Bozo's 182

[scullyg40]

Roll centre makes the steering response improved and also has a dramatic effect on the handling. The diff isn’t as noticeable until you put the power down out of a junction/bend etc.

I understand when you feel the diff, but when the roll centre correction is noticable, isn't that clear to me.

 

[NorthloopCup]

I understand when you feel the diff, but when the roll centre correction is noticable, isn't that clear to me.

Buy a kit, fit it to your car and drive it. I guarantee you 100% you’d notice the difference immediately. It’s one of those strange sensations that until you’ve experienced it, it’s hard to describe.

 

[scullyg40]

Buy a kit, fit it to your car and drive it. I guarantee you 100% you’d notice the difference immediately. It’s one of those strange sensations that until you’ve experienced it, it’s hard to describe.

It's on my wish list, right next to a lsd. Don't know which one to go for first, maby @bozothenutter can inform me on that on short notice.

 

[bozothenutter]

Welcome to the latest and final episode of 'Pimp my gearbox'

 

[bozothenutter]

It's on my wish list, right next to a lsd. Don't know which one to go for first, maby @bozothenutter can inform me on that on short notice.

Get the kit, you can always sell it on...
Tomorrow the teardown starts....?

 

[bozothenutter]

pffff....two days on....

gearbox is on, but it is amazing the time you loose on small s**t that won't cooperate.....

still to do:
steering rack
subframe
RCCK
clean and check dampers......
align the lot

so basically EVERYTHING!

 

[bozothenutter]

s**t got worse.....looked up flywheel bolts again....wrong torque....s**t has to come off.....

 

[bozothenutter]

turning a two day plan into a five day job........
almost done tomorrow should be the last day, just some detail stuff and putting the final parts back on.
Then onto alignment and enjoyment!

 

[bozothenutter]

six day job actually.....

in my pigheaded stubborn wisdom I decided the rack should be centered in the housing...
why on earth would be firm set the rack EXACTLY as it should be?
Of course I know better.....

sigh

the result was there was no adjustment left to properly align the car, no idea why, and no time left......

Only after a chat with @NorthloopCup and looking at some parts was my stupidity revealed.....

into the breach once more I guess.....

 

[bozothenutter]

this is what took me 5 days to do:

To Do

• Set car on ground and torque up wishbones
• Put wishbone braces back
• Set camber
• Set toe
• Do a testdrive
• check all bolts etc after a week

Done

• Loosen shock top nut
• Loosen hub nut
• Remove bumper
• remove radiator
• remove headlight
• remove battery
• Wheels off
• Drain gearbox
• Calipers off and hung out of the way
• Discs off
• Remove driveshaft nut
• Remove wishbones from subframe
• remove hub from shock
• Pull hub off driveshaft
• Remove driveshaft
• Remove shocks
• Support engine and gearbox
• Remove dogbone from gearbox and subframe
• Remove clutchcable
• Release gearlinkage at gearbox end
• Loosen steering shaft on rack (note position of knuckles relative to each other)
• Remove steering rack PAS lines
• remove subframe stiffener plates
• Remove subframe
• Remove rack from subframe
• Mount new rack
• Mount new track rods on rack
• Center the whole rack and make sure the shaft is in the same position as the old one(SHOULD NOT HAVE DONE THIS!!!)
• Remove ARB
• Replace ARB bushes inner and outer
• Remount ARB
• Mount rollcentre corr wishbones (old version powerflex bushes) do not torque up completely yet!
• Put clutchcable on lever and pedal
• Remove all wiring, plugs, etc from gearbox
• Remove upper gearbox mount tripod
• Release gearbox to engine bolts
• Remove gearbox
• Pin crankshaft
• Remove clutch
• Remove flywheel
• Clean and inspect crankshaft flywheel flange
• Replace oilseal
• Clean new flywheel mounting face (alignment?)
• Mount flywheel with new bolts and (Torque to 55Nm)
• tap in alignment cup
• Mount new clutch and cover
• Grease release bearing tube on new gearbox
• Mount release bearing
• Grease clutch pivot point with new pivot point
• Check all moves smoothly
• Put gearbox back on
• Reattach all wiring
• Put driveshafts back on
• Fill gearbox
• put tripod back on new gearbox
• put sub frame partially back on
• align pinion with column
• reattach PAS lines
• reattach all lines that attach to sub frame
• remount radiator
• tighten subframe completely
• tighten column to rack bolt
• Clean coilovers and check nothing is seized
• Replace bearing in Pure topmount (forget locking washer on one side)
• Remount coilovers at the top
• Mount hub to shock bottom
• Mount wishbone to hub
• Put studs in hub
• Put disc back on
• Put caliper back on
• remove one shock to put locking washer into top mount
• Put gear linkage back on
• Fill power steering and move wheel about while filling
• put coolant hoses back on
• put ecu back
• Put battery back
• fill coolant system partially
• Start
• Try and find gears
• fill and bleed cooling system
• Put wheels back on
• Set height at front

 

[bozothenutter]

finally done!
steering is AWESOME!
Super precise and direct, rack is quick, but not too quick.
This morning booted it out of a familiar corner to test the diff and no loss of drive.
Flywheel is only very very slightly harder to drive off with, but the effect is most noticable when blipping for a downshift (as I'd hoped it would be)
The place I rented the lift, did alignment for me, not quite convinced by there skill, but needed a drivable setup, so proper alignment is next.
gearbox feel very good, as it well should be, only 'problem' is that fourth gear engagement feels like porridge ie no positive engagement.
All other gears have a very nice mechanical engagement feel to them @NorthloopCup ?

some random pics:

 

[bozothenutter]

Pfffff...'nother two day job....

New wishbones (new type Powerflex), new ABS sensors....and thet ball breaker....new rear bushes...all in now!

had a problem with funny handling since fitting the quick rack and the RCK.....thought it was the rack....don't think it was.
I think I dropped the lhd hub on its steering arm. This created a nick about 0.3mm high.
this allowed the conical piece ( to drop the track rod to seesaw over the nick
Couldn't make it do that when torqued up, but it always bothered m,e that the problem only was when turning right....
small bit of filing sorted that.