Can anyone help with a MTB problem please?

[WillC788]

My bike started making a clicking noise last month so I took it back to where I bought it (it was new in April) and they replaced the pedal assembly. All was fine for a while but when I took it out Friday (after riding twice in a row in heavy rain, though that is probably coincidental) it was making a nasty clicking noise from the same region. This occasionally becomes a cruch (think sticking a car in reverse too quickly) and having had a play it seems like the spindle is loose.

I've looked at the thread below...

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=238540&highlight=bottom+bracket

...and others because I suspect it is the bottom bracket but there are a couple of things I wanted to check:

• The first thing is, would this be a warranty job? I do a lot of miles but mainly by road (average each week is probably 60 miles), so the bike doesn't get abused and is well maintained.
• The second thing is, is it OK to ride it at the moment until it is repaired beacuse it sounds awful and I'm worried about doing more damage?
• Finally, if it does cost to repair, how much will it set me back in terms of labour to repair?

Thanks (and apologies for a long post)!

 

[Fletcher]

That sounds like the Bottom bracket to me, they don't last long, unless you go for the newer sealed XTR XT, crankset with the hollow BB.

iirc things like BB are not covered by warranty.

 

[WillC788]

Thanks dude, it's what I'm expecting. Just gutting that the bike is but a few months old. Would it be the fact I do a lot of riding out of town and take hills (on the road) at speed? Am I stressing it too much?

 

[Fletcher]

Thanks dude, it's what I'm expecting. Just gutting that the bike is but a few months old. Would it be the fact I do a lot of riding out of town and take hills (on the road) at speed? Am I stressing it too much?

I used to have lots of problems with BB, some would last 12 months, some would go after 4, depending on how many races, and how muddy the bike got, yes the harder you ride it the more chance of the BB not lasting as long.

If you want to get a really got BB and chainset then i'd go for XTR.

 

[WillC788]

OK, I'll look into that. Is it something I could change (my skills are limited but I'm willing to learn) with only standard household tools? I don't have any bike tools myself.

 

[Fletcher]

No, Fitting BB requires specialist Shimano tools.

A good bike shop should fit you a BB quite cheap though.

 

[terribleclio]

you can buy the shimano tools though. easy to fit tbh.

 

[mini-valver]

I used to get through loads of BB's! What cranks are you running? Square taper/ISIS etc? Square taper BB's are pennies mate (£10-15 for a UN52). It may be your pedals though, try some different pedals on before you start taking the arms and BB out!

 

[JAMESSRICH]

dmr v8's and grease the threads!

had the same fault on my cape wrath d27 - pedals sorted it

 

[WillC788]

I used to get through loads of BB's! What cranks are you running? Square taper/ISIS etc? Square taper BB's are pennies mate (£10-15 for a UN52). It may be your pedals though, try some different pedals on before you start taking the arms and BB out!

Lol no idea mate. When it stops pouring down I shall venture down the garden and have a look. What would be wrong with the pedals to cause this then? I'm afraid I'm no expert.

 

[terribleclio]

Silly question, but did you clean and dry your bike after riding in the rain?

 

[WillC788]

Silly question, but did you clean and dry your bike after riding in the rain?

Yeah I always do. Is the rain likely to have affected it? Chances are that I have stressed it too much and damaged it as it wasn't a hugely expenisve bike (although I do look after it and it's a decent make) but I won't admit that to the shop; I shall try and blag a warranty repair.

 

[WillC788]

Ok, I've heard that if I the pedal assembly wobbles on the drive side (which it does), it'll be really dear - is this the case? I'm definitely going to push hard for a warranty resolution.

 

[Pep]

if you're having to get a new BB go for an ISIS drive one, however this will mean you'll need new cranks.

the ISIS are better if your giving it death, have more splines on them so can take more force.
I've got a faceface on in my Kona and that has lasted about 4 years of very heavy abuse from heights etc, I've never treated my bikes with respect when doing things on them, if it breaks it breaks, lol!

 

[WillC788]

if you're having to get a new BB go for an ISIS drive one, however this will mean you'll need new cranks.

the ISIS are better if your giving it death, have more splines on them so can take more force.
I've got a faceface on in my Kona and that has lasted about 4 years of very heavy abuse from heights etc, I've never treated my bikes with respect when doing things on them, if it breaks it breaks, lol!

Expensive though?

 

[mini-valver]

No, whoever told you that has no idea, lol.The drive side on a sealed BB is the whole assembly, the non drive side is just a cup. A Bb is about 10-15 quid if it's square taper. £25 ish for ISIS.If it was'nt an expensive bike the pedals will just be no sealed bearings and any grit that gets in them make it crunch like mad. I'd try some pedals off another bike first if theres no play in the crank arms. Hold both arms and pull side to side to check, if you can only feel it in one of them just tighten the bolt on the end of the crank arm (8mm allen key)

 

[ja.jack]

Must book the velocipede in for a service beim mini-valver.
Sounds like he knows about them. lol

 

[Pep]

if you're having to get a new BB go for an ISIS drive one, however this will mean you'll need new cranks.

the ISIS are better if your giving it death, have more splines on them so can take more force.
I've got a faceface on in my Kona and that has lasted about 4 years of very heavy abuse from heights etc, I've never treated my bikes with respect when doing things on them, if it breaks it breaks, lol!

Expensive though?

depends if you have to get new cranks, which you will if you dont currently have the ISIS on them.

i think i payed £90 for a RaceFace BB and crankset including bash guard. Only a 2 sprocket set though.

 

[mini-valver]

Ja.Jack, I'm lost!Pepsi, theres NO point swapping to ISIS for commuting. Square taper is fine! In fact, I use square taper Powerbites on my Revvell which gets punishment in parks and trails! ISIS is well overated....

 

[ja.jack]

I'm lost. lol

 

[mini-valver]

Alzeimers? )

 

[ja.jack]

Vielleicht. lol

 

[Neil G]

Sounds like BB....is there any play in the crank arms

Agree on isis being better, the more splines equalls more strength. I used to reguarly wreck square taper cranks.

 

[WillC788]

Thanks for all your help. It was a warranty job, just the BB, so it remains standard until I have the problem again. Mini-valver you sound like a true expert! It was Halfords that told me that by the way!

 

[mini-valver]

Make sure it's always tight, if it feels rough, take it out, clean it and grease the threads. ISIS is'nt necessarily any stronger. Turbine LP's are square and last forever, My Primo Powerbites are square and you wont find a stronger crank ANYWHERE! As long as the arms are on tight it wont round....

 

[rory182]

UN52 / UN53 / UN54 whatever they call em these days square taper sealed bottom bracket around £15 last for years.

UN72 on my Orange is 9 years old and sweet as a nut. Raceface on my giant seems good too, hollow axle external bearing jazz.

 

[Neil G]

Make sure it's always tight, if it feels rough, take it out, clean it and grease the threads. ISIS is'nt necessarily any stronger. Turbine LP's are square and last forever, My Primo Powerbites are square and you wont find a stronger crank ANYWHERE! As long as the arms are on tight it wont round....

Powerbites are okay....new school and prone to causing damage to your ankles with them pinch bolts though !

I've ran set of original Profile race cranks with a US BB on many BMXs since 1997....they're still going strong !

I've heard that generally the quality of Profile stuff has slipped over the last few years...I've certainly seen a few people at parks/trails with broken casettes.

When assembling cranks copper slip is a good lube to use to prevent seizing as as tis man says above....regularly check the bolts to make sure everything is nice and tight.

 

[mini-valver]

Profile were amazing about 3-4 years ago when they were less popular, now they sell more the quality is definately worse. Although a mate has just had a rear hub on his Macneil Ruben and it's awesome. I smashed my ankle first day I had them but I've altered my style and have'nt done it since