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as per above, most likely to be loose connection to the starter. The wire at the top is a spade connector and can come loose over time. easily fixed with drivers wheel off

Quote below taken from MSA 5.1. A rearward facing red warning light of a minimum of 21 watts, with surface area minimum 20cm2 , maximum 40cm2 , or of 21 watts with a surface area minimum of 50cm2 and with lens and reflector to EU Standards, must be located within 10cm of the centre line of the...

Does the standard spoiler brake light meet MSA blue book standards?

If it were me I would be keeping the Meg but then I don't have a wife an kids! Be a shame to see you sell it If you do though I could be interested :up:😂

@notfastnotfurious do you have a dyno graph? I seen andy posting about it on instagram an intrigued to see where it gained an lost over the standard inlet

Dropped it off at SWR to have it it checked over and a few things done.

Im sure i have them written down in the house. you tried messaging the lads who made it? @cliosportap @*renaultsport172 what holes are you blanking off?

well after further trial and error and replacing the crank sensor the issue remains so need to have it plugged into clip! unless anyone has any further suggestions?

Bumpity bump, Anyone in the central belt with clip? I have tried SWR an the first they can get the car in is next friday, ideally need the fault diagnosed before the weekend so i can fix it

I certainly have, called my local renault specialist this morning and after a discussion we believe it to be the crank sensor at fault. I have one of these ordered an to be collected today so hopefully should resolve the issue

I'm surprised at that tbh as i have never found them to fade on track when i have use them an your pushing far harder on track than on the road. 20+ hard laps on track with no loss in braking effort

After my last trackday I developed a missfire which also results in a backfire. Being a track car I have general spares so the following parts have been changed as a process of elimination. Coil pack, plugs, leads Idle control valve Lambda sensor Injectors The problem is still there! I have...

The tuner nut issue was why I opted not to buy them. Can't be arsed having them machined nor having 2 sets of wheels nuts

Calibre suzuka I think @Dr Jekyll

I'll be interested to see what the SM manifold makes with 438's as i have one to fit and currently trying to decide what cams if any to fit at the same time

If i had to use someone in scotland i would use russ at HQ in dalgety bay, also if the dephaser wasn't done at the last belt change i would have that done aswel. Buying cams, fitting and mapping of cams will be the best part of £1000 also if you plan to go turbo i wouldn't bother with the 438's

@tombutler33 which car out of the gen 3 & 4 did you prefer? and what were the significant differences in driving characteristics?

You dont *need* to modify the stat housing intake. The SM intake manifold does sit very close to the hose but doesn't touch it, well it didn't on my trial fit i done with mine

Standard wheels all day long for me. Doesn't suit the turini's

I love this Megane, looks so purposeful. Considering one as a daily but I would end up tinkering with it

Engine an box oil change fitted refurbished front calipers bled the brakes fitted new drivers side driveshaft raised the AST's 10mm all round washed it

decent figures, i would be fitting the head with 421's and the turkish inlet that was for sale on here.

I am considering having my spare ph1 head ported etc by ALD. Just looking to see what experiences/gains people have had from one of his heads as i know a few on here have used him for headwork in the past trying to weight up if its worth the cost or not

Indeed they are, with 2-3mm left on them its like driving on ice! when new they are superb. Rainsport 3's are good in the wet but not great. sidewall is a bit soft and as soon as it starts to dry there hopeless for track work

I use rainsport 3's in the wet at knockhill and R888's in the dry. Although i have to say a fresh unworn set of R888's are miles better than rainsport 3's in my experience, once the R888's have worn a bit though they are woeful in the wet

There not difficult to change, just a bit awkward if your doing it rolling about on your drive

I agree with JB21, i don' see the need for anything more than standard calipers on a clio. The standard calipers in good working order with good pads and discs offer great stopping ability. A set of refurbed/new standard calipers, some bake ducting, chnage to brembo HC discs, castrol srf fluid...

Its not as simple as just ordering the calipers. There aren't any that are a direct fit as such, all will need adapter brackets to allow them to fit to the clio hubs Various companies do wilwoods or similar in a kit form, K-tec racing, Pure Motorsport, Compbrake to name a few. Be worth looking...

I am currently in the same boat, have a spare ph1 head but not sure if headwork and cams are worth the cost/hassle for the gains they will give.

Looked at it, thought about taking it out for a drive but couldn't be arsed.