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Cams and TB's will be about 210 - 230 maybe? for what, 3.5k all fitted and mapped area?
4k to supercharge and that gets you 250 brake with potential too boot.
Dont bother with cams and TB's in combo.
For the total cash of these you could just about have a supercharger conversion kicking out 250 bhp with the potential for silly power
Iv run Apex / Koni combo for years and think their fine for road use. Not as harsh a ride as their made out to be and certainly not ''shocking''. They are what they are though, budget end springs that give a decent drop.
Back on topic, iv run aftermarket 15'' et35 wheels without rubbing in...
Non 16v is pretty much the same, 0. difference here and there thats it
Just because you take it to be serviced twice a year dosent mean theres no problems. That figure you quoted is not right. Maybe your trip computers out ?
Only way to do a accurate mpg test is to calculate manually. Have...
You must have a problem with the car because that mpg figure for a 1.2 isnt right?
Should be more like 40's to 45mpg average figure.
Could be a lambda problem? low tyre pressures, blowing exhaust...etc etc
Because Magnex weigh about 5 tonnes, sag the mounts and the tailpipe designs are gash.
Scorpion, no experience so cant comment but not many folk use either brands now.
Eibach.
Better for peace of mind to run longer wheel bolts too imo from say Pri racing. Theres a few threads on here, somewhere with all the details like what bolt size to use, comparing against stock size etc I just cant remember or id a told you here lol
If you search Pri racing (wheel...
You'd a been better sticking the vids up once its all mapped and running some boost matey.
Gives a false idea of it if you dont read the thread proper lol
Its quite commom to stick 5mm spacers on the ph1's. Brings the foot print bascially up to Cup spec too which improves the handling by a mile plus obviously looks better.
Leave the ph2 tat to the ph2's imo - ;)
Search ''cambelt change'' then add the cost of a dephaser pulley on top. Your talking roughly 5 - 7 hour book time iirc and anything between 4 - 900 quid outlay
Always change the belts. They screw up and its bye bye engine
Hard to get proven as theres no 2 cars the same and very few before and after results but theres plenty of peoples experiences and the general opinion seems to be that it isnt too clever. You can see by the design and where it sits in the bar its crap
Read about these on here and about Honda's responding well to them or something.. but surely theres no way air would get a chance to heat up through a inlet or TB when a car is in forward motion? :S - its only when idling or in slow traffic that a engines hot to the touch :S
Where it comes in at it totally irrelevant.
The Renault lights up at the optimum. You set a aftermarket shift light to change at your optimum point.
Its exactly the same principle and end result ie, it lights up you change gear
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/optimum
Optimum, the best or most favorable point.
Renault call it a optimum gear change light and you set a shift light to light up at a optimum point. Its exactly the same idea just worded different.
Loads of different variations but in general, the early ones came with the alloy bonnet and shift light.
Shift light was discontinued on the 2001 (not sure what month) model of ph1.
A circular was sent out to dealers explaining it.
Of course its a shift light
Its just wrote by Renault in a ''political correct way'' as a optimum gear change light so as not to encourage folk to hash it on the road.
Look at the workings of it, its exactly the same as a shift light so whats the difference apart from the wording? nothing...
Stock ones probably alright but might be better changing for longer bolts just for the extra peace of mind. Think Pri Racing, something like that, they sell them cheap. Theres a topic somewhere.