Search results

Would it matter if they were 180 out with a wasted spark system? I'm assuming it is wasted spark. The cams turn once for 2 turns of the engine so just turn the engine through another full turn and they'll be offset downwards as should be for checking the timing. They definitely look out though...

I would have thought it would start without the aux belt. Can't see why that would stop it starting.

On a 172/182 when the aux belt goes and shreds as you have described it often takes the cam belt with it as the shredded bits get wrapped around the crank pinion for the cam belt and the cam belt then slips. But you don't have a 1*2 do you so it may be different?

I did it myself. Basically the same as an aux belt change, extra 15 mins to remove the alternator maybe.

The 182, the 172 still on the original at 132k. 182 on 55k! 150ish quid for the alternator from a motor factor.

That's what it says in the manual http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

Mine had an internal short in the windings, had the burning smell and was very hot to the touch. Also made more noise than usual due to the extra load on the belt. New alternator required.

My alternator developed an internal short. Just sounded like the power steering was always at full lock. You could tell if it is this by touching the alternator. If it's red hot it has a problem.

Yes it is 175Nm

I Measured my 172 cup and 182 FF and they were the same. 25mm for the ones to the chassis and 24mm for the ones to the lower arm. That was the actual metal bar so maybe the bushes are smaller to be a snug fit? Oh and my name is Barack.

From the Renault manual not Haynes. I've never found it to make any difference myself. – rear right-hand circuit, – front left-hand circuit, – rear left-hand circuit, – front right-hand circuit.

Take the blanking caps off the end of the cams and rotate the engine from the crank pulley until they are nearly aligned for the tool to go in. Then push the pin in. You can also remove a spark plug and check it is at TDC. I applied pressue to the pin as I turned the crank the last little bit...

You don't need to remove the rocker/cam cover unless you're changing cams or wish to re-seal it. I wouldn't replace the VVT pulley unless it is knackered, but if you can get a cheap one maybe it is worth it. Some people say yes to water pump others don't. I haven't ever replaced it. One of my...

I've seen this said also but never a definitive answer...

That's because you have a 172 cup. I got mine here...

Yes. Although not strictly necessary, I did as it greatly improves access. You need the tool to lock the cams in position. I got mine from ebay, for a one off use it is fine, if you were doing it everyday you'd want the Renault one as it is stronger.. Ideally you would also loosen the cam...

I've done it 3 times including changing the cams once. If you're competent and not in a rush it is fairly straight forward. Access is v. poor and you'll need a good selection of tools. Have you seen the manual? http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf Need tool to lock cams in...

Loose ABS ring, that only starts to slip at high speed?

Haven't used them in anger yet. Got them second hand off a member on here.

195 R888s are more like 205 width for "normal" tyres. I have 195/50R16 Yoko A048s and they are a tight fit. I removed the front arch liner to be safe. You won't be able to go as low as with 195/45 tyres but mine is still 30-40 mm lower. When I've worn these out though I reckon I'll get 15"...

Are these number lbft or Nm? It is 90 Nm for 172s and 105 Nm for 182s from the info I've seen.

This was caused by faulty throttle body on mine.

Take it back and get them to sort it if they broke it. Failing that try banging a smaller socket on to it with a hammer.

Cracked disc? Pads loose in caliper? I assume you have some material left on your pads?

I'd be thinking master cylinder for you f0xy. Roy I have the Renault tech note on how they do it. PM me your e-mail if you want a copy. It requires their "clip" so won't be much use except to convince you that's what it needs if it doesn't get any better.

If you want it to look good. You'll need to prime, sand, prime, sand, etc until it is smooth then paint then lacquer. You'll probably need to lacquer the whole wheel. I did mine. Takes time and the finish is very soft i.e. easily scratched. But much cheaper.

If you're only spraying a small section you need a proper match not just something close.

Surgi-Wax takes no prisoners.

I would wait and see if it happens again. Could have just been a one off. If the light keeps coming on get the fault read.

It just clips on/off.