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I've got them. They're good but there is significant cabin vibe for me at idle, but I do have 428s in as well so my idle is probably worse than standard. The vibrations remind me of early diesel cars at tickover.

I bet Renault would say it is within spec.

Second hand engine for less than 500 quid.

If the oil is still within its service interval it'll probably be OK. I'd turn it over by hand from the crank pulley a few times. Then disconnect the coil pack and crank it on the starter a few times. Then give it a go for real. I'd let it reach normal temp at idle and check for leaks etc...

My 182 on 55k burns 1 litre every 2k my 172 on 133k burns next to nothing. There is a large variability. My 182 is leaking from the cam cover quite a bit no smoke from the exhaust. I've used 15W50 oil without probs in the clio. Have you checked around the cam cover for leaks? Take the breather...

I paid about 85 quid for the pulley locking/immobilising tool from Renault. I paid 40 quid for a the laser cam and crank locking tools from ebay. The laser one bends eventually apparently but was fine for me. I'll only be using it a few times so hopefully it'll hold out.

I've got the renault manual for it. PM me your e-mail and I'll send it to you.

Power drops off from 6500 sure but you're still better off in a lower gear for a few hundred revs after peak power. Shift light or whatever comes on at about 7k. If you look at peoples RR graphs there is still a decent amount of power at 7k. OP sorry for high jacking ;-) Surely one of the feeds...

The VVT solenoid kicks in at about 1500 rpm. The connector is on the top of the engine just behind the cam pulleys. I doubt they've touched it though as you don't need to to change the cam belt. I would take it back and tell them you know they haven't used the timing tool because the seals are...

I think the problem was you needed the Renault clip to set it up. I think it went to a non Renault garage first and they couldn't do anything with it. Not too sure as the guy sorted it before I bought it.

Mine had this before I got it. Cost about 350 for a new sensor and setup from Renault.

So what exactly is the best point to change gear then? In a 1*2 it is just before you hit the limiter from my experience, so just after the "light" comes on.

Mine looked fine at 70k. You could take them out and have a look but for 35 quid if you've removed them you might as well change them.

You don't need to dorp the subfrrame for the lower gearbox mount. Just do it when the upper gearbox one is off/undone and jack the gearbox up a bit. But as others have said I don't think this one takes the same strain as the others. Mine looked fine after 130k.

I've got the Renault manual for the 172 cup. PM me your e-mail if you want a copy. It tells you what the ride height should be. I'd post the values but you need the diagram to make sense of them.

Only mixing cross ply and radial tyres is an MOT fail. There was a thread recently on this. I wouldn't worry about it myself if the rest of the car looks good. Buy a new tyre if it bothers you. Until recent times I've mixed tyre makes and used budgets without any problems. Now I have more cash...

Do the PX4s have a softer side wall than the Michelin PE2s (I know the T1Rs do) that would certainly make the car feel more unstable on turn in.

5W40 fully synthetic is best. Chip fat second ;)

Like title really I can't decide where is a good place to mount them. Or how to make them look nice.

I've seen a super charged one.

I have a gearbox manual for the JC5, PM me your e-mail if you want a copy.

You can only put the steering wheel on in one position AFAIK because of the ESP steering wheel position sensor.

Do a search for the Jamsport matched inlet group buy - loads of info in there. IIRC the lower inlet is opened up through out and matched to the head and the plenum. The plenum is also opened out a bit and matched to the lower inlet.

I think 200/575R15 is about right. IIRC the Michelin slicks on the cup racers were 19-57-15 which meant 190mm wide, 570mm diameter and 15" wheel.

The cabin vibe reminded me of those early diesel cars from about 20 years ago.

There is a fair chance it will leak if you don't use it. I think ktec do it for half that. Plus the bolt heads get pretty rusted. On a 172 it is hassle to get to so you might as well replace it to reduce your chance of having to get back in there...

The black vacuum hose that runs from the plenum by the coil pack, round the upper engine mount goes down to the canister. You could try disconnecting that to test it out but it may mess with you idling as you'll essentially introduce a small leak into the inlet manifold.

I guess it should be fine, check your manual. It would be fine for a 1*2 and that's all I know about really. You'll be looking at more like 5 litres I expect.

IIRC stevieh got 207 with the low comp turbo on RS Tunings rollers. I'd say an otherwise standard car on ITBs would make around 200. Prices are similar but you could potentially upgrade the turbo conversion more easily than an ITB'd car. Why no mention of a super charger?

Impact wrench/buzz gun is your best bet assuming they're too tight for allen key and swan neck spanner.