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TOtally depends on how much you are willing to spend. A few hundred quid won get you very far in terms of new components and work done. My cylinder heads cost 450 quid and PM me for details if interested. Cams depending on profile cost either under 200 quid or over 400 quid from blanks...

And again, i restate that to properly run in an engine you need to apply a full load situatuation. What you are doing primarily is trying to bed in the rings and wear in the bearins. The rings wont bed properly unless given some stick since they rely on gas pressure from combustion to seal them...

77 00 805 017 PUMP PAS 166.00 ---3 x 1 and the reseviour is L shaped.

yup, ap racing

N20 wont break your engine so long as you set it up correctly and dont do silly things with it. Of which ive written before so you can search it up, or i can help again when you get to actually doing it. The box is fine

your biting point will move higher and higer up the pedal movement.

I dont have the answer off the top of my head, but you can check yourself. Get the 172 cup track, and your track, minus yours from the 172 cup track and yo have your difference. Now the offset on the cup wheels is 38 as opposed to 48 on the 172. SO thats an extra 20mm simply from offset...

that totally depends how far you want to move them out then doesnt it. And yes the arches are flared.

So long as you specify the correct offset used ont eh cups (38) then you wont need spacers.

Blimey Mark, is that your mate that thinks your Michael jackson!

stop dreaming, you know you only do men!

If its a leak keep it parked on a clean surface and check for signs of a leak in the morning.

just Koni rears or the full car?

most male.....its easy. Does your rod end have a thread comming out of it, or going into it.

If your doing it yourself, put aside a day as you need ot get the bearing pressed in, its fiddly and some parts can get stuck and annoy you like bottom ball joint and rod end. The bearing from Ren is 77 01 205 779 WHL BRG FRONT KO 44.00 ---3 x 1 The Gen Ren ones are higer...

if your getting cup wheels then you wont need spacers as the ET is already 10 less so youll get your 20mm gain in track without spacers.

Were the engines tested from cold or run just before? Use a compression tester and check the compression values as per normal, then stick a teaspoon amount of oil down the plug hole and check again. If pressure rises its the rings, if it dont its either the gasket or your valves.

They are self adjusting, no need to bother with them.

Not a fan of mobil 1 motorsport, and castrols ok but not a major fan of that either......but both will be more than adequate. Just pop into yer local Ren and pickup some semi synth Elf competition 10w40 or 15w50......still a ta nippy so 10w40 might be better.

striaght swap.

well if its only the cylinder head and the bottom end wasnt touched, off ya go!

Fronts about 30 quid for decent stuff, and same-ish again for the rears. Just pop down your local halfords, the ferodo pads there are more than adequete for road use, and ive used them on track aswell. Perfectly fine. You really dont need anything more.

100 miles is already over the main period for the majority of ring break-in. What you need to do now is (assuming its on mineral oil, but andy probably sorted this) drive through all rpm ranges with all throttle positions. THe rings wont seal against the bores if you pootle about on part...

Yup, using a strut like that would totally remove any of the std flex built into the rubber top mounts. The cup cars use a different subframe, aapted laguna hubs and struts and brakes, so its is very different.

the plug jsut pulls off after you lift the tab. Check the speedo sender, if the engine gets incorrect speed info it really confuses it and is typically the cause. Try hold rpm at 2000rpm, if its not steady and keeps fluctuating, its probaly that.

that old shed!!!! ;)

Yup, the V6 ones will not fit

I thought you were some sooper buff jockster, well, the way you talk about the gym and diet and stuff all the time.

If you dont push the engine hard enoug during the first few miles then the rings will never seal properly and that will lead to a loss of power and blowby. When running it in you should put full load on the engine. WHy, because the rings use gas pressure from combustion to press them againt...

sounds like the ICV, built into thr TB iirc