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I've just got one and it's not what I expected. Should it be a rubber strip with holes in? I was expecting a flat traditional gasket type thing. Thanks

Mine did the same it was the alternator. On mine it had an internal short and was very hot to the touch...

172 cup has the 1 piece O/S shaft like the ph1 to save weight.

But is 3 the maximum, as it will rev to 7800?

I'm planning on getting an oil pressure gauge. I wondered what the typical max value the 172 oil pressure reaches so I know which gauge to buy. Thanks Mark

It's difficult to tell, they're worse than mine. Are you putting brand new cams in or just the old ones back in? Was it previously all running fine?

Jack the engine up and down once you've removed the suspended engine mounting. Buy smaller tools/hands. It's a pig. With the aux belt you can take the top bolt off the alternator and loosen the other ones so it can pivot down and give you a bit more slack than de-tensioning the tensioner...

Have you got the manual? PM me you e-mail if not and I'll send it over.

Put some pics up its probably just normal wear. Mine had minor graining. That was at 132k miles (212000km) though.

Check the fluid FFS.

Mine did this too. It was an internal short inside the alternator. Sounds like the power steering is on full lock all the time. With mine I knew it was an alternator fault as when you touched it it took the skin off your fingers ;-) I paid about 170 for the alternator from Partco or whatever...

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If just doing the belts Renault don't use that tool or slacken the cam pulleys. "2nd procedure" they call it in the manual? And 1509 plus the other bit to lift it out of the way of the de-phaser cost me about 85 quid from Renault when I put my cams in.

Mine does it too.

Its expensive, fairly typical for Renault though. You'd probably get it for 2/3 of that at an independent Renault specialist. Where one is near you though I don't know...

Cheers jay s for the info. Anyone know if it is worth changing to upgraded ones over standard. I've just got cams and aiming for a 7800rpm limit. Danny has a super charger. So 2 different cases to consider. And I trawled for ben_p's engine spec and he had: ACL race big end bearings

I'm going to put some ARP bolts on the ends of the con rods so thought I'd replace the bearings while I'm at it. Any suggestions on where to get them and which ones to get? Are there uprated ones available? Renault wanted £27, I assume for the set but with Renault you never know that could be...

Some times you can pull the mirror back on to the adjusters if you take the rubber cap off the back of the light and pull the mirror bit inside towards the back of the car.

They're different for every variant AFAIK. 172 ph1, 172 ph2, 172 cup, 182 all different.

This is mega important stuff! The "change before the gear change indicator light" myth has been dispelled forever. We can now happily rev the nuts off our 172/182s safe in the knowledge that it is the fastest way to drive it and changing gear at the optimum moment. :rasp:

I just timed your vid: 4th 100 - 120 6 seconds 5th 100 - 120 8 seconds So it is faster in 4th.

That can be true but not in the case of a 172 as my calculations show.

Also I should add that torque at wheel values are all relative and are not "true" torque values since they are multiplied by my relative gear ratios. They are only useful for comparing which is best.

OK so going on this link http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/whentoshift.htm. Based on my 172 cup when it had just a K-Tec stealth exhaust and no other mods. Even shifting at 7250 RPM the torque at the wheels is higher in the lower gear than when you shift up. So the optimum shift point is 7250 rpm...

Prove it! I'm doing the maths but at the moment I only have the ratios from my 182 and torque curve from my 172 and the numbers are so finely balanced that I need to get the ratios for the 172. I'll post when I've done it.

Use the shift light. It is not as simple as peak power as the lower gear will still give you better acceleration for a few hundred revs after peak power than if you shifted up.

Still original clutch at 133000 miles. I can just get it to slip now with sticky tyres and a flat out start.

I cable tie the compensator to max effort for my MoTs with the cup. The garage hasn't noticed them yet. They failed it first time I took it there without doing this before it was common knowledge about the compensator. The rears have good effort then. But they should pass it anyway.

Yep what you've suggested could work if you can get enough space to get them in there. I used a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter with the side filed down to get it in there. You don't need to seal the camshaft blanking plugs.

I must have done 50k miles since mine first showed signs of issues. It's now bad enough that I'm going to change it.