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Clutch and fly for the box.

it's discontinued!!!!!!! (i'm just starting a rumour off)

completely different. what you trying to do?

run a wastegate on the inlet just before the body.

Yes it will pass an mot.

could be aux belt idler but would of made hell of a racket when it came off though.

slightly open yes, but still wouldn't run one without a stat in it.

I wouldn't run a sandwich plate without a stat in, you run the risk of overcooling your oil. For a temp sender ideally in the sump.

most kits are overpriced for what they are. i've just done custom boost pipework for a vx220 and with everything it worked out less than 1/2 the price one of the specialists does for an off the shelf kit.

genuine renault engine parts are stupidly overpriced!!!

you posted about this on idiotbook before?

seen 4 engines with a rod bolt go, for the sake of scrimping on a £100 set of bolts compared to destroying a complete build it's a no brainer.

you'd be fucked if you built an engine without a headgasket!!

tighten them up that way and the bush will naturally be forced outwards. not that it makes much difference with an old railing :p

dished washers are the wrong way round.

will be awful to say the least with that camber, or lack of, on the front.

It hasn't at the mo but just about to build a box up with an atb diff in it. It's had a dci box in so want as bad as standard box for spinning up in lower gears. Am on the wirral.

No way you should be fighting with a low boost car unless map/power delivery is bad or there is something not right about it. Standard box isn't the best when you run boost, bit too low geared/fd. Half decent suspension and decent geometry set up works well with them. 3 deg camber, 1mm toe...

elbow reducer will be fine. i get mine from ash.

2"

Will tell you when we Chuck the belt on this one o_O Always seen to have plenty left on the adjuster to tension them so don't see it really being an issue.

Should be a good one, high comp Pistons, block has been decked and skimmed a fair bit off the head. Hopefully it's near as dam it 13:1 and reasonably long duration cams as well.

sat unwinding after a chaotic day (normal) had an engine on build stand with no plugs in sat under our new super dooper led lights and noticed light coming from the exhaust port. took a minute or so to realise but snapped a quick pic anyway because it might be interesting to some.

yup, the green one that's corroded to death and will fall apart if you wiggle it for ten seconds ;)

crank diameter.

yellow is normally switched live. not got diagrams at home though sorry.

2k clearcoat.

that earth lead is not ok by the way.

cut the centre out of the clutch plate and grip that in a vice.

Can't remember off top of my head but find a crank seal online and it lists the sizes of it.