Recent content by Nick Read

Fluorosilicone (or whatever it's called exactly) are basically for oil / petrol transfer. All silicone hoses can withstand a bit of this, but these ones are lined with an extra resistant layer inside to cope with it. Same stuff they make the soles of Doc Martens with. High temp is just what...

Good work! Any more clues?

Post a pic of your engine bay, and the dimensions of your throttle body and the CDA and I'll work out what you needed. I once got a super-fat CDA (from a BMW Z3 3.0) into the gap between my valver's gearbox and rad, and managed to get it hooked up to the TB successfully, so it can't be any...

Leda in Braintree, definitely. Gaz are nearby in Basildon, but I don't know if they're into a lot of development work. Leda have a good reputation for turning their hand to any suspension job, and I've never ever heard a bad word about them.

For the record, my best run (at Santa Pod, mind) was a 13.359@107.36mph and that was off a 2.3 sec 60ft. Did 4 other close runs that day, slowest came out around 13.6@105 IIRC, all on the 19th Feb 2005. There's a lot more to come from that Clio yet, I'm sure Adi will do the job and get it...

YOu've just contradicted yourself. One minute it's 'regardless of mods they are a bodge', the next minute 'it needs to be mapped to be correct'. So unless you don't count remapping as modding, there can be some value in using a pbv. Depending on the extent of your mods, and your fuelling...

So where's the auction site?

LOL cheers. Over the years I've tried every single induction mod that was ever thought of, and some that weren't, so I've got a pretty good idea of what works, what fits, what's a waste of time etc.

True, if it's intended as a stand-alone modification.

The Renault code for my hub nut is P R77 00 422 361 A7D05 NUT and it's about 19/20mm ID, normally handed so that turning clockwise will tighten. Nor sure if each side is handed differently? Better check. Anyway, it's the big nut that you see right in the middle of the hub when you take the...

I've posted quite a detailed explanation on another thread here somewhere, one where a valver had been bodged when removing a PBV. I'd say do the plumbing yourself (remember to remove the fuel pump fuse then turn the engine over until it stalls and runs dry before tackling any pressurised...

Foglight hole is fine for induction. As the filter is 'uphill' from there, there's no great danger of anything heavy getting up there - there's not as much pressure in that pipe as you might think. Flies are not a problem, stones are. If you're going to mesh it, don't bother with fine stuff to...

BTW from what I can see, at the moment you have NO fuel pressure regulation at the moment. Your engine will run as long as your pump's OK but it's not right and stuff will start to knacker up soon. Your fuelling will be out of whack and at the very best it'll be costing you fuel economy.

LOL WTF! That's one hell of a bodge. Seems you've got two bolt-in-end-of-pipe problems. I've not looked at a valver engine bay for a couple of months, but IIRC it goes like this...The factory fuel rail has a connection at the o/s end and half way down. One is flow from the fuel pump and the...

Well if anyone needs the big castellated hub nut then I've got one still bagged up from Renault - if anyone wants it, Paypal me a couple of quid and I'll stick it in the post for you.