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PF's if you dont care about dust.

Wilder cams, depending on design will increase peak power and push the point of peak power higher up. However going too wild will make your car on average slower as you will have less area under the curve to play with. Just plonking in cams on a 1.8 does very little bar make it more peaky.

you only raise the limit if the peak power position requires it to be raised.

not worth it imo

yup, 7-7.2k stock.

exactly the same engine bar the thermostat housing/coolant take off and CTS tapped directly into the side of the head.......and the plastic cambelt covers.

It'll all be on my website in about 2 weeks. Providing i dont keep falling asleep at the keyboard!

short wheelbase, rear weight bias and a home made suspension setup based around a FWD locked steering geometry.......thats asking for an unpredictable car. front engined, rwd hatches are better....but short wheelbase's are always twitchy.

wont even remotely work.

If you get under a v6 you can still see the lagunas layout, they even used the steering arms and just locked them by bolting them to the subframe, hence all the 'snap oversteer' issues as the arms bend and toe out the rears.

plenty, would be using a type 9 box with an adaptor bell housing etc

easy peasy......just give us a bell and i'll run through all the options with you and leave you to ponder lol.

aaron, all you have to do is call and ask you tit lol.

eleventyfour

never seen any of those ones TBH, if i needed some i'd get the machined up. Sorry cant be of more help. :S

As long as the spacers are good quality and are locating ones, not multi million adj floatings ones, then you can actually run then pretty thick. Built in spogots are the ticket.

that followed the same layour as putting the front of a FWD car in the back of the 5, noithing complex.....the clio v6 is nothing but the front of a laguna in the back of the clio.

keep it std with a touch more camber if you have adj bolts. The way the offsets and scrud radii are on a stock setup do not look kindly on toe in for everyday road use, so i dont reccomend deviating from factory settings by much.

http://www.rallynuts.com/motorsport/Wheel%5FStuds%5F1942/ http://www.western-towing.co.uk/acatalog/Wheel_Studs_Bolts_Nuts.html http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=GRYSS33 rally design, peter Lyod rallying etc etc

Sure, i wouldnt call it complex just highly time consuming. You can either produce a mid engined affair ala clio v6 with the engine in the boot and basically transplating the front end of the donor vehicle, using subframe, fabricate some turrets, lock the track rods and ideally make beefier...

hard ass rat motor. What make are the wheels?

ideally, and in most cases. If your car is running spot on and you install a modified manifold, it will change the AFR on peak load.

approx 75 deg ATDC

checked your fueling?

not plug and play i'm afraid.

Cant have a discussion with joe, you can either whole heartedly agree and not talk, or disagree...........and the story begins ;)

When you run the DTA just splice it into the std loom. The vvt solenoid (neither a sensor or phaser to be a pedant) is supplied a continuous 12v and the ecu just drops the earth to it, so use a negative switch option on your DTA. Switching parameters will depend if your running plenham...

cant even see any skid marks or marks on the grass!

30nm, then 51 deg, wait a few mins, loosen 1+2, retorque to 25nm, then 108 deg, then loosen and repeat for the rest.

Dont have one for the DTA sorry.