Search results

Undo the 16mm (iirc) bolt that the alternator pivots on. Then loosen the 13mm alternator clamp. Undo the 10mm tensioner nut to release the tension. Remove belt, but note which way it goes around the pulleys, in particular the water pump. Reverse procedure to refit. Tension wise if it doesn't...

172 cup has different belt set up to the other 1*2s. There is no tensioner that needs to be changed on the aux belt. The belt is only about 10 quid and is easy to change if you are worried change it yourself. It is tensioned by the alternator. Gates = Renault without the diamond :-)

I've got 195/50R16 A048s on et38.5 turinis and I had to remove the front arch liner to be safe.

Technically you should. If you're worried phone up and see what your company have to say about your proposed mods. I would guess most people don't tell them about minor mods like grooved discs.

Re: accoustic valve, I thought there was a plug into it as well. Maybe I'm wrong.

I'd say check that the pads are free to move in the calliper. Might need to file a bit more off, remember they expand when hot.

How can you tell if a particular make/model tyre has a stiffer side wall than another? Can you use the load rating i.e. 195/45R16 80V, where the 80 is the load rating. Does higher load rating equate to stiffer side wall?

The 172 cup wheels are et38.5 and the std 172 wheels are et47 or something like that. So that would equate to about 10mm each side. Why the rear wouldn't be the same I don't know...

It's within normal range I'd say. My 50k 182 uses way more oil than my 132k 172.

What car? Assuming a 1*2 I guess the kit covers other models too i.e. ones without VVT? IIRC smaller diameter one for exhaust cam and larger for inlet cam. The inlet cam one doesn't seal around the cam but around the VVT/dephaser pulley when you put it on. Think I only pushed it in far enough...

Re: accoustic valve, I think the computer is just reporting an acoustic valve fault. If you plug it back in it will probably go away.

1 I don't have that! 2 Brake servo I think. 3 Feeds into the air intake after the filter

Wrong way around the water pump. I've put it on wrong before as well, but it starts to rub as you've noticed.

Mine only took a week to arrive I got it on Saturday.

Before I bought mine the previous owner had the same problem after putting the original steering wheel back on. He had damaged the steering wheel position sensor as he put the steering wheel back on. You need the Renault "clip" fault reader the see the fault. Generic fault readers don't see it...

I saw some gold ones. Think I might try that, looked good. Maybe not with white wheels though.

Mine never moves.

5W40 fully synth if you want to give it some good stuff.

I greased mine up. That's what they'll do at Renault because of the recall or if you're lucky they might replace the mechanism.

Oil filter loose?

They're about 20 quid but have to come from Italy, takes a couple of weeks.

When I did mine. I connected the end of the hose nearest the master cylinder first. Let the fluid make its way through that, then connect it to the calliper/metal brake pipe. I then opened the bleed nipple on that corner and let gravity pull the fluid through until there were no bubbles. Once...

It is easy, not like the air con models. Just remember which way the belt is routed. I've got it wrong in the past and it still goes on and runs but you get some rubbing... No special tools required, unless you count spanners ;)

If the light comes on, it will still come back on even if you reset the fault. Mine isn't on with the second lambda still in place, it is a 172 though.

The square hole doesn't undo. It is like a lever that releases the tension when you move it towards the engine.

lol at valves. Nice feature Renault designed in there.

Also losen the bottom alternator bolt.

I guess so. You'll be fin with just 1 though.

There are only 2 holes in the hub, but 4 in the disk IIRC.

The tensioner pivots on a hex bolt and the spring is a male torx can't remember sizes.