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the speedo sender is on the back of the speedo dail, dash top needs to come off.

18k isnt new. I dont work with the 1.2 since they were never sold at my dealers in HK, so maybe they naturally burn alot of oil, but it seems excessive for a small capacity low output engine.

yup, you can get them from halfords anyway i think. instructions for cleaning should be on it but go along the lines of: - apply cleaning soltion, rub gently with soft brush, leave to work. - rinse with water, not high pressure water or itll ruin the cotton. - apply filtering oil as per...

yea, its fine.

10ltrs! tad much mines uses about 1ltr ever 2k or so, but alot get burnt in the vapour system on valvers with the bore sprays.

std rear height?

Livio, squeeling is usually, on a hard compound, caused by the pad vibrating, but since your pad isnt that hard i would look at means to solving it or reducing it. Rd pads squeel when not aligned properly and vibrates, and this typically means the front of the pad is touching before the rear...

tip ~ use 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gears

Whos the really ugly dood? ;) (no seriously)

convet to injection!

since your moving and it happens id have a look at your speedo sender along with the ICV.

the 16V had flanges 19 deg to eachother, the willy has a smaller angle. length, i dunno.

77 00 855 719 SENSOR LEAD HT 26.20 ---3 x 1

MK1 172: Plenham - 77 00 114 654 REPARTITEUR ADMIS 414.00 ---3 x 1 Manifold - 82 00 133 648 CALE ADMISSION 107.00 ---3 x 1 MK2 172: Plenham - 77 00 114 654 REPARTITEUR ADMIS 414.00 ---3 x 1 Manifold - 82 00 133 648 CALE ADMISSION 107.00 ---3 x 1 CUP: Plenham...

are those megane valves? clean job!

you start with the furthest caliper away, just makes sure no air gets passed of from other lines or gets stuck.

A strut bar that doesnt physically locate firmly to the strut towes is useless and for cosmetic purposes only, unless that is what your looking for.

get down on your hands and knees and see if they are stickers.

All pressures at 80C 1 bar at idle 3 bar at 3500rpm But average running temps are closer or over 100 deg and oil pressure fluctuates between cars. So long as you have some pressure showing then its usually fine. Grade, temp and viscosity greatly affects the pressure. And you can drive...

oh soz, thought you were talking to somebody else???? dunno Conversion would be straight forward enough and just up you to 2ltr spec. Depending what you would want to do whilst the engine is out. 2ltr 8v would be torquey yup. seems like a nice simple conversion

got a pic?

wha~?

hows does your existing pipe go, where etc etc?

simple unscrew the old and screw in the new and plug up. Its ont he front of the head on the thermo housing.

much better in what way? I dont want a big ol ram pipe sticking out the front grille lol. And the gain in flow is non existent, so long as its infront of the rad its fine.

http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/322000-322999/322115_77_full.jpg http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/10/web/322000-322999/322115_76_full.jpg

the NGK plus are fine, and the heat range is correct, although some will argue over the 7 and 6 range for willys and 16vs. But i stick to NGKs (their specific heat ranges are wider) and the 2 electrode is the norm on these engines. The plugs shouldnt be causing your running problem. Check...

bingo bango.

erm, its gonna be TIGHT! i wouldnt like to try it.

The difference is where they are located, CTS sensors depending on teh age of the casting go into the cylinder head direct or into the thermo housing.