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A hydraulic PAS pump will make some noise at first/true cold start as the ATF is thicker and harder to physically move... this is normal. In my experience though, a wine at deceleration specifically on these turns out to be a seized aux tensioner which isn't applying adequate pressure to the Aix...

As above, make sure the mechanism isn't seized up due to water issues. If it is, you may need to replace a blown fuse in the UPC after wards also.

It'll be a fairly simple engine on that output then - Any idea when it last had a fuel filter? I'd check the inlet track for restrictions and also have it plugged in to make sure the fuel pressure is correct. Was the EGR function deleted electronically to or just physically?

As per the link above, we use electronic throttles now which allows the ECU to control the idle directly... No IACV's required

What engine/power output?

The web says: https://support.apple.com/en-gb/HT204283

You need to physically examine them for condition... look for cracks and signs of other damage.

Very easy to do and as above: mock fit the rod to the box, put the box in to reverse, then the selector in reverse, tighten the linkage and go enjoy.

Sounds like the UCH but without having the car, it's impossible to say for sure... could be an issue with the ECU you've got also or maybe an electrical gremlin which has nothing to do with the hardware.

Was it a new UCH?

But that's not scientific... Scrubbing is scrubbing. The alignment check could highlight an issue with the geometry or it could be something really silly like a worn balljoint. The problem is (as above by Bloke) that without seeing the car, all we can really do is tell you to check the basics...

Tyres won't be helping! Have you had the vehicles tracking/alignment checked?

The boys at Birchdown are cracking and know this job well... You'll be in safe hands with them.

I am actually, yes. I've just got to give it a clean this weekend now everything has been migrated. Want a Thunder Bolt display to with AppleCare?

Here's the MBP alone. Then throw in some Apps and a bag... lets just call it what it was.... STOOOOOPID LoL

I did so much swearing at the TV on the unveil... I hated the new MBP. No SD was pretty much the main hate but that price hike to! Still, I went FULL r****d and purchased the top whack, all singing custom build 15" in Space Grey just before Christmas (It came in at £3750ish with discounts) and...

It'll be an easy enough job to diagnose and possibly rectify @GazzaCup

Hi all... OK, so lets get in to this one: The warning lights are functioning as expected when cycling the ignition and starting the car BUT as soon as the steering wheel position is altered, the little orange triangle with a car skidding light is the only one to illuminate? This is happening...

Loving the roof now fella, :THUMBUP:

So what you're really saying then is that the Central locking on your vehicle doesn't work. Start at the beginning and check all fuses on the passenger side dash panel.

Not silicone on the manifold to cylinder head joint? If so, I think we've found your problem.

As above, it is perfectly normal for it to cut out when the MAP is disconnected. It will restart and run without it but it won't be fun to drive.

Buy a set once, forget about them for another 5-7yrs. Second hand are cheaper but it will happen again, sooner if you go that route.

Heat shield or Manifold to CAT seal spring kit has pulled thru. You're gonna have to get under her i'm afraid.

Standard cams by the looks of it

Nah, it makes no real difference as they'll both be at TDC and it's the same with the ignition side of things to in that you can mix up 1/4 & 2/3 without it causing any problems.

Cylinder 1/4 will be in the same position so either of the outer two will be fine. For reference though, cylinder 1 is flywheel end and cylinder 4 is timing belt.

Injector(s)

Officially, you should yes but if you pin the crank and cams with the proper tool and don't touch anything else, you should get away with it. Fit a new crank pulley bolt!

This is why the original RS2 coil pack bracket fixed over that breather port.