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Buy the drop links from GSF in Lemforder/TRW... they're about £20 each and exactly the same as the units Renault supply (except they also come with the nylock nuts as Renault charge extra for them). Ball joints aren't available from Renault directly but they can be had from what used to be...
Officially, yes! The official way is to completely replace the outer part of the hub assembly and normally comes it between £600-850 a corner. Thankfully, we ca also replace just the bottom balljoint BUT it's still not the cheapest at around £130-200 per side depending on where you go.
Please, please, please... buy a GKN boot kit from Renault. They rubber ones from J&R/"the internet" are rubbish and they'll be dead again in a few months. The GKN units are a nylon construction which resists the build up of temp thru friction in the material when the vehicle is driving and...
My guess, bottom ball joints. If so, they'll get worse with time and the knocking will turn in to "play" in the lower hub assembly and eventually tyre wear.
On a Clio III RS, these "knocks" are normally due to either worn bottom rotary ball joints, drop links or top mount bearing units.
They're pretty tricky to diagnose and more often than not, it requires the part to be removed (in the case of drop links) as they're under pressure, even when off...
Remove the passenger front arch liner. Disconnect the horn and using a volt meter, check for the presence of 12v when the horn is activated.
This will tell you where the fault lays.
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Remove the under seat storage bin from the front passenger seat. Under that you will find a rather large connection... Check it and the associated wiring isn't damaged/corroded in any way.
This sounds very much like damage caused by the ingress of water.
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Agreed - I've not even seen the car and i'm pretty certain it'll be an injector causing a 10-25% misfire rate.
Just bang x4 brand new units in and be done with it
Either that OR the bottom pulley was just seized to the crank... another very common issue. Thankfully, the crank doesn't need to be floating to time these which is why Renault did away with it on the later F4R in the 197/200 (as well as the Turbos but that was for other reasons on the Turbos)...
Mine died recently and it was covered by Apple care. If however it wasn't, I was told around £60 for Apple to replace the battery... I thought that was a pretty reasonable price.
It is very important that the codes be removed. If they come back, you've got an issue somewhere either with the float, float signal or the wiring which the signal goes thru.
Very simply put, this is most likely to be due to the instrument cluster loosing the fuel level sender info.
Put some fuel in
Run the ADAC test
Clear any codes (j _ _ t)
Carry on as normal and see if it is resolved
Samsung did something similar though by updating firmware to stop the use of third party "smart covers"... Nothing real came from the complaints and Samsung carried on.
It royally fucked my Note4 up though whilst updating it and having a non-Samsung cover!
I'm the type of person that would...