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cheap, go for it.

Dont bother with an uprated, expsensive clutch, will give you nowt except a better clamp for standing starts.

YAY! i dont have to! hope your right lol.

LMAO!!! AUTOCAD!!! you really area intent on finding out how it works......simple, you really dont need autocad to visualise it. Just remember that the bolt moves the bottom bolt hole against the top hole which acts as its pivot. THe Hub then moves relative to the strut support assembly...

a bearing will whine all the way at all speeds, and turning one way generally makes the noise stop, and the other louder.

Yup, GDI is the man to call if you want quality work.

The gains from the TB alone are not massive, but couples with a cam, aproperly done head, matched manifolds and a chip...120bhp is within easy reach. When swapping (whats going on with my text?) TBs you need to enlarge and match the bore size to the larger 1.8 lag TB. This means a slight...

lame as

ill get back to ya tomoz. IM ON HOLIDAY!!!!!!!!!

same

thats the part number for the kit from Ren

do a search, done a million times.

rich, yours is MPI and a better starting point, send the manifold along to get worked with the head.

the centre is offset.

nope. Better than several variations of the dastek, more user friendly, more sophisticated and can do just about anything you need within reason. PM andy GDI, he sells, fits and maps them.

Like i said, PM me......id have to cost it up and there would be development needed primarily for manifold design.

Screw it, go for the SMT6

no, doesnt have to be perfectly perfect. Get a straight edged peice of wood, stick a protractor at 90 deg to that edge, nail through the centre of the protractor, string on nail, weight on end of stright, gravity will tell you straight down and the protractor will tell you the amount of...

with you 100%, if you can get teh job done for 35 quid, stuff nearly 200 quid for junk thats noisy.

YOu can check it yourself with a camber gauge. You can make one yourself with a peice of string, weight, straight peice of wood and a protractor. Then just adjust it as it wont affect any other geometry variables.

Just get a new DS from GSF, eurocarparts etc, 50 quid exchange and its much faster than swapping a gaitor.

yup, bingo bango

Demon tweeks and rally design sell loads of bias valves. Either the valve or the compensator, doesnt really matter.

NO need to spend that sort of money on management alone, especially when the engine isnt exotic.

C57D

Almost a straight swap......... Its such a crude method though!

If your getting an M800 then junk the plenham setup and run ITBs.

IF its all apart just get it chemically cleaned or vapour blasted.

THe one in Hove?

not much help then lol. Cant help you unless you help us