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Depends exactly how must belt drive zaps performance in the real world. With your set up, bar a idler its pretty much the same b/track as the normal AC set up. Other downside is the tensioner is still utilised so no ease of belt changes like you get with the Cup set up plus you would still...

Ah right i see. Guessing the main reason why you have to use this particular tool due to the aux crank pully being free floating?

I was only asking why it was needed, not questioning it..

What importance is the cam pulley locking tool ? Is this only needed when the cams have been undone? If the cranks locked at tdc and the cams are aligned in position with the D or a straight bar where does the camshaft pulley tool come into it? :S

Sure less belt drag would be more of a advantage than the 15 odd kgs you'd save in weight. Wait till your alternator packs up then the ''proper'' conversion will only cost roughly 20 quid ;)

But it still runs round the same half a dozen pulleys plus uses the tensioner. :S The only advantage is going to be weight saving. For the sake of 100 quid do it right

More to it than that surely. How did he get the tension on the belt? You need some kind of bracket. Factory way as Matty said. Just over 100 quid and its done right

Just a guess but i would say a bit over the cost of a typical auxiliary belt change.

Same boat as me mate although nearly double the mileage. Best starting point is a leak down or compression test.

Thats more expensive than Reanult !! lol Paid £10 on the nose a month back from a main dealer

Isn't the easiest and cheaper way a 197 head conversion?

Best way to get rid of the light is a bit of insulating tape behind the instrument panel.

Nothing wrong with Vipers as long as the cold air feed isn't connected. Fatal if it is.. Also as said further up, get it mapped to suit. Waste of time bolting on breathing mods if your not going to get the fueling properly set up

Honest company. Just not very honest with the power claims lol

If your thinking of buying one don't. Game has moved on ten fold since these came out. I used to have one about 5 years ago. They weigh a tonne, spoil the look making it look chavy and drone like mad at motorway cruising speeds, 70 / 80mph.

Sorry to crash the thread but you know in your first picture, did you get the Recaro alcantara center's made to match the V6 door cards ? Looks a real good match for the Renault trim.

Got it mate, thanks :cool:

Managed to get the shaft in and ball joint bolted up. Out of interest, when a car is jacked up out of gear and you turn a wheel is it normal for a delay ie, can move the wheel say a bit to the left or right before the diff turns the other wheel? ...or does this show wear in the shaft roller...

Been attempting to do the lower ball joint. Turned the wheel to gain access to the bolts and the drive shaft popped out. After trying to get it back in iv now got split CV gates and box oil everywhere :mad: My question is, got the drive shaft back in but cant seem to line up the two lower ball...

Been attempting to do the lower ball joint. Turned the wheel to gain access to the bolts and the drive shaft popped out. After trying to get it back in iv now got split CV gates and box oil everywhere :mad: My question is, got the drive shaft back in but cant seem to line up the two lower ball...

Thats all it uses on the ph1, just one bolt on the slam. Its plenty strong enough, its won't go anywhere ;)

Its a tight fit but you can't really fit it wrong as such. Just make sure its not rubbing on the coolant pipes and is bolted tight up against the front slam. Might be worth getting the AFR checked to make sure its not leaning off a bit and to get the best from it.

Just ignore the slots on the cam ends. Tipex is the way forwards lol

Just go over sized pistons and bore it out then you know you have nice fresh bores suited to your pistons.

Cosworths and Scooby's have stronger pistons to start with being already turbo. Try TSR for the pistons

Remember seeing that. IIRC sure people on here didnt originally rate it ? Bit like the dephaser thing. They never used to be a problem till about 2 years ago now its a must change part at every opportunity. New breed of forum sheep thats what it is lol

Sure it tells you in the handbook about the light sequence faults. Could be the lambda ?

The amount of them which are getting broken up or tracked, prices will eventually rise as they become sought after. Just over 1200 official Renault cars. Bet their isnt half of those left on the road now

Because if it wears through you have to mess about re-welding it on rather than unbolting - Looking at it a second time it maybe looks banded on

Looks like you bought a badly looked after example. Bit harsh to blame its manufacture origins for that