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Lets just say the C&Bs work very well on the F4R for street use. Fat midrange and good topend. There are a couple of guys on here using them.

Done on a closed road off course ;) Almost 240 solid Kilometers an hour.. See the datalog mods: - C&B cams - remap (maxed out) - exhaust - nut behind the wheel..

Welcome to the forum Oli

Depends on engine load. Value increases with rpm as well.

Nope, you only need a standard RST kit.

Depending on the software version your car is running I need you OEM calibration and make one for it.

BB1R is supported. Each car needs its own reprogramming license.

A 182 has engine code F4R-738. Chassis VIN (vehilce number) is likely to be CB22.

Should work now Wayne, give it a try. Only use the .rst file if your 182 has 8000 or 8100 software running.

You'll need the VVT on a street car.

Yes, you wil need a PC/laptop to configure the standalone functions of the Premium unit. After that it can be used on its own for data logging. (up to 64 logs)

Maybe that is because they are just released. The Standard & Pro are much longer available.

Basically it is a remap that you carry out yourself using a laptop. But it is also a diagnostics tool.

Because if you leave it ON, it drops power even faster.

Yes rpm is limited to 7.5k

C&B's have the nicest idle and best torque overall. For a street car the nr 1 choice. With the right aux. mods you can have exactly the same torque & power as a stock 197 Engine. Provided your engine has little leakage and a calibration to match. All you need then is a Sadev sequential ;)

The OEM JC5 gearbox can be fitted with a sixth gear. However I have no clue if the parts are still available for this.

You only need the latest cal. Programming the .rst is not needed and increases the risk of a dead ECU as it takes quite a while.

That depends on the calibration version as well.

Even with other 'street' cams there is not so much gain on stock manifolds. Renault Sport makes sure the settings are spot on, off course.

He compared a performance cal to another performance cal. Also 1 of the graphs is not accurate as it is way to 'bumpy'. Sometimes you need a few iterations to get it right.

There is a big improvement with my cals, not only power wise but also warmup, idle, throttle response. Not all can be seen on a Dyno plot. Off course it isn't a Turbo engine so be happy with a little extra. FYI, it works better than most Dyno benches when used under the right circumstances...

You can change rpm set points. That is all. Stock cams are happy at default settings.

Saturated Injectors can run 100% duty all day long, as do the old style Peak & Hold Injectors but they need current limitation which is usually done by an OEM ECU like the old style Fenix 3A/B. Also you dont need bigger injectors with 428's or C&B cams. Only if you need togo > 7500 rpm...

Can re-scale them for you Alper, if you want to put them in. But you don't need them at this point.

Depending on the cams VVT rpm needs to be raised a couple of hundred rpm. It needs to stay enabled otherwise you loose a lot of midrange torque.

Chances are the software on your car is already A300. If so , apply the latest .cal and enjoy.

Your Front Oxygen sensor is suspicious as well. Especially when the car is used for short trips they tend to age quickly.

Yes, except for remapped ones and people living in Mexico (due to high altitude).

Country / Emission legislated differences.