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But an expensive fix Kelv... We mentioned this yesterday, also regarding different subframes, shafts and even uniball sizes. Again nothing has been changed on your chassis that would make it different from another Cup

I did check this but was flush (reason i normally file mine down) as a matter of course

Good day yesterday Martin, shame about the problem hopefully will get to the bottom of it soon, if you ever need a hand give me a shout

Also happened on compression at the bottom of Paddock Hill, this would push the drive shafts in more... All 4 wheels was checked for fouling, only thing found was the Nimbus air deflector was slightly bent due to tyre hitting but that wasn't the cause of the noise. Only real way is to drop oil...

Yes exactly. Iv not done Oulton but racers such as @BIGASH @dinger @tonyhunter @rallyruss have done.

No i dont mind...

Lol those top 2 pics are mine haha thats how the racer looked in 2012!

Yes, in class A everything goes more or less apart from forced induction (currently undergoing reg alteration).

Yep supplementary regs for E and G for production classes

If you wanted to run in production class you cant have coilovers, solid engines mounts and no rose joints etc... But allowed exhaust, filter uprated standard springs. Pads are free.

Sounds like a very good spec, tbh you are better off running in class A, however you will need to up the power of the engine to be competitive, cams bodies and a diff is really a must. Back to safety, you will need at least a 6 point cage (bolt in is fine) Safety Devices do a great 6 point...

Go online and read a copy of the MSAblubook to build the car to their liking, mainly for saftey. Yes I am in Class A, whats the spec of your car? If its very mildly modded it might be an idea to race in production class.

Carbon floor with a few spacers and M6 dome head bolts, I have gripper tape on the part under the brake and acc pedal, clutch area free.

Good set up, however you can cool the brakes down too much and move them out of their operating temperature, so by the time you reach the next turn your brakes would have cooled down too much.

MSV Track day Trophy, Cannon Tin Tops, CSCC Tin Tops, Motorsport News Series, Tricolore Trophy Few of us on here race in all those series, most however including myself race in the Tricolore Trophy, 2 classes for yourself, E class which is production and A class which is modified. Tricolore...

Good effort Russ, think i would babe thrown the towel on by now

I originally used spacers to move that rear bracket further away from the back box as it knocked on braking/acceleration. PMS kindly cut the bracket down making it about 10mm shorter. Im guessing its due to the 182 manifold pushing the exhaust system further towards the rear bumper. fyi

15th August

My cars a non starter at a mo so not possible. If your buying a car then ask for proof its fitted with one, like i said you can check the serial number when you remove the NS driveshaft, the gear oil can be pored back in so wouldn't cost anything to check.

Do you not turn the bump settings right down to make it softer ?

or drop the gear oil and under the wet side (near side) drive shaft and check the part/serial number on the diff/shaft house, will be written on the inside.

What sort of spring rates did you go for ?

Just in time for Silverstone hey Pete.. :) unfinished business hey

Im guessing you may have to run spacers if running over -3 camber to stop tyres hitting the springs, I think I recall someone going up to 215...cant remember. Would be interesting if it shaved any time of your laps, if not then wouldn't bother.

Diagram Pins 2 loop from the ignition switch, Red wire.

Was gonna ask if the shell was bent or if you doing it for more of a refresh. So is this a winter project or starting asap,

You not doing Cadwell then Russ?

Nice one James, yea they a proper expensive, so always worth keeping hold of.

The splines are dry no wet feed (as Alex said no pump). The speedo drive is a black plastic sensor at the rear back of the box it sticks up so the loom plug connects to it.

That sucks mate, my old sump was cracked too, bloody expensive from the dealer, cheaper to buy a broken engine and salvage it from that. Wheres it cracked?