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Well it did..........I just cooked it.....should of put that cooler on. For a rallycross car you WILL want to run a clutch plate diff with high preload and just live with it.....anything else and you'll be at the back of the pack.

Take you about an hour. Dont have time to write a guide, but you have 2 bolts on the corner of each bumper int he wheel arch, a row of bolts underneath holding the plastic skirt to the subframe and 2 plastic push pins holding the grille top to the slam panel.....the just pull the bumper off...

i wouldnt bother. more is often less with its all put onto a stock engine.

Thats most probably because you dont understand what is entailed. No fault of your own, its not your job to know. If you read my rant, you'll see that it is a 'well thought out job'. But maybe people would be happier with a bridgeport, an end mill and £25.

Oil temp gauge will depend what oil temps you want to read. You can either fit it inline pre or post cooler......if you have braided cooler lines though it'll cost you a lot more for unions and fittings. Pressure just get an extension made to fit the original location for the pressure...

Take the front bumper/grille off, its only 5 mins. Remove the slam panel and you'll have full access. You will need to make sure you have a 3/8 square drive for the aux tensioner though, or you'll be putting that lot back on straight away.

depends if you want to sacrifice a lot of bottom end for a little top end.

Airflow management is complex, and the days of just opening out ports and manifolds are gone. If it was still the case then you can get anything extrude honed for pennies. If people truely understood then they wouldn't complain at £50/hr labour rates for top level 'porters'....its back...

This quite simply shows that the internet is a terrible place, but a fantastic example of 'a little knowledge is a dangerous thing'. The typical attitude to 'porting' is bigger is better, and that is a very 1970's thought process. With airflow management (which is a better term for what we...

Cable fitment will be exactly the same, so no problems there. Just a slight modification to locate the ICV, most likely remotely with a hose extension.

Just a thought.....if you bring a scraper with you, you could put all the chippings into a bag and you'd be well off!

Was thinking that, but it'd be more hassle then just making a nasty big repair as its under the dash nobody will see it.

yes....exactly. Its not a half meter hole! lol......how big do you think my fist is!....i know you were blindfolded and a virgin at the time....but come on. Its a half meter repair section needed.

Dunno.......but it was passenger footwell and was only a very small bubble.....so guess they thought it was 'fine' lol.

I'd never key a car...........apart from that one.

phs1....mmmm

No, they completely missed a giant area lol. Although we have a welder, I aint no good at making repair panels that are half a meter big! lol

Heavy sand blast then a large size glass bead blast bring the casting up very uniform, I have done this. Its not silk smooth but its the best you'll do without wasting your time.......plus its properly clean after a final aquablast. And a chrome finish which is slightly rough is better than...

Dude.....your like the most easily influenced....thing....a scene/jdm/emo stereotype mix! I didnt want to punch a hole through it, just noticed a small bubbled at the floor/inner wing joint....and poked it...and kept poking it until i could walk through it, and the inner wing is split all the...

Coilpack AND ICV should have constant power as they all run off the same relay supply. Might be your problem there lol.

Yea...just got the shell back from welding 'ready to paint' they say. I just punched a hole through the floor the size of my fist..........2 steps forward, 1 step back and all that. Plus your a moron so your opinion doesnt count......you JDM *****.

What? You mean this vs this? ;)

Correct.....but that is just the very basic basic basic rule and it can very easily be thrown out the window. Its about as firm a rule as summers in the UK are pleasant.

I had 200.9 on a bosch RR with a full blueprint, headwork, 428's, inlets, maxogen etc etc etc.........but paul said the map was crap so could of maybe made more :S.

You wont get proper exhaust crackle from the OEM ecu as it doesnt run fueling on overrun......so your just pumping air and end up with the now modern and horrible BZZZZZZZZZZZZZz noise on overrun.

You cant pass judgement just because you've seen performance exhausts with 4-2-1. Tell F1 their 4-1 is pointless ;) Its just our findings........they never, ironically, have as strong a midrange.

Keep the 4-1......it always seems the stronger performer.

The gates kits are just the same as OEM, even the same canadian tensioners etc.

Very much so! However as more people competed for business it seemed a each would add 5bhp ontop of the last persons claims.

Just chrome it.........it'll work out faster and much less hassle. Polishing looks terrible IMO as nobody can get into the nooks and crannys.