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Probably a lambda sensor but you need to get the fault read to find out what it says.

I can't believe rally cars don't have aero buckles. When I rolled my grass track car with a seat belt style buckle. The car stopped upside down and when I released the buckle because you have to slide your arms into the belt it nearly trapped me agaist the side of the bucket seats. I had to...

Yes, one of the bolts on the thermostat housing is bleed screw. Much easier to use if you remove the airbox.

ESP - Extra Sensory Perception ;)

I've got that one (looks like it anyway). 172 plugs are 14mm IIRC I use the gauge without the/any adapter.

They're not dangerous lol. My 182 was my first car with ABS.

First thing I'd check. Mine come loose and make noise. I have a bit of crap between the disc and the hub. I don't have spacers though but I would have thought they'd make any problems of this sort worse.

Sounds worse than normal. Mine did this when the pre cat lambda went. For the first mile it wouldn't get over 20 mph, then once the lambda had warmed up off we went, just the occasional flat spot. I had to crawl along with the hazards on until it "clicked".

Have you checked your wheel bolts are tight?

Get a fault reader on it, it could be lots of things. Crap running when cold is normal. Decat never put my light on. Faulty lambda did. Faulty TB didn't.

Mine are slightly darker than anthracite. I think I'm going to turn mine back silver as every time I see one with nice clean silver wheels I think they look the dogs.

Plenum off, spark plugs out, compression tester in, turn over engine. Easier than taking the head off ;) The little pipe that goes into the inlet elbow between the air filter and throttle body. Just pull it off the elbow and look to see if it has a lot of oil in.

Have you done a compression test? Check in the oil breather pipe to see if there is a lot of oil in there.

I like the tweeting birds lol.

Any motor factor should have one.

How about the stalk movement interferes with the steering wheel position sensor (I know this knocks out cruise as it happened on mine). Or just interferes with the cruise controls? Have you had the wheel off?

They auto tension it is not adjustable. They could have routed it wrong and hence it's rubbing or too tight but from a Renault dealer you'd hope not. Sometimes the new belt causes weak tensioner/idler pulleys to fail. Mine whined alot when the alternator when - had an internal short so was a...

I've never had good experience from second hand starter motors or alternators.

I'm surprised, I thought I'd seen loads of ph1s with 2118s? What is ph1 offset? et43? What are your 2118s? They come in et43 and et38 don't they?

I use an old sharpening stone.

It will clear itself if you have fixed the underlying problem, I think.

I did it without the tools first time, just marked the cam pulley positions. I bought the tools when I did my 182 and put cams in my 172. I found it was alot less fiddly with the tools.

That timing tool should qualify you for a ban on here surely ;) I hope your mate at least marked the pulley positions as well.

Rams? I take it that's not mud splattered on your bonnet. Nice work. Looks like it might just be superficial damage though so you might be lucky as long as there isn't a sheeps head imprint in the crossmember.

It's safe to turn left though? lol

Just happens quicker on a cup.

That pipe is AC related so I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be sparking on contact with engine/body work. Defo sounds like you've lost your engine earth.

It's because it's a 172 cup mine are the same. They don't do enough to clean up the discs properly and once that corrosion starts it's difficult to clean off. Just leave them until they fail them at the MoT.

I'm assuming the pipe you're describing isn't an electrical cable? In that case it shouldn't be sparking at all. Sounds like maybe your engine earth is broken and it is earthing through the pipe intermittently. It would also be consistent with it just clicking after you re-seated the pipe. Try...

I'm sure it'll be fine.