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Morning. ideally you need to get a volt meter on to the brake pedal circuit and see what’s happening when you press the pedal. I suspect you’re pulling down a GND but without knowing the wiring on your specific car, I couldn’t say for sure or where.

Yeah, we can take a look in to it for you if you like Daz? Renault seems to have caved a little now and are letting some Independents with legit CLIP and ASOS access perform updates. They pulled it from us (I know Kev at Armstrongs was another effected), along with some other services, without...

Here’s the section from the manual for you

Unless it’s already been forced on, ,you *shouldn’t* be able to put it on in any other position. If it had been forced on, I’d expect it to have been a complete hoof knuckle to remove to, so we can probably rule that out. There’s no scientific explanation I can offer, as to why the wheel is now...

There was a guy on a FB group who made a really good, high quality tool. I don’t know if he’s still making them as the usual group crowds claimed £100 was too pricey and would never sell. We purchased one and it’s been nothing but worth every penny!

8200248119 - Should be around £153+VAT at retail

We can look on R-Net to see if a car has a transmission software update available and if so, apply it. Sadly, it only seems to appear on vehicles 2014 or older. Later cars all had it as standard. As above, the clutch pack and shift drums will also need calibration afterwards.

When you manage to turn it off, how many “Beeps” does it give you? That’s a code which will explain what actually triggered it in the first place.

The cooling fan instantly running screams “Open circuit” somewhere.

Personally, I’d say take it to someone who knows what they’re doing. Only because code reading alone rarely delivers results, only more questions.

Chances are, it’ll be the crank position sensor at fault. A new unit should soon sort that.

Hi Lucas, First port of call would be to get it on some better equipment. Something that can give you a Renault specific DF code would be a far better starting point. My Mk4 RS had similar issues and ended up having some wiring to the H02's done under warranty, which ultimately fixed it. Find...

Looking at the video, I think it’ll be either your battery moving or the battery itself.

Morning Ed, It could still be the battery, so don’t fully rule it out just yet. How is it mounted? Have you checked the main harness electrical earth, at the back of the upper gearbox case? What about the secondary loom to chassis earth, behind the passenger headlamp (this one also goes...

If you’ve got a burning clutch smell, then that 100% is *a* problem... possibly *the* problem. Sadly you need to remove the transmission and inspect the clutch to see if it’s wear/tear/age or if the clutch has failed in some other way. The engine speed hitting a proverbial wall does indeed...

Somewhere like EFI or RSTuning will be able to clone your existing unit, if you have one.

If it’s a 3 wire setup, then most likely the coil pack itself will GND itself via the mounting points. In that case the pack will be x2 Triggers and x1 Power

Kind of - The software running across the entire vehicle network and individual machines is what determines which functions are deployed. The problem you’ll have is that clone CLIP won’t give you access to the software library and even if you did have access, it doesn’t list everything for you...

It’s a waste spark system, so it is very simple: Power <> switched IGN Relay controlled Earth <> Chassis GND Trigger (1-4) <> ECU Controlled Trigger (2-3) <> ECU Controlled Now you know what does what, you should be able to test and work out if and where you have a problem.

It’s possible the ECU has already been mapped and is locked out to the RST. It’s also possible that the ECU is goosed. Can you erase the faults, or does it give you an error here also?

Common as muck. Nothing to worry about but it’s most likely the front, inner ARB bushes. Pop some silicone based spray (GT85 is good, not WD40) and it’ll shut it up for a bit. New bushes ultimately though.

Ideally, needs CLIP at the time the EFL is illuminated I’m afraid, to see what’s actually getting its knickers all up in a bunch. It’s most likely either an output control issue or a connection fault causing your problem but I’ve seen a couple of ECU’s with age related driver faults cause...

From the sound of your first video, I'm sorry to say, it sounds like your timing has slipped and you've got no compression. Two ways to confirm/deny: 1 - Plugs out and carry out a compression test 2 - Check timing (Insert crank pin at TDC and check camshaft positions are correct).

Mk2 Ph1 cars have a pretty old fashioned IAC setup and chances are, the high idle is a result of either an air leak, worn throttle body or poor IACV seal (an uncontrollable air lek). The brake Res leak is probably down to the fluid vessel being knocked - has the engine been off the mount and...

I've got the slightly older brother of this, except wearing Makita trim - There are drawbacks to them but not many. Power Vs Versatility Vs Ability to last (Still talking battery grinders, honest).

What do you mean by "BCM" Phil? Our body functions are controlled by a UCH and they don\t tend to have anything to do with Alternator control. Assuming all failed alternators have been checked and confirmed as outputting the correct voltage but you're still getting charge fault warnings on the...

If you're certain its not the bleed nipple, it'll be the main seal which has failed. Common on these now and a S/Exch calliper is the fastest, most cost effective way of getting the car back on the road. They're like £50 a corner... but the time you've purchased the seal kit, removed it, rebuilt...

1806

Sounds like the installation setup isn’t quite right. I always find a second pair of hands really helps: Slacken the sleeved joint so it moves forwards/backwards on the rod and can rotate freely. Put the gearbox in to R, put the selector in to R (make sure you lift the gate switch and put a...

I've never seen those kind of speed fittings before... but I like! I'm certain the issue will be as you suspect, the weight/vibration has caused the hose joint to move a little and possibly cracked the pump outlet. Drop the tank and go from there. PS: The Van is epic!