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Two Clios in convoy I think, on the bypass - would like to know what the rusty bonnet one has had done to it (clearly had some extra mid range and top end!).:D
I don't think either of them sounds right for you, the Ph1 is 14 years old and will require lots of work to keep it going and the Williams is now an antique! You'd be better off buying a 182 for that money so you can just service it and wash it.
I only went on Sunday (it cost a tenner) and I spent 4 hours looking at retro Renaults and talking to other car owners including the car owners from Brussels and Holland. It was great.
CS admin should let Castle Combe what needs to change based on what's been said.
I have orange pads (up from blues) on my Impreza at the front and they have helped the braking performance significantly. The Subaru is a car with shockingly poor standard brakes even on the STi caliper setup that mine came with.
Re: perfomance
Driving the RS Clio fast is all down to the driver, gear changes, throttle position etc I believe. So any changes you notice will be because you are driving it slightly differently one day to the next. Compared to my Subaru which always feels fast (and is therefore possibly an...
There is an easier way but I'm afraid it is to fit a new cable when the engine is out (you can just sit comfortably in the engine bay and see it all straight in front of you!). You need to fit a genuine Renault cable in my experience as factor parts when I used one meant I couldn't change gear...
I thought about selling my 172 Ph1 which I've owned for eight years, but I will most probably keep it as it gives me an alternative to my Impreza in terms mostly of better fuel consumption. Even though my Ph1 has been improved to something respectable (I'm waiting for the new Surrey Rolling Road...
It's below the throttle body on the engine block with wires attached obviously - to test if you've found it, unscrew and see if coolant comes out (do it when the engine is cold).
I've also been to see some dogs for sale by members on here. At least being a member means to you can check their previous posts and find out a little about what's wrong with their car! With these cars (172s/182s) they are old now so expect many bad ones before you find one that's ok.
They'll sell just fine if they're right. The German source I mentioned was the OEM supplier to Renault. I think I bought four second hand ones all in all. Mine now drives like it did when it was three years old when I bought it - with a new one (same as the headlights that were hopeless even...
I went down that road two years ago and I hope it works out for you. What arrived wasn't a Ph1 throttle body so it went back on the ferry to Germany where ECP had sourced it. All credit to the person at ECP for trying though.
The idle is rough on these, worry it sounds rough when revved. Keep it standard or fit neon lights (they'll add as much extra power as all the other bits you'll read about ((bar cams, turbos etc which are quite big £s)) ).
Give him a call. Not always easy to get hold of him though, he's a busy man. What you might be able to get from him is a TB from the older Cup racers. Don't get excited about this, there is no power gain it's just a throttle body. It may not have the breather pipe from the manifold either, but...
^^^^^^ This, cheaper than ECP.
After five damn years of dim rubbish lights it's brilliant again. Tried the refurb option, waste of a whole weekend (just like trying to fix aPh1 throttle body, just buy it new).
If you do change the lights make sure to fix the auto levelling motor in correctly...
My clutch lasted 120,000 miles and with track events and when it did come out it was still fine!
Doing it all in-situ is a hassle (so pay Dan!) or take the engine out (needs more than limited tools though).
Change the cable first if it squeaks (not easy but is possible - getting a cable...
If the cable is not the genuine renault part for your Ph1 then that's the issue. This is an old problem that has been covered 100s of times. Action is, 1. Clean it and lubricate. If that doesn't work, change the cable. If that doesn't work buy one for a tenner from Ebay (you might be lucky!). If...
It's not easy to find a good 172 Cup. They're old cars. I looked two years ago at five so called good examples and they were all a pile of c*ap. 3k is about 1k too much even for a decent 10-11 year old RS Clio. I'd look instead for a proper 182 Cup for 3k.
The fob should slide apart - take any ring off it. On mine when this happened I had to replace the motorised lock which had stopped working. It cost £10 for a second hand one.
Test the engine's power on a reliable rolling road before doing anything else, that's what I did. Assuming it is std and it makes about 165 hp it's fine, mine was on 159 so I bought another engine. It cost £40 to test it at Surrey RR.
If I had a free choice for a w/e version (I don't I already own a Ph1) it would be a Trophy. By the way, they all have the same power as it's the weight of the car that has changed with model versions (i.e. a 172 has the same power as a 197). Buy any of them as long as it's in an alright condition.
EVO magazine covered the Ph1 as a good used car buy a few years ago and linked their story to this forum. But even then they weren't totally accurate on some matters so I guess it takes a lot of work to get it right.
Mine's 14 years old this year and over 200,000 miles. What do I replace it with, I ask myself? Unless I develop deep pockets I can't see other cars I'd really want (newer cars are full of stuff and gadgets that I don't want).
Enjoy. I never wanted an impreza, but it was the only good car in 10 cars that I viewed when I needed something quickly, cheap and fun when the clio was being rebuilt. I'll never sell it, such a great drive. As std it was pretty good and with a little fettling about for extra ponies it's just...