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You have both my admiration AND sympathy taking this on. It took me nearly 18months to restore my Mk1 and it was by far the most expensive car i've ever done. Not to mention the lack of parts available... I swear I paid for most of Mat Browns wedding LoL

Cambelt Kit & Dephaser Pulley done - with proof - 26/11/2015 - Proof of purchasing the parts is not proof of having them fitted. Full Motorsport Exhaust System (DECAT) sounds very nice! - By "Nice" he really means "This will annoy your neighbours to the point they consider murdering you! K&N...

Welcome to the mad house that is Renault Clio ownership.

The ones I have in stock at present are also all black... when they're under the car, nobody cares.

Yeah, they do have different part numbers on Dialogys *BUT* they do fit okay. The 172 versions are both black cables where the 182 units have blue and yellow covers. #becauseRenault

As per Bloke above, the 3k RPM is a limiter which is being applied due to a fault (most likely on the throttle circuit itself). This is probably going to be either a wiring loom issue OR (if it's the later Twingo engine) it could be an ECU driver issue. Best thing to do first is get it on CLIP...

Pics of your Mk1 or it never happened :lol: I was told there's a company in Nottingham that can fully refurbish the Mk1 rear beam for around £140. I can't remember the name now but Matt Brown knows of them. That price may have changed as well so don't take it as gospel! Mick

That's the one and the connector is available to buy new also, making wiring pretty easy to. I believe it's a dCi only unit on these though and the Petrols run a pedal/potentiometer combined unit. Mick

I'd look to make it similar to the Megane II dCi setup... infact, you could possibly get away with using that actual potentiometer! It links the pedal to the potentiometer by means of a link rod - Obviously you'd need to modify the pedal to accept the link rod and make a bracket to mount the...

Some have multiple sections... I don't miss the old books as I use ink pads at an alarming rate. I do yes BUT I don't like rooting thru peoples car for them and normally ask people to leave them and the locking wheel nut key somewhere visible. If you want to post it or even drop it in, i'll...

Too late now, i've purchased all 6 sets from stock and they're now £500 a set lol Honestly though, they'e worth a punt at that price point.

Sorry for the poor image but our screens refresh rates are designed to stop this s**t. The O/S/F sensor is component '152' so pins 3 and 5

Yeah, they're s**t at the best of times unless you can under the filter. You want either a strap type or my personal weapon of choice, a Claw!

Might have a set myself at that price!

Yeah, you've broken injector No.1... new injector will be required i'm afraid fella.

They look OK to me and the price is proper Jewish which makes them perfect for track wheels. Any idea on weight?

This is exactly why I like to know where and why we don't win an enquiry as it's bread and butter work for us. If I am failing the customers I genuinely give o'f**k and whilst I appreciate we can't always fit a customers specific schedule or be the cheapest price out there, it is *entirely*...

We were only £520 including VAT and the dephaser Louis... I appreciate it wasn't until the end of the month. Just curious... was the price too high or was it turnaround that put us out?

The heat shields on the Phase 1's are held on by silly T25 dome heads and they round for fun as they've not been off since Jesus put them on at factory. They're the only tricky ones tbd but it's still not a 5min job.

Yeah, they're the same parts for all the X65 RS Phases. They are handed though but if you buy the genuine cables you won't have an issue. I think they're about £19+VAT each but that may not be retail (Well, they are when we supply/fit)

Some proper jews here still! An hours labour is going to be pretty standard for a garage to charge and anyone who say's it's a 5mins job is full of s**t.... It takes you that to get the car on the lift and the rear wheels off and that's before you've got to the minefields that is removing the...

It sounds very much like a poor earth issue. Ideally you'll need a multimeter to check/prove each earths "condition" but as you've already said you have little mechanical knowledge, it may be worth sending it to Mike @ Rentech. My guess is either the rear gearbox or behind the passenger...

Wow! So the car went in for a service without issue and it came out with a knocking which was diagnosed as "bent conrods"? Something really not right there and you really should seek a second opinion IMHO. Have you physically seen the rods yourself and confirmed that they are indeed "bent"? I...

Got the sunroof working again. Words cannot express how truly happy I am with this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got the original wheels back from refurb, new PS3's on so I took the cover off... flat battery... covered it again

Auto-Wipers or On Pos I/II? Mick

No power to anything is due to the general relay faults (These are what we refer to as the GMV relays and they control all the important shiz). Basically, you need to start simple by fault finding the circuits for them firstly... Control side: is the ECU 'switching' the earth? Switch side: Is...

I'd have to check but I think so yes Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Billi's are great but then again, so are the BCR's. I ran the BCR's on both my old Track Clios and had great fun on them. EDIT: We can do them for the £692 also but fit them and do an initial setup for that cash to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nope, you will need to remove the CV joint from the shaft to do this. Nylon, by design, does not stretch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk