up a little inspiration ideas wall.

IMG_4456_zpshohzycrn.jpg


I also sorted some items out and am doubling up on some items such as batteries and battery cages, but also need rid of items that i just will not be using such as a full set of arch liners so will have some for sale soon. Until then, best get back to sorting the shell
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
UPDATE: a pretty boring one, and don't i know it....

another full day working on the underside of the car (now all the bolt on bits are done), it really didn't feel that i got very far, but its another large area of the underside stripped. The fuel tank area has lots of little indents, nooks and cranies so is a bit fiddly but happy to get it done.

There are some flares on the underside (just in-front of the fuel tank) unsure what they do, i thought they may be for downforce in some way, or they may protect the fuel tank front stones from the front wheels),

IMG_4511_zpsrplpe7ht.jpg


I was pretty confident that they weren't strenth related though and i really want to streamline anything if possible, so they disappeared. This now leaves the spare wheel area (which is already flat floored) and the wheel arches.

13417518_10150644434074970_6113951749756664832_n_zpsbfmaxzfd.jpg


There has been thoughts about potentially looking into a flat floor and whether that is worth it or not. The general thought is that it is not worth it as the car won't be low enough or won't constantly create enough speed for it to be worth it. The original plan was to run the radical front splitter with a diffuser at the rear (to fit the flat floored wheel well area and cut bumper) but the argument will be, is this even worth it without a flat floor on the main pan.... will the splitter and diffuser do anything? or just be pointless too?
 
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massiveCoRbyn

ClioSport Club Member
  Several
Fair play for tackling the sealant like that. I would have just sent it to a blaster lol.

I saw a bit of a seam welding chat and I would be interested in what problems your friend thinks it could cause?

I have heard people say it can cause cracking, but usually only when the seams are welded all the way around, which you shouldn't do anyway really. 20mm of weld then a 20mm gap seems a fairly sensible guideline. Yes, eventually, you might start to see some fatigue in the shell, but I think it's very unlikely in the time you would own the car. My ex-works Escort shell has been seam welded, it's 20 years old and is still fine.

My OCD wouldn't let me not do it now you have it completely apart!
 
  182cup & 172 racecar
My old Rally Escort was stitched welded, just to allow a little flex, otherwise you would get windscreens cracking after a big jump. Tbh modern shells, esp Clio's have really robust shell anyway.
 

massiveCoRbyn

ClioSport Club Member
  Several
My old Rally Escort was stitched welded, just to allow a little flex, otherwise you would get windscreens cracking after a big jump. Tbh modern shells, esp Clio's have really robust shell anyway.

Were the Cup car shells stitch welded Tony? Never paid much attention!
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
Fair play for tackling the sealant like that. I would have just sent it to a blaster lol.
I saw a bit of a seam welding chat and I would be interested in what problems your friend thinks it could cause?

My OCD wouldn't let me not do it now you have it completely apart!

Tony plus a few other peoples opinions (people who race track and rally events) advising not to bother for various reasons (a few pages back i think). I was initially thinking it would be a good idea whilst i was here, but on reflection and speaking to various not doing it also makes a lot of sense. Its similar to the thought process with aero.

With regards to OCD, i am full of that so everything is being massively considered, want to do everything properly once - lucky i am in no rush... ha
 

gudger12345

ClioSport Club Member
  Ph1 172
The silver Ph1 with the rear difusser.
I think i am going to remove it though and just keep with a cut bumper
 

massiveCoRbyn

ClioSport Club Member
  Several
Tony plus a few other peoples opinions (people who race track and rally events) advising not to bother for various reasons (a few pages back i think). I was initially thinking it would be a good idea whilst i was here, but on reflection and speaking to various not doing it also makes a lot of sense. Its similar to the thought process with aero.

With regards to OCD, i am full of that so everything is being massively considered, want to do everything properly once - lucky i am in no rush... ha

Fair enough. I would do it myself. The car is totally apart and every little helps. You can only really do the shell once, so it's best to do it right first time in my opinion.

This comes from someone who has a lot of background in engineering and motorsport by the way. As I say, my OCD wouldn't let me not do it lol.
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
The silver Ph1 with the rear difusser.
I think i am going to remove it though and just keep with a cut bumper

I did look through your thread after i asked you, then realised which one was yours, whats your reasoning for removing the diffuser again?

Fair enough. I would do it myself. The car is totally apart and every little helps. You can only really do the shell once, so it's best to do it right first time in my opinion.
This comes from someone who has a lot of background in engineering and motorsport by the way. As I say, my OCD wouldn't let me not do it lol.

Totally appreciate your advice, and that was my thought process (i will only do this once), but the other part of my thought process is will me and my driving ability even notice the difference....
 

massiveCoRbyn

ClioSport Club Member
  Several
Totally appreciate your advice, and that was my thought process (i will only do this once), but the other part of my thought process is will me and my driving ability even notice the difference....

Oh definitely not, but it's nice to know it's right, just for nerd factor lol.
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
UPDATE:

So I may have potentially sold my custom Image Billet 95 wheels and the AD08's they are currently wrapped in. This wasn't planned, or at least not yet however a friend racing civics is in need of something and these seem to fit the bill perfectly. I was perfectly aware that for the clio they were not the ideal wheel for handling being 8" wide front and 9" wide at the rear, however they were wrapped in brand new (4 years ago) but unused AD08's, I was thinking I would use them initially when i got the car back on the road/track, get a little bit of wear but then sell them on. I am a little disappointed i won't see the car sat on them again, but I think this is probably better for the build (money and handling wise) and i probably won't be able to sell the tyres for that much later on.

So, in the short term i may need a couple of spare steel wheels to drop it down on, however in the long term i think i will go 15's, and i want something really light so potentially OZ superleggeras, but we will see, anyone got any other suggestions?
 

NorthloopCup

ClioSport Moderator
UPDATE:

So I may have potentially sold my custom Image Billet 95 wheels and the AD08's they are currently wrapped in. This wasn't planned, or at least not yet however a friend racing civics is in need of something and these seem to fit the bill perfectly. I was perfectly aware that for the clio they were not the ideal wheel for handling being 8" wide front and 9" wide at the rear, however they were wrapped in brand new (4 years ago) but unused AD08's, I was thinking I would use them initially when i got the car back on the road/track, get a little bit of wear but then sell them on. I am a little disappointed i won't see the car sat on them again, but I think this is probably better for the build (money and handling wise) and i probably won't be able to sell the tyres for that much later on.

So, in the short term i may need a couple of spare steel wheels to drop it down on, however in the long term i think i will go 15's, and i want something really light so potentially OZ superleggeras, but we will see, anyone got any other suggestions?
What about some green 16" superleggeras?! They're on brand new 205/45 R888R's and have covered less than 100 miles! Lol
 

Djw John

Scotland - South
ClioSport Area Rep
I dont like how you're selling everything Northloop!

How about some willys boner? SuperL's look good but they do look small for their size imo. I love mine on the RB though.
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
What about some green 16" superleggeras?! They're on brand new 205/45 R888R's and have covered less than 100 miles! Lol

I had thought about them obviously. But hadn't seen you selling anything and wasn't going to ask/pester you about them as didn't want to encourage you to sell up. PM me if they are going and a list of anything else that i may be interested in.
 

Nafoff

ClioSport Club Member
SMALL UPDATE:
Just more sound deadening/under seal removal, its a long/dirty job but getting there with the front passenger arch done, the rear passenger arch half done and the rear boot floor done that only leaves 1/2 an arch before the car will be turned over to do the other 2 arches. Excited about that.

IMG_4795_zpsydpuhdyo.jpg


Its also pretty much been confirmed that the wheels are on the way, this will give me the $$$ to spend on a cage, i am thinking the ORECA RACE cage, it seems to have a good structure and picks up in all the places you would want - without going too mental (still want to keep weight down). I have also been told the fit of these cages is very good compared to others on the market, I do want to add in a couple more bars in to strengthen it a bit more, but lots of time to think about that.

Then i will need to source some new wheels, thinking i will hold out for some 15's now, and pretty much already minimised the list to OZ's ultraleggera's or Superleggera's, but again plenty of time to decide
 


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