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Probably better to get 182 cup hubs rather than roll center kit seeing as it’s just road blasts and commuting. Also 182 cup dampers to fit to hubs. Pros are bigger wheel bearing, larger wheel flange and increased steering acumen.
try and use standard parts and you won’t have any...
@Hollidog. I did the change to the 4 pots for looks and a bit of weight saving. The Brembo’s are good, the brake peddle is a bit longer on the ph1 so I’ve got a master cylinder from a 197 that I’ve got to fit to try and shorten the peddle. I thought I’d try the ds1:11 pad as they have great...
The best setup I’ve tried for standard was RC6 front pads... Tarox 2000 vented disc front... standard disc rear with RC5 pads.... ducting to wheel well and RBF 600 brake fluid.
That setup can do half hour stints with 0 fade.
I’ve now gone with the brembo 4 pot setup with ds1.11 pads.and 2...
My cruise control would always speed up weather I pressed + or -
I got a good deal on a refurbed steering wheel with buttons and it cured the problem. Must of had a dodgy switch in my original steering wheel.
I have the Marks (aka @NorthloopCup) roll center kit. I have Ast suspention/diff/poly bushed everything.
on track it’s great..just about all understeer is gone. With all the trackdays/Sunday blasts in 4 years I’ve never had to replace drive shafts or cv boots.
the roll center kit does require...
@dann2707 my gauge didn’t come with a probe on the end of the capillary. It did come with one capillary line connected to the gauge already but no probe on the end. I’ve been searching online for a racetech probe but can’t find any. So thought the capillaries connect straight to the engine...
I’ve bought a mechanical Racetech dual oil pressure and temperature gauge. It comes with capillary lines. Has anyone fitted this type of gauge? Where’s best to connect the capillaries to the F4R?
oil pressure switch or a sandwich plate?
Any help much appreciated
Anyone know of a company or such that can print them with a 52mm hole in the center.
I know there’s a guy doing ph2 vents but doesn’t seem interested in doing them for the ph1
Any help much appreciated
I use RC5+ pads and OE discs on the rear as the Clio seems to scrub off more speed with those pads in there. A lot of people say the rears don’t do much but I’ve found they do help a lot. That is on track not down to the shops
Best setup with standard calliper I used was tarox 2000 disc with carbon Lorraine RC6 pads and moral 660 brake fluid. Never any brake fade on track. Amazing speed scrubbing and stopping power!
Ive never had any problems with the ktr/jenvey throttle bodies. They just need a service every now and again. Must admit mine is a fair weather weekend driver but I’ve had them over 6 years now run on gen90 ecu. You should get good results with them and groupe N timing. That’s with standalone...
@Tonyclio that’s about right for just bolting on a set of throttle bodies.
As a comparison I’m running the ktec bodies and high compression pistons and standard cams. Made 210bhp at ktec rollers went to Surrey rolling road and it made 201.5bhp.
That was 6 years ago so at cambelt change ktec put...
Had this for 3 years now 2000w and 160 bar. It comes with every lance you’d need..even has wheels on it!!..and an add bonus was my snow foam lance fitted it. The spray nozzle on the main lance varies from wide to very norrow which is perfect for the car. The only problem was the hi pressure...
Look forward to your build. Always loved a Sunflower. Good luck with it (y)(y)
I’d be going with the back power flex steering rack bushes as I’ve found no change in vibration etc from fitting them...same with the all the other bushes..I went with the purple for those ones.