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Silver 182 - 172 cup spec



Its been raining and or windy every day so havnt been able to finish the bumper. Although fitted a new silicone hose for the intake and cleaned up the airbox and new stainless bolts, breather just zip tied for now, have an idea involving going through the bulkhead for that but will wait until everything else is finished.

Also will order some ducting for the airbox for cold feed, paint fuse cover and in time finish off the inlet, new rose joints ordered as well as noticed n/s is now quite loose, o/s still has resistance though, have lasted a long time on the well made english roads.

You may or may not notice the change in top mount colour ;) BCs are now on. I removed the coilover and upright as one so my camber didnt get thrown out, not easy holding the whole thing with one hand and doing them up with the other!

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So in a bit of a dilemma about finishing the pedal box if anyone has any advice? I have all the parts needed, just the fabricating and brakes lines to do now. But its not exactly straight forward, so firstly the car needs a brake bleed (oem setup) to even be driven as after trying to find a leak I couldnt, I think the mc has packed up, Ive had to do this a few times now but didnt want to put a new mc in since Im doing the pedal box.. Im at my dads now as well with the car parked on the road so working here isnt easy. I drive it to wherever can do the fabricating, I kinda need this done before I can make the lines so the new mcs are in the right spot, now it means driving the car to my mums after this so I can make the lines, since it isnt a 5 minute job and I can do it, im not getting them to do the lines. But ill have to take apart the oem system, make the new lines, then take them off and put the oem ones back on and bleed it so I can drive back to the garage for them to bleed the new lines and make sure its setup correctly o_Oo_O Per the guide for the mcs, you need 3 people to bleed the car, as they open the front and back calipers together.. I have no trailer or anything and Im sure its a lot cheaper to do it as Ive said than get someone to put it on the back of a van, just means far more energy and time.

In an ideal world, Id have a garage and could weld and this would of been done a year ago. The only thing I can think of that would make things easier is to make up the new lines and then get it transported to a garage with everything still in the car, means driving the car up my steep driveway slope with just a handbrake onto the road (which is also sloped) as a van wouldnt be able to get onto the drive..

Simple to do, just a huge waste of time having to do all this
 
Getting close, will be clearing out the garage for the car which will help massively, its not really sensible outside anyway doing brakelines IMO, especially if its snowing (don't ask how I know) o_O

I also picked up these ex f1 brake lines, well they say 2006 Honda f1 and considering the -2 and heat shrink I believe it, that eBay page has loads of other little f1 parts as well
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I didnt like the oil breather being a little filter zip tied to a hose so have done stage 1 which consists of aeroquip push on hose and AN fittings that go underneath the wiper assembly, out of the way and looks tidier. Stage 2 will be a proper catch can but the only space for it is the driver side close to the blower which Im not keen on but Ill think of something, I know the cup washer bottle is smaller than the standard 182s so possibly could get something tucked in there.

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Put the wiper motor back in before I thought about pics but you can see how its tucked, nothings touching though
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Those brake hoses I bought are not both -3 to -2, one is -2 to -2, but has proper raychem heat shrink, I want to use the -2 ends for the calipers then just use the atec fittings I have already for the other ends, hopefully the hose is -3 and not -2. Kinda sacrilege cutting open geunine f1 parts but they were 15 quid each better than hanging on the wall.
 
@Filters I waited too long for this. Pas fluid seeping through the boot, just noticed it today doing some work, boot coming off tomorrow now. Checked above and the rez is bone dry so not leaking from above. Ive noticed a more vauge center steering recently and kept turning the wheel while checking that the wheels are turning and just kept telling myself its okay because I dont want to deal with this, this is what Ive spent all the time and money trying to get rid of!

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Filters

Wales - South
ClioSport Area Rep
@Filters I waited too long for this. Pas fluid seeping through the boot, just noticed it today doing some work, boot coming off tomorrow now. Checked above and the rez is bone dry so not leaking from above. Ive noticed a more vauge center steering recently and kept turning the wheel while checking that the wheels are turning and just kept telling myself its okay because I dont want to deal with this, this is what Ive spent all the time and money trying to get rid of!

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That the PMS quick rack? Exact same failure as mine had so has to be a fault with the manufacturing process. They’re not fit for purpose one bit IMO, piss poor build quality as they fail so quickly. Send it back and get a refund. Buy a @BRT Motorsport quick rack and go EPAS, you won’t look back. Customer service is miles better too!
 
  renault clio 2005
Should be easy enough to sort mate, my kangoo had everything programmed out apart from one of the sensors as without it, the raid auto lock function did not work. If all else fails bang a 2nd hand airbag ecu in and start from fresh
mines doing the same. would it need new airbag and ecu? thanks
 
  renault clio 2005
mines doing the same. will it need new airbag and ecu? thanks
Should be easy enough to sort mate, my kangoo had everything programmed out apart from one of the sensors as without it, the raid auto lock function did not work. If all else fails bang a 2nd hand airbag ecu in and start from fresh
 
As you can see from the pictures, a huge mess and a faulty rack, some 200+ quid worth of lines not to be used again and whats to replace all that! Such a waste of time and energy but its experience doing the jobs so at least that. Also f**k not doing any of this without the makita, honestly has saved me and am looking at 3/8 drive impacts now to do smaller things! I still use it for m5 bolts though its just too heavy.

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Well at least it will free up some space though the abs pump is going back in, also the abs loom is in now

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Yanoo stiff shift, probably should of done this years ago!

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Tomorrow Ill clean everything up and mount the new rack to the subframe and remove the dash to get the column in to start tackling the wiring. Then Im just waiting on a turn buckle and 172 cup alternator setup to get rid of the pas pump and ac. Steering, brakes, gear changes are all being changed/overhauled, also will investigate a jerky throttle, possible lambda, it should feel like a new car after all this.
 
Few more things done. Gave the subframe a very brief clean to get rid of all the pas fluid, although dont want to mount the rack and frame until Ive done the alternator setup, should be here soon. Column is bolted up and ready to wire, If I can ill use the oem power wiring which means just joining the control box to the other wires so not much to do. And yes theres a truck load of tape on the dash and support bar! A lot of the rattles have stopped, just a few persist but I know where a lot of them are now so will hopefully have a rattle free car soon


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Is all the brown stuff that thick sound deadening material ?
I took as much out as I could from up under the footwells in the race car, but didn't realise there was so much of it!
 
Managed to get the boot off the bulkhead plug to install the power wire for the epas (waiting on this just yet), you can see its the big clip missing. Also have a spare dash loom so have been taking that apart to grab an earth and to see whats what for future loom stuff.

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Official first crimped fitting made

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Have got the rack and subframe on, alternator on and epas all wired up, started the car up which was nice and smooth but I have no power to the steering so the next problem to solve.

Yanoo stiff shift, I had to sand down the plastic ball and cups in the metal housing as it was too tight on side to side movement. Is now all good and gear shifts are........ a little bit better :rolleyes: The gear selector bearing or bushing in the gearbox is pretty shot so it will never be solid until thats done.

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I used an oem plug from another loom to connect the epas, I just de pinned it and pinned it to the connector that comes with the controller.

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Not a very flattering picture but the mechanicals of the car are priority, Ill get to the cleaning stage some day
 

Mbeau

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172
Good to see you earlier mate. Your car is certainly getting there 👍 some excellent modifications and your can do attitude to doing everything on the car yourself is great. Felt lovely the short distance I drove it and I am sold on the EPAS conversion. Thank you.
 
@Mbeau Likewise mate good to catch up and Im glad you thought the epas was good as it really does work well when everything is functioning as it should!
Thanks mate I appreciate it, its come along way and is very close to its first track outing!
 
So I got carried away a bit and I hate my self for it. I decided to clean up and paint everything that was coming off because 'might aswell while its off'

Servo was really rusty, I sanded it back and all the other brackets and such, then a coat of kurust, primer then simonez tough satin black, which Ive used on my grills and has lasted well. I hate my self because Ive spent far too long sanding and grinding the imperfections away in the stub axles and brackets to the best I could, once Its all together at the back it will be very tidy, even though you wont see it lol

Ive also cut the f1 lines to length and put atec fittings on the end for the fronts

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Ive just put the pump in today and I have also given the bracket a coat of paint, the 'motor' or whatever its called on the pump also had a coat of paint

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Im going to fish the stub axles tonight and prep the calipers for paint tomorrow. Calipers and top mounts in anthracite, although Im contemplating some gloss clear coat to finish things off I think just a satin finish looks the smartest but I wont know until they're painted
 
Quite impressive how the caliper ended up facing up..

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Very lucky that the wheel stayed on (it was just resting on the studs) for me to coast to a safe place.

Wrote about it here:

Im 100% going to do the mk3 setup, Ive ordered the hubs and will then just check that the abs sensor can be mounted and the abs ring also fabbed to fit, the 182 ring is larger so will need a spacer of some sort, all seems doable from the pics.

Today I took the spacers off and put everything back to normal, the stub axle isnt damaged or anything and the wheel span straight and true. This has been a set back but Id rather be safe than sorry.
 

Brigsy

ClioSport Club Member
  T.Turbo
Ive never been keen on the spacers with nothing to hold them in place apart from the bolts. What grade were the bolts used? Could always add a sleeve inside to take the load off the bolts.
 
Ive never been keen on the spacers with nothing to hold them in place apart from the bolts. What grade were the bolts used? Could always add a sleeve inside to take the load off the bolts.

They are 10.9 as they come from pms but I bought extras and could only find 10.9. The sleeve idea would make sense as they arnt exactly snug. Have you seen the mk3 rears? The oem bolts (hopefully you can still buy them) have that wider unthreaded part on the bolt. Im looking at pads for the rears, thinking ds1.11 or pagid RS4-2 as to not put something to aggressive and mess the balance of the brakes up. I want the whole brake setup to be overkill so I dont have to worry about it!
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So with whats going on at the minute in the world and whats going on for the car I decided to treat my self.

Makita 3/8s brushless 12v impact. Rated to a claimed 290nm although thats very optimistic. But it serves its purpose being extremely compact and light as you can see compared to the 1/2. Also a bunch of sockets, extension bars and the 3/8 wera to add to the 1/2.

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I realised I never updated after I fitted the epas setup.. All I need to say is that anyone considering it shouldnt hesitate one bit, I think its essential to have the right suspension geometry as people that fitted it to their 172 with 2deg caster must of had a crap time with the steering wondering everywhere. Having the increased caster and quick rack increased the steering feedback and helps give the self centering that people complain it lacks, mine has plenty and the assistance is set to max at all time..
 
The garage has had a major change! This was at its worst, not a place to work in. I moved a few things around and tried to get some order but theres only so much I could do. It was my birthday the other day and decided to treat my self and go all out and make the most of the space I have, the table is 1600x600 stainless steel and the cabinets are all sealey modular, I was looking at entry level tool chests but the reviews put me off so I thought I might as well just buy decent stuff which will last a lifetime. I also bought a press, vice (tucked in corner for now) and loads more tools so Im not left stranded doing a job, Its all organised and in one place.

I have those TDS still tucked away but without the brembos being machined for 280 discs Im stuck for now, I still have bigger jobs to finish first, but Im eager to get them on!

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Im going to grind the legs back on the press to make more room and the vice isnt bolted to the table yet, cant really do this any other way but its all 100% usable and as ergonomic as possible!

I bought a new seat a while back (Sabelt Titan XL) As you can see its not exactly large and Im snug with a 31 waist
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A while ago I also fit scenic rear hubs and calipers which after needing a lot of work has all worked. The 182 abs sensors are reading the scenic abs rings which are larger, the hubs need some filing to fit the abs sensors also. Due to the caliper design, I had to buy a o/s handbrake cable for the n/s and route the o/s one differently, also went to braided lines and just made one line that connects straight to the hardlines which I also made custom with smaller i/d line, with the caliper being a bigger piston, this should help with the intial balance of the brakes before the abs kicks in. It was a lot of work, but it all works and most importantly, they are held on with 4 m10 12.9 fine threaded bolts, no more counter sunk!!

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A mock up picture before I finalised everything
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This is without spacers!

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Apart from a new oem caliper, everything is the usual rusty and un aesthetic, this stage is to get everything mechanical working, when I can get a larger space to do this, then I can start stage 2 which will be getting everything cleaned up!
 

Crayola

ClioSport Club Member
You need to write up exactly what you did for those rear brakes! Ever since you mentioned doing it I've had the parts waiting😂

Got some MK3 Clio rear calipers with new discs, handbrake cables, sensors and lines too. Got a rebuild kit for the calipers as well but they're the smaller piston type as I don't wanna go overkill with the rear brakes. Best thing is theyre the same pad as MK2 PH2 Megane or MK3 so plenty of pad options!
 

Chambers_RS

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172 Cup&Leon K1
View attachment 1491407View attachment 1491408View attachment 1491410View attachment 1491409View attachment 1491411

A mock up picture before I finalised everything
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This is without spacers!



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Apart from a new oem caliper, everything is the usual rusty and un aesthetic, this stage is to get everything mechanical working, when I can get a larger space to do this, then I can start stage 2 which will be getting everything cleaned up!


That’s interesting.
I didn’t realise there was options to change these other than the Clio versions. That’s why I went for PMS billet Twingo kit.
What size discs and bearing you now running?
 
You need to write up exactly what you did for those rear brakes! Ever since you mentioned doing it I've had the parts waiting😂

Got some MK3 Clio rear calipers with new discs, handbrake cables, sensors and lines too. Got a rebuild kit for the calipers as well but they're the smaller piston type as I don't wanna go overkill with the rear brakes. Best thing is theyre the same pad as MK2 PH2 Megane or MK3 so plenty of pad options!

Its fairly straight forward but there are quite a few changes that had to be made. Firstly the bolt spacing for the hubs, the scenic hubs are the same for the top 2 bolts but bottom 2 are slightly more narrow and down, I used a die grinder and took my time, made sure to keep putting the hubs back on so I knew I was taking away what was needed. What you could also do is use a drill with a guide, this would probably be the best and quickest way to do this and you could get the holes perfect, I didnt really have the tools to make it as you need to drill out the middle of a plate.

Then were the abs sensors, the hubs had to be slightly grinded for the abs sensors to fit and for them to be the correct distance away from the rings. I had to also use a washer between them as they were fouling on the rings otherwise. As you can see, they are angled the wrong way in the hubs, but there was enough length of cable for this to work and I used some p clips under the bolt into the sensor to secure the cable. I also notched the beam to make room for the sensor and so that they can be removed without having to remove the hubs. The hubs being internally threaded and the sensors being easily removed make this a really easy setup to work on!

Brake lines I thought theres no point in running the 2 small flexis as I wasnt enthusiastic on making hard lines at the time so opted for braided, I used atec fittings and some fibreglass sleeve for protection near the exhaust and to give some extra abrasion protection. I did a bit of a custom jobby and used black and gold in the 90deg swivel fittings because no other reason than it looks good 😄

Handbrake cables were just a case of running an o/s for the n/s and re routing the o/s under the fuel tank, its secure for now but Id like to come back to it and see if I can get a longer one made to use the same routing. Because the way the calipers are mounted the cables run over the top rather than at the bottom.

With all the parts this could be done in a day, took me longer as I kept bumping into 'issues' though they were all easily sorted.

The discs are 274mm so a fair bit larger than oem! Im running 300mm up front but with the tds will have to go back down to 280. May seem overkill but firstly they look awesome in the wheels! 😄 I always thought the oem discs look a bit like bicycle disc brakes. But most importantly is how they are mounted to the beam, its a far stronger setup now and scrolling a few posts up you can see why I was eager to get this setup on. Also a bigger bearing so should be more reliable on track. More pad options and cheaper too being 197 calipers and what a lot of other cars use.


That’s interesting.
I didn’t realise there was options to change these other than the Clio versions. That’s why I went for PMS billet Twingo kit.
What size discs and bearing you now running?

Im not sure of the bearing size but Im under the impression its bigger. I need to find out the exact info for them.
Yes Ive read your thread and saw you used them. Your build is awesome! And like the recent garage overhaul, makes all the difference.
 

Chambers_RS

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 172 Cup&Leon K1
Good little conversion you’ve found either way 👌🏻
The bearing size was the main reason I went for the PMS/Twingo setup, obviously I’ve not tested the kit 🙄😂
Thanks, I follow your thread as very detailed in the finer details 👍🏻
 
Good little conversion you’ve found either way 👌🏻
The bearing size was the main reason I went for the PMS/Twingo setup, obviously I’ve not tested the kit 🙄😂
Thanks, I follow your thread as very detailed in the finer details 👍🏻
Just found a bearing, not sure if its exact but It seems it. 25mm inner, 55mm outer and 48mm long. So 3mm more outer and 11mm longer (according to a thread on here) If its good enough for a people carrier with the kids and dog in the back then should be up for the job on a clio espeically a lighter one.
 

Touring_Rob

ClioSport Club Member
So with whats going on at the minute in the world and whats going on for the car I decided to treat my self.

Makita 3/8s brushless 12v impact. Rated to a claimed 290nm although thats very optimistic. But it serves its purpose being extremely compact and light as you can see compared to the 1/2. Also a bunch of sockets, extension bars and the 3/8 wera to add to the 1/2.

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I realised I never updated after I fitted the epas setup.. All I need to say is that anyone considering it shouldnt hesitate one bit, I think its essential to have the right suspension geometry as people that fitted it to their 172 with 2deg caster must of had a crap time with the steering wondering everywhere. Having the increased caster and quick rack increased the steering feedback and helps give the self centering that people complain it lacks, mine has plenty and the assistance is set to max at all time..

I really like Wera tools - I have been meaning to buy a set of their joker spanners for ages now!
 


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