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Sweet. I did see them but wasn't sure if they would be utter tosh. I've read that the inner joint wears; is this on the gearbox or driveshaft side? Don't want to do half a job and end up with the same issue and a lighter wallet.

Been chasing a lumpy idle for a while and was thinking coils or plugs but the car ran fine otherwise, so I did some more research and take it to bits. Turns out that all the rubber seals on the inlet manifold had gone quite brittle and the throttle body O ring was fairly loose in the inlet...

I have a judder when accelerating from 40-60mph or so. No vibration at cruise, engine runs sweetly above and below that speed. I've read that the gearbox end of the driveshaft can wear and cause these symptoms. On inspection, there is fluid weeping from one side of the gearbox... Question...

What about these? Very good price and Vale. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=151095803766 NGK plugs from GSF were BKR6EZ.

I was a bit vague, its the plenum and resonator on the other side of the IM and fitting the whole thing on, with the TB retaining bolts that are inaccessible...

What a terrible, terrible design. As for fitting it on the car... OMG.

Got some NGKs from GSF, they were very cheap but fine for fault finding. I did notice that 2 of the coil retaining bolts aren't tightening up properly, so I'll have to look in to heli-coiling them. The coils that I removed were more than likely the originals. I see that there are grey tops and...

I got a working replacement and swapped over the security chip. Fairly easy job for an auto electrician, or DIY if you're confident with such things.

Fair play. I didn't have success with a V5.5 but as above, it could be a configuration issue. What's wrong with yours?

Happy to give it a go if it's going cheap. Cheers

I ordered a dogbone mounting for my 1.6 Dynamique from Renault and it was a whopping £11.26! Yes, eleven pounds and twenty six pence. Even the parts guy was surprised. Nice. At the time, I asked about the dogbone off a 172 ph.2 and it was about £37+VAT... so I passed on that one. Now, the one...

Renault wanted £6.80+VAT each. What is the NGK part number for OE? I have read in another thread that the 172 spark plugs are recommended for use with a CAT on the 172 - http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?464437-Best-spark-plugs . I have some used 172 plugs in the cupboard, so will...

Get a spare one and swap over the immob chip. Needs to be the same N and V as far as I can tell.

Anyone care to recommend plugs and coils for the k4m? Looking on the bay, OEM sparks are ~£25, Bosch Super 4 £19 and stock NGK, Bosch or Denso are about £14... Coils wise, there are some real cheap ones for £5-10 or Valeo for £17 each... Alternatively, if anyone gas some decent ones...

Having checked out the boards, they are, as far as I can tell, electrically identical for the CL relay, so I decided that as I have another N3 UCH on the way (which has arrived :) and is a V5.2 but an A part number, not a B...) that I would go for gold and see if I could get the V5.5 working...

Yup. I remember reading about a similar issue in a post of yours. If needs be, I'll just find an identical UCH to my original and swap the chip over. Might also copy the chip while it's off, for safe keeping too; new chip is <£10 off eBay if I get stuck.

HG V4.1. This is the higher spec version of the BG.

Sounds like a slightly different problem to mine. If one switch controls it but not the other then I'd be looking at wiring. Replacement door loom is cheap enough secondhand, got to be worth s shot.

So bought an N3 V5.5 and swapped the immobiliser chip over. Car starts and runs and all functions appear to work correctly, which is a result for sure. Only issue is that the key fobs only lock the car and won't unlock it... Tried a couple of the key synchronisation guides with no luck so far...

Re: UCH Clicking Relay - flashing lights - juddering wipers- juddering window - solv Here's a picture of what's underneath the black 4 pin connector. The components around the periphery are the decoupling caps. They are connected to the pins on the connector on one side of the capacitor and...

Clear as mud then LOL. Cheers for the info. B could be basic and H the more advanced version then?

I see that as well as N1, N2, N3, there are also BG and HG versions. Is there a guide as to what features each of these has over the last?

Re: UCH Clicking Relay - flashing lights - juddering wipers- juddering window - solv Update on this. After reading a lot of posts on here about UCH faults, problems with the decoupling capacitors came to my attention. The location of these and the way the fault presented itself all seemed to...

Yup, fully aware of that, thanks. So an N3 V5.5 is a suitable replacement for my N3 V5.2? Cheers

I have an N3 V5.2 UCH and I'm looking to replace it. Can I use any V5 UCH or does it have to be specifically an N3 V5.2? I have seen V5.5 and a few others.

Great thread :) Was interested what a stock non sport would look like on 172 alloys and this has answered my question!

Re: UCH Clicking Relay - flashing lights - juddering wipers- juddering window - solv Assuming everything is working correctly, the relay should click. If not then maybe a bit more explanation of the issue?

It's not terrible but the 172 is a fair bit better so... is there a repair kit available to take some of the slop out?

Re: UCH Clicking Relay - flashing lights - juddering wipers- juddering window - solv So, I did some more research in to the UCH functions. I need to do some more research, ideally with a spare wiring loom but for now, here's my findings:- Looking down at the plug on the board:- Looking...

Re: UCH Clicking Relay - flashing lights - juddering wipers- juddering window - solv Did some testing on the cleaner I've been using and far from it evaporating straight away, it seems to stay around for quite some time. This explains why this has worked as a temporary fix - it's staying...