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Loose connection to the oil pressure switch probably. Could also be poor oil pressure but that is unlikely if the car well looked after.

Have you had the fault read? Other things than lambda faults can bring the EM light on.

Has the nut got to the end of the thread then?

Where is the movement? From the bearings or back and forth on the stub axle? Bearing could have been damaged when pressed in? Hub nut could be cross threaded - unlikely?

Here's mine on 195/50R16 A048s. They are much wider than std 195 tyres. Two sets of 4 wheels stacked next to each other both with 195 tyres, the A048s are about 3-4" taller. Had to remove the front arch liner to be safe as clearance was about 2mm. I haven't had them on track yet but personally...

It's dead easy as long as the old one comes undone easily. Just undo the sensor 21mm spanner I think. Unscrew unclip. Refitting is reverse ;-) If it doesn't come undone it's a pain in the arse.

I was watching, but didn't bid.

Should be fine, unless super low.

Use the back end of an 8mm drill bit. I took a spark plug out to work out when I was near TDC.

Check your pad thickness and also that the pads are free to move within the carrier. Remember they expand when hot, so should be about 1mm movement.

Even if you're kind to your tyres it's probably worth having a couple of spares just incase.

Here's the std mount and stud removed. Left side of the picture is the bottom. The stud goes in through the bottom. I haven't tried fitting my KTec uprated one yet but it looked pretty similar to the above to me. Only problem I had was the big nut on the top was stuck to the mount so I had to...

I have clicking that I reckon is drive shaft. That is intermittent but definitely sounds like it is coming from the front. How about cracked rear disc?

Someone posted recently about getting the balljoints for a scenic or something as they are the same. I never saw the outcome.

Thanks!

Get a fault reader on it. Could me many things. I've had a lambda sensor give me similar symptoms.

Renault once told me I needed new rear pads and I'd only replaced them the week before lol. Trouble with the rears is they are much thinner to start with so I find garages often say they need replacing when they don't.

I had knock sensor fault and lambda fault codes when my lambda went.

Mine was the same IIRC.

W is a higher speed rating than V so they'll be fine. Think they were V originally.

I have a pdf of the user manual, seems to cover right hand drive and 1*2. PM your e-mail address if you want a copy.

AVG free. Use the XP/Vista built in firewall if you need one. http://www.avg.com/uk.product-avg-anti-virus-free-edition

I noticed one of the rear arches on my 04 plate 182 has some tiny rust spots appearing.

With Morethan non "make it go faster in a straight line" mods are free. So they told me when I went with them. Haven't put it to the test yet.

This explains it http://www.fastchip.nl/media/doc/clio2/F4R_730.pdf

Yes. Front passenger seat and both sides in the rear.

Mine weeps a little, fluid never really drops though. Are you down on fluid?

Correct route. You can go the other way around the water pump with a 5 rib belt, with a 6 it will rub on the cam belt cover.

This is the second time I've done it and the level didn't drop in 60k miles.

I've never managed to get it to take more than 4.5 litres to fill and it's supposed to take 7 litres. I remove the bottom hose at the radiator, the heater hose where it enters the thermostat housing and the bleed screw. What am I missing? I don't have an air lock so don't bother suggesting it.