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JC5-129 for ph1 and 172 cup I think. JC5-130 for ph2. I'm sure someone will confirm it or not.

Just an update: Drive link say they'll take a look if I send it in and see if they can recon it. Probably about 100 quid if they could do it he said. But I think I'm going to stump up for a genuine one as there seem to be lots of bad reports of reconned ones and seeing as I do some motor sport...

Coilovers won't solve top mount problems. Get solid mounts or new rubber ones. Then coilovers ;-)

Turn the lights off. Your eyes'll be nice and relaxed then ;)

They are the standard ones arn't they? £36 at partco.

Some motor factors do do them. You'd be talking about 100 from a motor factors. Phone these guys and ask them who they supply near you http://www.drivelink.com/.

I'm seriously thinking about this kit. I got quoted 515 by Adrian Flux for 250 bhp limit with a super charger. What cars can you get for say 7k (3k for my old cup + 4k for the charger) that have a better power to weight ratio, circa 250 bhp/tonne. Plus with the clio it is mechanically cheap...

Section 11-15 "The lower inlet manifold is tightened to a torque of 2.1 daN.m." Helpfully not in a table just mentioned in a paragraph and of course it's not in the inlet manifold section.

I saw fred posted the Renault part numbers and every 172/182 variant had different shafts except for the 182 and trophy. I'll have to take a look at the second hand option.

I was expecting that when I got there. Although GSF did ask if it had ABS or not and despite here surprise that it didn't that didn't seem to mean they didn't have them. I'll have to take the old one along if I decide to go for that option. I need to try and contact a reconditioner direct as well.

Partco/Unipart don't do them GSF want 100+VAT a side Euro car parts want 84 and 93 for LH and RH respectively +VAT

21 Nm the manual says for the lower inlet.

Checked with Renault to find my drive shafts are 191+VAT a side. I've heard people talk about getting them reconditioned. What sort of places do this sort of stuff and how would I find them? Is it just your standard engineering metal works kind of places? Thanks.

What do the numbers on the spring mean? The AST are obviously different to the Eibach ones, but I don't understand either except guessing the last number on the Eibach ones is in lb/ft and the last number on the AST ones is the spring diameter.

Mine is too stiff for B-roads (I have the AST "stiff" setup). I always find sunken man hole covers and M-way/DC compressions to be the most painful (and that's my pain). But my car is only really a comp/toy so I can live with it. Have you spoken to Curtis? Have you talked to him about...

AFAIK it normally only makes about 6bhp more than a 172. The 172 4-1 exhaust mani normally gets better top power than a 182 4-2-1. They have RS inlets which are slightly better match to the head. They have a better flowing cat. They have a different map.

My box is fine at 133k. I do auto solos with it which are constant on off power in first.

lol I've paid over 100 quid for head bolts before, can't remember which one but it would either be ford or pug, so nothing special. I'm sure Renault can inflate those prices nicely.

The vibes do die down after a few hundred miles - either that or I'm getting used to them lol!

Mine is the same. The vibes do settle down after a few hundred miles.

You need to get the fault read from the ECU.

I think that is the air temp sensor. Why you'd want to frig it I don't know. Maybe it was knackered and they didn't want to splash out on a new one. Don't know if they're expensive.

I've got a load of manuals - basically all the ones they sell on ebay. PM me your e-mail if you want them.

Never noticed any difference between the 172 and 182 i.e. 195 versus 205.

Sounds a bit pricey lol. 36 for the plugs, IIRC the leads are about 120 from Renault though. Can get aftermarket ones for 80 or less. 1 hours labour - and that's generous. Do it yourself, it's fairly straight forward. You need to remove the plenum but it is easy. There is bound to be a guide.

^^ Like he said. I got my adapters with my ratchet spanners from Halfords.

I assumed that would just be because of the mis-fire.

I have a 182 with aircon so that is what I'm talking about, on the cup is was dead easy. Jacking the engine with the top mount removed is fine with a bit of wood, everyone does it. To get at the bolts under the manifold by the alternator I used an extension bar with a universal joint on. If...

The head is CNC machined so they are essentially all the same - so the inlets are matched to the head.

Put some wood between the jack and the sump. You made need a soft faced mallet to knock the lower part towards the gearbox to get it out. Getting it back in is the fun bit. Especially as the PTFE gasket is thicker. I've heard of people grinding down part of the lower inlet to get it to fit. I...