Search results

Great work john, good to see it coming to together. Hopefully the car is reliable an produces the times as that a chunk of cash you have thrown at it

I shall get it in for proper corner weighting and alignment before the next outing. Will reassess after that.

@JB21 I am leany towards the same thought as you with the front left being a fair bit lighter. Hopefully some more people with track/race cars chime in with further thoughts as its a PITA

Standard cup master cylinder so split evenly between the 4 ports. Its all as per this diagram

Alignment an corner weights are there or thereabouts but not perfect as not been set up with a Hunter or similar yet. Been set with string for now and i am usually pretty close, having some mapping tweaks tomorrow then i will get it booked in for a proper alignement

Recently renewed the complete braking system on my race car (used to run ABS but deleted it all). Car now runs hard lines through the inside of the car via a bias valve, all new calipers and flexis front and rear, new discs and pads all round. Also now run a 4 port CUP master cylinder with 1...

the bit looks bad, although they have a cost of £550 for the ARB's. The main cost has been in fitting and setting up the suspenion

@Tom Johnson that is surprisingly soft on the rear! The ARB must make a huge difference, would be interesting to know costs for such modifications

Never mind the mounting if the wire tow eyes. What’s going on with that rest of the front end?

@Raceface_13 I would not advise running it without being mapped to suit. The fueling will be all over the place, you could drive it gently an keep the revs sensible though as the lambda will allow that, it wont be able to adjust fueling for WOT though that is for sure

@doug6488 looks shite 😂

I don't think it has anything to do with it being a cup. My car is insured with Cage, buckets, harnesses, ABS/Airbag delete, AST's blah blah

I was more expensive this year at £270, and that's limited mileage and SDP no commuting. I was surprised it had gone up tbh

As it stands at the moment. Will be making a few changes this week though.

@White16valver i am going to clean all the earths tomorrow an then see how it goes, I also now have a spare stalk to try aswel. Hopefully resolve the issue tomorrow before testing later in the day

Measure your O ring an PM me the size. I have 2 spare master cylinders with O rings that are good. If I have one the right size I will post it with the brake lines

I have developed an issue with my indicators so looking for some ideas/clues as to what it could be. Indicators work fine until the side or headlights are put on. When the lights are out on the right indicator stays on solid (doesn’t flash), and the headlight is dull. I have made a quick...

Absolutely love it! the colour is superb

@dCi_rep I have a set of braided lines i am going to be selling. Front braided lines and also rear braided lines.........Rears go from where the hardline terminates at the back of the car before the axle to the caliper

Good to see more progress, but also sorry to hear about the family illness

Great to see it up and running again mate. Unfortunately mine isn’t getting mapped until the 8th of April so I’ll have the car up on the 25th but just to be checked over and have it weighed @John Lindsay

It must be killing you inside @John Lindsay fitting those shiny parts to the rusty rear beam! My OCD wouldn't allow it you out on the 25th for the TS day?

The cill panels can be had for not a lot of cash. I recently had a full cill replaced and some parts of the inner cill on a project car. was £400 all in, that included the panel, fitting and painting.

Good progress but i wouldn't be too impressed with some of the welding if that was my fabricator.

@GrahamS power/torque did it make?

Cup subframe is different to a Ph1 subframe i know that for sure. The mounting holes for the lower arms are located 5mm more outward on the cup subframe

Pretty sure if there is Ice on the track you wont be racing or doing a trackday, the number of times around a circuit where the quaiffe will spin the inside wheel is minimal. Although for purely racing a gripper is better but not without its issues

The quaiffe will spin a wheel if there is ZERO contact between wheel and ground (Lifting a wheel, over a kerb for example).

Those are the mods i think make the most difference rather than a diff. Especially around KH!

Gripper'd box one of those items?........