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Part of it, but we just dont have the valve area or port design. We have basically zero short side, no flat floor, great quench but shrouding, poor valve seat design and geometry. Its good for a renault, i guess thats the best way to put it.

With a mild build consisting of bodies, cams (of durations you specified), manifold and std long block. I would put the F4 at about 225-230 and the F7 at 200-210. All out, you'll max the F7 at about 280-290 and the F4 at a tad over 300, but just remember it takes a SERIOUS amount of work to...

THere is a miss match, its not quite the same thing as the casting ends there and its not always machined flat. But the whole inlet track should be modified from plenham to head.

F4R breathes better in std trim, F7 wont touch it. Bottom ends are basically the same, pathetic piston design (5cc dish), but the F4 is manufactured better. There are plenty of forged parts, but none of them i rate high enough to bother talking about....apart from arrow and carillo rods...

they are already shrouded

Its a diferent league, a std honda head basically flows more than a well done renault. The K20A head can suport a 2.7ltr bottom end, the renault cannot. The K20 is a brand new engine, the F4R is an evolution of renault thought.

We'll never reach bike technology/level.......we just cant build them as tall as you, the K20a is already overly tall ;) plus you only have to tug round 12 ounces of fuel and 45g of chassis. lol

They have probably one of the best 16v heads in present and past production, couple that with better bottom end geometry, stronger components and better all round design, allowing a higher rpm threshold, which again allows you to run more cam and make more power.....which is where the benefits...

its also my reccomendation to change it AFTER.........oil gets seriously abused on track....and if your good, you can kill it. Who wants to drive the next 3000 miles on butter?

sexy aswell.

yet the 206 boys hate them

the 'best' manifold depends entierly on your engine specification and the rpm region it spends 90% of its time. So there is no saying a 4-1 or a 4-2-1 manifold is best, you just cannot quantify that. However, if your using the factory available items, then the 182's 4-2-1 manifold is better...

George, your pretty much spot on with all your ideas, the clio is no mean any different from your average FWD hatch and the setups that many like to use as a base and move on from. Mike, listen to george, he knows what he's talking about.

yea, its just an extra load version of the PE2 which is commonly available.

circa 320bhp from a 2.2 in the K24 tall deck block and radically altered geometry on a relatively mild build with a stock head!

Ignition timing is a tricky game, its much much more complex than fueling as thats simply a case of more of less, withing the start/stop perameters you dictate. The old skool and relatively useless method of advancing till you pink (dont even get near det, true det or auto ignition will...

that is what a leak test is for lol.

craig, just get your ass in so we can finish it off properly lol.

check for an air leak and do a leakdown test. When stripping a plug and helicoiling, its a wonderful world of mystery as to where swarf can get....and you dont want it inside, and especially not on a valve seat.

yup, they are very accuratelt made steel gaskets, none of this paper crap, so they are stamped. They are slightly bigger than the ports, but this is why i leave a 20 thou smaller step so people fitting it, or anomaly ports dont introduce a leading edge step.

gasket lined up, blued, and a scribe to scratch the blue area.

its cool, got your pm ;) running stock is gay, but when do we find time to even change our stock air filters....or get the tracking done lol

11-11.2 no worries

depends if you consider removing the camshafts a big job as they have to come out. THen you clean the tappets, get a block of wood, slap them onto the wood to knock out the centre piston, give it a proper clean inside and the valves, prime,put it back together, then install......in short terms.

RT's can be adjusted yes.

Just for future information, i work very very slowly when dead ross. Mark, website is so hard to write content for without going off on a rant like i normally do, structure and not putting people to sleep is key, but so is providing information. Maybe i should get another website...

nah, you can strip and clean them. dont have to but new ones unless they are broken.

Tim, if you dont mind me asking. Who do you work for?

oh, and dont forget your K&N and decat.

oh, and early heads are better than latter. Latter ones are based on a different casting with mucho smaller exhaust ports with no cnc'ing that flow about 20cfm less. CNC programs differ for batches of heads, so they tend to flow a little different between batches, and some have worse shift in...