Search results

Get some pics up fella so we can see your damage . When I fitted mine , I didn't do half as much damage as yours sounds . I cut mine and positioned it accordingly to suit best as it would go .

I wouldn't worry about it barnesy .

Bolt to hub are not for me - I'm out [emoji33]

Yes you can just unplug it and remove the mechanism . Front doors will work just fine .

Lovely jubbly looks like a good place to put them - have you put any kind of sealer around the locking nut that may let water in ?

I run 20m spacers on track , I won't use the bolt to hub type as these can work loose out on track through certain conditions . I prefer the spacers that go over the studs . Only 4 nuts to keep an eye on . [emoji106] Not had any issues with the spacers and had them a few years now.

Sorry to hear about you now being unemployed . Chin up I'm sure something will come your way shortly . You say up until march was a quiet period - have you forecasted for that period ?

Ahh ok . [emoji106]

I'll be doing this shortly , but with aero catches as I want locking . Have you picks of where you have mounted them inside the boot.

Cannot find them @dangerous dave Have you a link by any chance

Hi Russ - liking your diet process on the loom - did you remove all necessary wires and cut back to the plugs on the UCH ? Also the rear loom - have you taken the loom out all the way back to the multi plugs at each front door and then on to the UCH ? Have you any diagrams to hand by any...

Use an old water hose of some sort . Cut it to length . You talking about this bit

This what you are thinking of. Someone else's motor. Good idea Wouldn't be to difficult to sort I'd imagine .

I've did the same yesterday - I did a mock up in cardboard and then cut out the plastic to the shape , made it a lot easier but long winded. Not a bad job I thought .

The 3 pin purple pin would have gone to the air con pressure switch , the 2 pin white connector plugs in to the rad fan motor . There is another 2 pin black connector near the purple one that would be for the resistor to run cooling fan at half speed - that's only for functioning air con system...

Another ENM lives on - Sorn ATM thou . Good read - Subscribed

Good luck removing the hinges from the Alloy bonnet - they are renowned for snapping . It's more work fitting the hinges .

Not a major issue changing this seal , once it's removed the process is quite easy fitting the new one . Offer up the seal to the gearbox and tap around the edge evenly so the seal goes in straight . With regard to how far - measure the seal depth before you remove it if you can , then you'll...

IMHO , the only reason I'm doing it is because I want to eliminate any PAS pump and prevent fluid failures under the bonnet that would then wreck the alternator , "belts" engine and generally don't want oil spills out on track that would cause a problem .

HRW relay is not in the engine bay fella as far as I'm aware . It'll be the bigger relay on the interior UCH .

Have a read in here http://www.cliosport.net/index.php?threads/Pictures-of-your-looped-rack-for-EPAS%2E-What-fittings-have-you-used%3F.772015/

Well there are round holes in it :Wink

You mean these Mark

Especially it being on a 182 . Ph2 Deffo keep

I've taken a cold air feed from my fogs .

I'll make you all laugh , picked up a bit of scrap metal out of the bin and got cutting . Turned out all right I recon. What do you lot recon lol.

Right rear needs a 30 min / half of a degree shim , and that'll bring that right in spec

Years gone by - we used to cut off that connection and replace it with a new spade connector . Cured it every time . More than likely it's over heated over time and is either dirty or current overload burnt which is why it fails.

I've had creaking from within the rack before . It turned out to be a dry rack and pinion on the left side of the rack. I removed the n/s rack gator and lubed rack bed as necessary and all was good . Worth a try as its cheap.

@Fraser.J. Have you any pics of where you mounted the pins.