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Its not really difficult providing you bought discs with abs rings and bearings. Just make sure you have a torque wrench for refitting the hub nut (170Nm iirc)

I still don't get how anyone with the cam and crank locking tools (which seems to be most mechanics I've spoken to) can mess this up!

I'd have said tsohost, who I believe is a sister company of vidahost anyway. But, if you've done the side on wix, you're kinda of stuck there, aren't you? Well, without a bit of bodging, anyway.

I'll take that if only just to keep as a spare. Pm me your details. As for being universal - there are only really two common types of lambda, with the only difference being how they are wired up and the type of plug fitted. It kind of makes sense to sell universal ones if there are lots of...

That graph is handy, thanks. I think I'll give this one a crack - but I wouldn't mind a spare in case it goes tits up. How much would you be asking?

Fortunate. I've just been given an Intermotor Zirconia universal lambda that was originally bought for a 172. I assume these Lambdas are all the same?

Thanks. I guess the voltage readings on the pre-cat lambda (I assume that'd be number 1?) are pretty conclusive, then. Can I just swap pre and post lambdas?

Chuck it in a jug of boiling water - have a look on YouTube :) As for the CTS, anyone that can plug it in to show live data can check its reporting as expected.

If your gauge doesn't reach half way, I'd say it's definitely time to test the thermostat and CTS.

How would you test to make sure?

Thanks, Dan. According OBD, lambda 1 jumps between 0.03v to 0.68-0.74v Lambda 2 sits at a solid 0.74v Although, graphing it after restarting the car gave me this: Fuel trim:

I had an MOT today. The emissions were through the roof. HC: ~350 Co2: 8.5 Lambda: 0.68 What do I need to be looking at? I occasionally get intermittent emissions light with a lambda fault - it usually clears its self and I haven't seen it for a very long time. I've just had the inlet...

I've never noticed it. Not sure you can argue for free, lol.

Get someone to hold it on full lock while you check out aux belt area with a torch. You should be able to see if the aux tensioner is locking up

When jumping, have him leave the key in the ignition (pos 1) for a few minutes first. I seem to get this same starting issue every time I change the alternator (but never when the battery has been left disconnected for days, weirdly)

Just remove it. Or you can have mine for the cost of postage when it comes off at the weekend.

I'd say it sounds like your aux belt tensioner. When was it last changed? I'd avoid using the car until you get to the bottom of it.

Fair enough, if that's the case then it makes sense.

Why do you want to bridge the relay? It's there for a reason. Replace it.

That relay is through hole isn't it? That should be easier to change than a surface mount chip that is likely to be quite delicate, isn't it?

Took the starter to be tested. It is faulty :/ Should have done it in the first place, but I have ordered a new one now!

I'm at a bit of a dead end with my starter. After my last died, I happened to find this. With it looking like there's no where near enough slack to remove and recrimp, I drilled a hole in the remaining corner. My issue is that now the starter is in, it seems to be struggling to turn the...

I know you weren't :) I find the jubilee clip method easier, anyway. I think the last time I changed the alternator, total time was around 25 minutes - got a knack for it now :D

I learnt the hard way about the extension bar thing, so I have no choice but to use a jubilee ;)

The last time I needed a tensioner, the tensioner was £100+ on its own, or it was £60 for the full kit (tensioner, belt and idler). Its not a hard job, even kwikfit would struggle to **** it up. Unless they try using a 3/8 extension bar to hold the tension instead of a proper square bar.

Crimping a new connector on did not solve the connector continuously coming off the starter motor, so I figured I needed to find a better solution. I've added another ring connector to the nut on the solenoid, whilst keeping the normal spade connector for some redundancy, as it'll be a pig to...

It's a great time to chuck a set of cams in for very little extra labour. Probably still looking at an extra £700-900 depending on cams and who maps it.

I'm trying to get more clearance between the top of the wheel and the spring seat. Are the helper springs required? Without the helper springs there, I think there would be a fair bit more clearance. What is their function?

This. There is nothing that is direct fit. Some people have fitted VAG gearboxes, but its quite a task and I'm not sure if anyone has done a six speed one - space is pretty tight!

Spot on. I did have a flick through the thread - I shall have to give it a proper read through now I know the information is there. Thank you!