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Not the best image, but these are produced by Will Di Claudio at W-A-S Racing near Bristol.

What size wheels are you running, because if you are on 16s, you must be hitting around 140mph if you’re flat in 5th.

Thanks Neil. They say every day is a school day and today certainly was! 😁

I have got this which came with a motor and Omex 600 which was piggybacked onto the original Clio loom. I believe that it is a knock sensor, but could be totally wrong. It can be yours for the cost of the postage if you think it might help.

I loved my RC8s, even if the “grabbyness” was a bit of an issue to start with, but you do need to keep an eye on them, because mine disintegrated after 1 qually and 1 race!

Another vote for the GP5W. Looks good with a bit of paint on it as well. As for noise, whilst I have always had Arais, they are noisy and I have always worn earplugs on bikes and in my Radical. Doesn’t really matter in the Clio, because there isn’t any wind noise.

Nick built the unit and I installed it before taking it back down for Sandy Brown to map it. I think we ran about 50 litres of fuel through it before he declared himself satisfied with everything and having arrived at 9am, I left at 5.30pm, so the unit is well run in now and basically just needs...

Photos of my car aren’t deceiving, it looks scruffy and needs some tlc! I’m at Donington the same day, for a first run in the car after installing a new PMS unit, so hopefully I will be ready for the season in Castle Combe Hot Hatch and an occasional run out with the WSSCC. It needs to go well...

Hi Rob. Car is looking nice and shiny, so where are you testing on 22 March?

Having raced a Radical for a few years, we never had any more fuel in the car than we needed, so after each race or session, all the fuel was pumped out (sometimes as little as half a litre!) and just the right amount of fuel added for the next race, so my Clio has a dry break on the fuel rail...

Balance yes, but lightening the crank is a recipe for disaster as you could end up releasing all sorts of manufacturing stresses. As mentioned above, bolt the flywheel to the crank and the clutch cover to the flywheel and then get it balanced. I was absolutely gobsmacked at the amount of...

I’ve got an Omex custom loom, which just runs the unit with ITBs. I bought the unit complete with the loom, which was originally piggy backed onto the stock ecu, but when the race team fitted the unit, they cut the original looms out and threw them in the bin!

I run an Omex 600 in my race car. Anything else I need (fuel pump, brake lights, rain light, wiper and headlights) are wired separately.

Engine on a stand, trainers on feet, pry bars behind dephaser pulley. When whatever was stopping it coming free gave in, the pulley dropped straight onto my little toe, which is now much larger than it used to be!!

Thanks guys. A little bit of persuasion with some pry bars made it give up its attachment to the camshaft, but provided a stark reminder that wearing safety shoes in the workshop is a good idea. I wasn’t!!

I have removed the cap and bolt from the dephaser pulley and it is loose and spins freely, but despite being able to move it forward slightly, it then jams and won’t come away from the camshaft. Is there something I’m doing wrong, or should I revert to brute force?

A curse on BMW for stealing my design! (Or was it the other way round?)

Thanks Alex. The car is a race car, so time on track is dictated by the race length and the discs will get checked and changed several times during the season, so really are consumables. It’s come to something when replacement discs are a fraction of the price of pads!

How did you get on with the DS1.11s and how did you get them bedded in? It seems like you need to get them unbelievably hot as part of the bedding in!

Yes. No reason at all why the front and rear tyres can’t be different. As we know, the rear tyres are pretty much passengers on Clios, so providing they make the rear follow the front and give a decent balance, they can be different makes or sizes. Main issue would be not being able to transfer...

My races are 20 minutes. Getting the rears to come in quickly is very important, because reversing into the barriers at Quarry (Castle Combe) or disappearing backwards down the escape road at the hairpin (Pembrey) on the first lap is never good! 20 minutes is unlikely to result in any serious...

Rich If the 15” ZZRs had the same tread pattern as the 13”, I think that they would be perfect, but the 15s didn’t feel as stable as the old 888s on my mate’s Westfield Race car, so I have almost ruled them out. Maybe if they were shaved it might be different.

I’ve been away from racing my Clio for a couple of years and wondered which list 1C tyres are the current favourites?

Other than the response from Jackson on how to disable the central locking, unfortunately not!

I had a 250 cup after getting rid of my GT3 due to HMRC wanting some money! A trip to RS in Leeds, a Forge intercooler and Miltec system later and I had 325 bhp and a proper fun car. Only issue was overheating brakes on track (with RC5s), but that was manageable. Frankly it was one of the best...

I should be racing at Castle Combe in the Saloons today, but despite the car running perfectly on Friday evening, on Saturday morning it wouldn't start. It seems to have immobilised itself, but unlike previous occasions, this time it won't even turn over on the starter. I tried all the...

I need to connect my Cartek Isolator to cut the ignition. Since the dashboard is out at the moment and the isolator is inside the car, the simplest method seems to be to cut the cable near the ignition switch a connect the Cartek there. The question is, which cable? Any help gratefully received.

Hi Christopher Can you let me know who and where the chap in Bristol is, because I need some wheels sorting?

I'm planning to remove the steering column lock and route the ignition and starter cables to switches in a new panel where the radio once lived. I also want to disable the auto locking system when I drive off. Any tips gratefully received.

Is there any reason why I can't remove one of the 4 bolts from my rollcage and replace it with an eye bolt for the lap strap on my harness? It all needs to be MSA compliant.