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Ideally remove it and clean it off the car. Spray the valve and spindle with carb cleaner and then re lubricate it and wipe excess oil. It might be the throttle cable that's the problem and would need replacing. I've done this fix many times and it worked for awhile. Eventually I bought a new...

I'll look out for one of those next time I'm in the tool shop, I need a shorter breaker bar anyway.

It was a new tensioner, but I guess so. Unless I can find something else to use it's the jubilee clip - I might be able to get onto it though using a 3/8 sump plug.

Getting the angle right is the key - make it lower on the gearbox side.

Anyone else using this tool: Lisle Ratcheting Serpentine Belt Tool? The tool I had with an angled long handle and 3/8 socket welded on has snapped breaking the tensioner, too...

I thought I'd Post this so people can see easily how you can contact us: Contact through any of these sources and I'll get back to you as soon as I have a free minute. Pm me on here. (Anytime) Phone: 07969 124504(Between 0800-2300) Email: sjmautomotiveltd@gmail.com Facebook...

Give him a call on his mobile.

If you've got an RS2, J then you fully understand the cost needed to get better power. RS2 isn't cheap. I understand, I think what the OP is saying, the mods fitted do very little.

You're going about this the wrong way if you want power like 200 HP. Don't waste time posting here get the right advice by speaking directly to people who know these cars well. Dan at SJM and Paul who you have spoken too plus a few others (Chip Mk1 was a good source of information so search for...

In a Clio you always win against exotica (they'd run out of fuel sooner!). Having said that I manage single figure consumption on track.

Thanks, I don't believe it's a dephaser sort of noise myself and that was replaced by Fred the Great relatively recently. No, it's something else I think. I'm taking the engine out anyway soon to replace the gearbox, sump gasket and water pump gasket. I just hope it isn't as important as a loose...

I think there's too much background noise on a video so I'll take it over to Dan to have a listen.

Sorry, I'll try another option. I will upload it via Photobucket.

Any ideas what is causing this unusual noise - it's a rattly RS engine unfortunately but you can just make out the other noise? I thought it was coming from the VVT switch area but now it sounds louder at the front. Definitely not right. https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100004370266158

The thinking is that this could be either one of the timing belt rollers that's worked lose or cam journal wear. Any expert views? The noise is coming from the area under the solenoid switch.

My Ph1 has developed a noise under the dephaser solenoid switch. It doesn't stop if I unplug it. It sounds like a pigeon at rest to me! I'm wondering if it might be cam related? I took the top mount off and it isn't the dephaser, it's something under the solenoid if not the valve itself. Any...

OP, buy an exchange shaft from Renault, try Adam at Renault Wolverhampton (his details are in the trader section). That way you'll get the correct one. The ABS and SERV light is probably the wires under the driver's seat (very common problem do a search and easy to fix with a cable tie). You can...

Complete rubbish, bin it. I'd be comparing prices for new from Pirtek (who might make one up for you) and from Adam at Renault Wolvo. That's going to go west just like the old one, waste of time fitting it.

Just remember to get the forty something versions and not the twenty something toothed versions.

Line it up against fifth gear = sorted. Don't undue it in the wrong place as above^^^^ (bit late for that though I know...)

I'm in Chippenham, too and if I need something doing I go to Dan in Glastonbury, he's a trader on here. I do most things myself though (except timing belts!). Dan's a specialist for these cars. Go anywhere else and take the risk IMO.

I've always thought when looking at it that the section of pipe that is under the airfilter and bolted to the front gearbox mount looks a bit vulnerable. I'd take a look there first. After that check where it passes over the gearbox (difficult to see without using a mirror).

If I was you to satisfy the temptation, go and drive it (assuming it has the original suspension, if not then find one a real one and test drive that). Then see if it's worth the extra money.

Renaultsport Clios all splutter when cold and even sound rough on idle. Take it to a specialist for advice on the leak. It might be ok if you're lucky then wait until the next cam belt change and get it resealed - that's what I did and mine had leaked for a few years.

Play at the base of the gear lever?

It's 14 years old and in all probability it has now worn out. I have tried all the fixes including the circlip replacement, cleaning and oiling, and I also got five second hand ones to see if they were any better. After two years of messing about I bought a new one and life was sweet again...

You can get a decat made to any length just take all the system with you to someone like Charlie at ProSpeed.

They cost a tenner plus postage and you need the 44 teeth version for all the 172/182s. They're easy to fit as long as you can get the hub nut off and I found it was best to start to remove the old one before removing the drive shaft etc.

I wouldn't do this because it isn't the right way to lock it all up. What about Michael Woodford Motorsport over in Staines, I got my remap via them.

By valve I think you mean the sensor on the steering pump, right? When my sensor failed it didn't make the belt squeal, it caused the revs to drop and the engine would stall. If Renault didn't supply a full kit with an idler I'd be wondering if the rest of it was right, is the belt the right...