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My 12:1 static CR 172 engine had a cranking pressure of just under 300psi.

Std compression ratio is 11.2:1 which gives a rough cranking psi of roughly 190psi, but thats for a std cam setup. If you are running rods with a 0.4mm reduced centre to centre length then your static CR drops to 10.77:1 and cranking pressue is reduced to about 180psi. When you built your...

on the lambda sensor wires, just follow them.

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=130874 good one for having a go, getting the basics done is not hard and a worthwhile mod.

lapping in the old sense of using coarse, medium then fine grades of paste is a bad idea, it leads to a fubar'ed seat. Lapping now should only ever be a 5-10 second affair per valve to ensure valve seat from a fresh seat cut. I would never lap an old seat, always get them recut.

are the tyres same front and rear?

who?

agree, mk1's ROCK!

refil on the plastic wingned nut. GO to halford and buy one of their orange funnels with flexi pipe attatched, that fits perfectly.

you'd better not be slagging off my hero laptop in private PM's! i look forward to killing you soon. Lots of love.... a ninja

you have a reply. And also provided info about a superb budget ecu system.

overrated

agree, putting in a more expensive engine which you will have hassle with fitting, especially electronics....when an F7R drops striaght in and is just as fast for less.

Silkolene box oil tends to feel crap after a short time. Redline, torco or Royal purple if you want proper heavy duty stuff that will last.

Dont pay for oil, go get your own and supply it and watch them pour it in....or just get the cheap stuff and change it again later on.

Lol, this is turning into another semi heated discussion. Who cares, spend your money, takes your pick. Not everybody can or will spend their evenings on CS trying to help out, i was doing it before i started angelworks, so its more of a habbit.

Only person to put 2 years development into it ;)

Nope, certainly doesnt! lol

Only one place to go for headwork.

erm.....were you just pootling along and it snapped, or was there some reason? Is your car severely lowered?

tbh mark, the box stands up to abuse quite well, its not the peice of cheese many flame it to be. Granted it doesnt like large torque spikes, but what gearbox does? Drag racing, clutch dumping and river dancing on the pedals is what kills things. The syncros dont like being rushed...

between the two bits of billet, you can use the centre mount from the original mount and use a stud, just locate it elsewhere. Dude, your a tuning company, think of your own solutions! Or weld it to your car..............permanent.

then use a solid billet and machine it to correspond to the 3 bolt holes on the chassis rail.

Inlet £160 inc new gaskets

DO something about those s**t heads and you wont have to run half the boost. Just machine up a peice of billet slab corresponding to the bolt centres but counterbore them. Then use the top rubber mount as per normal with the batterybox/mount arrangement.

Dont complain about welding, its all you enjoy doing. Actually, i tried cillint on a gearbox and it came up bloody semi polished looking, and it had not been cleaned for about 20 years! Took some scrubbing.....buy the powdered stuff then cut a barrel in half and fill that...

and dont forget to oussst the boooossst

yes. Run 2 front lower supports, 1 upper gearbox and 1 solid rear along with a damper on the cylinder head, this leaves the O/S top mount optional.

put a dampner in or a sheet metal rear mount with nylon/poly bushings.

yea there is ony bolt that is a bit of a tit to play with and line up new gasket and squeeze it all in, not hard just annoying. As for GrpN ecu...never tried it with my manifolds, never been too interested in the GrpN ecu. Might be ok, but i dont want to say as i dont know how much extra...