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When you tapped the union to the pump Jon, did you use anything to 'set' the metal to the plastic? It's pure speculation at this point though. Until you get eye's on the leak of course. The plan of making a rubber feeder sounds good but there's no promise that won't rub, perish and leak at a...

Then next we run the ADAC test, to make sure the lamp itself does actually work and that the cluster hasn’t been tampered with (Ignition OFF > Press & hold the button on the end of the wiper stalk > turn the IGN on... Instrument cluster will come to life, chime, light up things, various needles...

Sadly not fella, sorry. The tool box is big and the Zoe isn't willing LOL When you turn the Ignition on, does the Engine Management symbol glow up orange somewhere down the bottom right of the instrument cluster?

The UCH/IMOB will cut the fuel pump and general power latch relay controls (Along with inhibiting the starter) and the ECU will drop the Injector triggers but this isn't an IMOB inhibit scenario. The ADAC is going solid red which means the UCH is reading and accepting a validated key code. If...

The safest way, if you're planning on mixing matched components, would be to Plastigauge the existing clearances and then use that value against the new cover to get within spitting distance of the original spec. If it's a larger clearance, you're likely going to have issues with oil pressure...

It won't be the fuel pump - Most likely cause is either power/earth/comms issue. When you turn the Ign on, can you see the EML illuminate in the bottom right? If not, there's the problem (No ECU on CAN).

It's been a while since I've fitted any to a Mk2 but I seem to remember the OE items spray a little low at speed anyway.

Sometimes you can get lucky with the cheaper items. Other times, not so lucky. I've always stuck with the PSA Original items for around £9-11 shipped and have never had a problem.

Probably cheap/clone eBay/ECP parts. Did they come in an official Peugeot/Citroen bag? If not, that'll almost certainly be the problem.

The fact you can smell it suggests it's an external leak rather than an internal issue (eg. Rings). Most common causes on these are: Top cover sealant has failed (Common with age) - Check rear joint for signs & Timing belt change *IF* required. ***DON'T USE SILICONE*** Upper breather plate...

I'll be in next Saturday but it'll be a bit of a busy one. If you wanted to pop in, just give me a call first on the number below to make sure I've not set the place on 0115-9721501

I'm closed until Monday 8th @James172 but I'll be in tomorrow until 14:00, if you wanted to pop over. Mick

It most likely did do but you didn’t notice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We’ve used this gearbox cast since the late 70’s, it’s an old strobe light marker. You need to peg the crank on cyl1/4 at TDC (0 degrees) and then check the cam timing positions relative to that. The cam timing notch is eccentric so the timing notches need to be on the lower half of the cams...

They're currently looking for a 10mm socket I've just dropped.

As I said to you on the phone James, I'm mega busy with box rebuilds and clutches. I appreciate it's a "Super simple" job but I've only got one pair of hands and if they're busy... sorry if you find that a bit strange.

Easiest thing to try is remove the spacer from the car and place it against the rear of the wheel by hand. If it fits perfectly, you're ok and of there's an issue you'll easily see it.

I've ran PMS stud kits for years and never had issues. I've seen some customers with 2118's have *some* issues with generic hub-centric spacers though. They're normally due to a silly taper on the rear of the wheel Vs a larger chamfer on the spacer. This stops the wheel locating against the...

Before anything else, when you put the key in the ignition and turn the key, what does the red LED in the centre of the dash do... Stay on solid, go out or flash at you?

As above, this is because someone has played about with the pointer positions and they're now wrong. See video above for the correct position when the key is switched to on.

They do indeed need C2i's coding but I don't think they'll make it drive any better.

You need to carry out a throttle service: Remove TB, Clean, Replace, Reset engine adaptive values - Job done! You will need access to some pretty good diagnostic kit to be able to reset the adaptive values though I'm afraid. Battery Off will not do this for you.

Yes, it was abused for the first 18 years of its life but the Sachs *still* works 2yrs after it was installed - Fact

What car, Clio or Megane? I run a Sachs on my Mk1 Clio and have had no issues from it in two years. I wanted Valeo, because I trust them but they were impossible to get but this won't be an issue on the Mk2 Clio.

Deffo do both if you can afford it - 5yrs piece of mind, assuming all genuine parts.

As above, the original batch were a Jenvey F4R manifold with spacers pieces to add the required length. The second gen had a custom manifold cast but I don't believe there's much between the two types when it comes to power results. The only thing I don't like about the first gen is the injector...

Fuel pressure required to start is 300Bar but the running pressure depends on what the ECU is requesting (It will specify "x" and you need to see what the actual pressure is compared to the reference value)

Start with a proper diagnostic session, rather than just replace parts mate. A good session with someone who knows what they're looking at will be able to tell you what's actually going on and what is most likely causing it. Mick

There is a mounting stud on the bulkhead which the mechanism needs to locate to. This is where most people go wrong and the cause of *most* noises when the wipers are being used.