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Ive got a adjustable pullie with my piper cam on my Fiesta RS Turbo.
Runs a little lumpy plus the timing could do with adjusting for optimum performance.
How do u get this done? Does it hav to be rolling roaded?
Does running more boost pressure put the timing out of tune again?
Thanx
In no order:
Clio Williams/16v
Civic Type R
Fiesta RS Turbo
Renault 5 GT Turbo
1st: Nissan Pulsar - WOW
All small hot hatchs, not including the larger Escort Cosworth or Integra type cars.
I wouldnt pay more than 5.5k for any Williams though. FSH and reciepts with under 80k & ur laughing.
I jus cant c those people selling Willys for much over 6k getting anywhere near it! :o
If uv got the cash waiting ull see a sensible 1 come up, jus a matter of time m8.
Some1s told me that amarite paint can come off the drum due to heat!
If so, any1 tried this, whats the best paint to use?
Should u use sand paper to sand the rust off the drum b4 painting?
Thanx
Soft is anti-clockwise then?
Can i use pliers on the front little adjustable bit?
Clio16vPaul: I dont understand this;
push it in, turn the head of the shock to adjust (1,2,3) and then let the button pop out, you should then be able to turn the shock head qo line up wit the car again...
I need to know about how best to adjust them.
Ive heard its on a scale of 10. Does this mean the screw on the top mount will click 10 times in either clockwise or anti-clockwise?
Any1 with these shocks care to help? Thanx
Chris any other thoughts as the car wont even start! The starter motor will turn over but no life in the engine. :cry:
Just the ticking with the electrics on.
Hey, managed to get them from B&Q luckerly. Just for my turbo hard pipe, but it wasnt even the thread on the nut that was knackered, it is the thread in the hole (on top of rocker cover)! :cry:
I sold my Clio 16v to look for a turbo. Got a FRST cause i didnt want a French car again.
Main reason i made the move was u can mod a turbo car easirly and cheaply to get big power gains, however everything that makes a 16v get noticably quicker costs a fortune.
Eg. 16v cams: £600 Power...
It is but its been in the garage for a year & the guy i bought it off works for Volvo and re-built the top end.
Must be some sensor or wiring problem or something... ... ... :cry:
Ive done around 250 miles in it with no other trouble apart from having to fit a new alternator.
Ok, my FRST was running fine when it seemed to mis-fire so it juddered while travelling at low revs then it gradually got worse & 3 minutes later the revs r moving up and down from 600 to 2k rpm when stationary. :cry:
Swaped my ignition leads (correctly BTW), put the electrics on by turning...
No reciept so how can i find out?
Do you reckon my nearest Clifford alarm fitter can fix it and issue me a certificate? Some1 else must have overcome this. Thanx.
Ive just bought a FRST with a CAT1 Clifford Alarm & Immobiliser but has no certificate with it. How do i aquire 1? Plus it sounds after 20 seconds of arming so needs looking at/fixing first.
Im in Manchester. ANY 1 HELP ME? :cry:
Sounds like papas got the real reason, but then again a V-Tec is known for late power delivery. Could be down to the fact that it revs to 8k is it? & when leathering it, it can keep in V-Tec mode continuously, however round bends this would be more difficult to do. Better built Honda engine...
Lifted from Adis car spec:
Engine: 1,998cc F16i.e. twin-cam 16v running on mobil 1 motorsport 15w-50 fully synthetic oil. Converted by Hillpower in winter 2001/02 using a 19,000 mile block from a 1998 megane 2.0 16v. Complete with Gas flowed head with matching intake and exhaust manifolds...
Yeah it feels like the wider tyres will follow any slope or bump in the road and makes it feel more squatted whereas the 185s give the more relaxed feel if that makes sense. :confused:
I preferred 185s.