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why do you need cash if your in your jim jams? someone to pay ;)?

optimum camber totally depends on what amount best uses the tyres contact patch under load, nobody can tell you what you should be running. Optimum will also change with tyres used, road conditions and surface and general 'speeds'.

it wont have stock internals by any stretch. You could hear as he put it in gear at the start that it was a dog box. Casing might be the same.

not a standard box at all, its H pattern, but probably a dog box.

nope....i have 40 billion from all the sets lol.

spares, its a generic top end gasket kit for the F4R varients.

injectors always tick as the valves are opened and closed at silly speeds.

in a mk1 and if your not going mental with the engine spec, i dont see a point in the hassle for a 172 engine.

Teh duratec is a fantastic modern engine, probably the next best thing behind the K20A. However, throw 10-13K at any modern 2ltr and you'll have those outputs, or more, on any of them.

PROPER components are near non existent, even the stuff boys are racing on i'd place in the bin. Main problem is that the market is small and people dont want to pay proper money for proper components. The engine isnt highly tuned to start with 85bhp/ltr is pretty pants, the stock civic EG...

hmmm......new rear panel and boot floor.

The only problem is getting a enough area around the pulley from the belt drive.

from my experience that cam is too wild for a stock engine and ECU. But if your engine is modified and you have appropriate engine management, then i see no problem. Cranking pressure has very little concern to us apart from providing info on condition of seals.

the GN is actually a v6

stick with the std airbox, in most cases the gains arent too noticable once everything else in the list has been done.

If your lift @ tdc is actually those figures in the dephased state then the cranking pressure will be significantly lower yes. You'd be lucky to hit 100-120psi.

Manifolds cant be accounted for perfectly, like any engine really, with a 'chip. This is because they are done by different people, who's skills vary drastically. An off the shelf chip, imo, might make it better, but wont bring it inline with what it should be.

hoofing it and any full throttle action anywhere will see you entering the danger zone. Carbon buildup is a natural part of burning hydrocarbons, rich/lean it will happen.

i wouldnt do 'fast', constant high rpm/high load will see you steadily increasing chamber/head temps until knock sets in, followed possibly by det which can knock out a piston. Extreem case, but not unlikely if your running excessively lean.

Its a tricky one. In most cases once you add a modified inlet, it will be running lean. The std ECU doesnt correct in the traditional manner of closed loop to account for lean conditions. This is because the stock lambda sensor doesnt have the range necessary to measure the correct full load...

Splitfire = bin fodder. Use stock non fancy NGK's.

I'm from China......so EMperial ;)

i'm 24

to get metric, multiply the imperial (inch) number by 25.4.

1.8's dont respond that well to cams anyway.

on what engine?

you might be able to, but it'll make for a horrible cam. When they 'regrind' a cam they reduce the BCD and according flanks/ramps. This leads to pretty darn crap hydrodynamic wedge formations, high valve acceleration and velocity rates for the given off seat time. You'll probably need more...

you took 28 thou off the block!!!!!!!! lol Hope you checked your deck height and piston head clearance, as your basically sitting a 8 thou deck clearance and 32 thou total piston/head clearance MAX on std gasket.

That is exactly what i pitched last year! Traders forum which they pay to use and can only banter about their stuff in there. Otherwise every thread is a non stop 'come see me, we do this, this much' etc etc.

Not at the moment, i need to get a whole bunch in.